Run it or rebuild it?

[iTurbo]

Kinda torn right now about what to do with a 2.5L TIII short block I have here. It was rebuilt 10 years ago by a local machine shop and has +.020" Venolia pistons, stock reconditioned rods, and a reconditioned 2.5L crankshaft. New ARP rod bolts and main studs. I took it out of the bag and removed the oil pan and everything looks fine and it appears the right ARP fastener lube was used. It spins freely and is very clean.

It's been sitting in my apartment in a bag pretty much ever since about '05. Never stored in the garage or out of the bag. I would really like to just assemble the rest of it and run it in my white Spirit R/T sometime this year, but the fact that it has sat so long kinda makes me wonder if I should really just tear it down and reassemble it to check the oil clearances, ring gaps, and that everything is properly assembled. That will take some time though..

On the other hand, I could just run it. The last TIII I built had also had the block previously assembled by the same local machine shop. I tore it all apart and reassembled and found no mistakes at all. That engine is still running great today.



Right now I think I will just take my chances and run it.

[iTurbo]

If I do take this thing apart, I'm wondering what the best method of splitting the rods/caps apart is. I REALLY don't want to damage anything taking stuff apart so I can plasticgauge stuff and recheck ring gaps.

Last time I did this I ended up putting the block upside down on an engine stand and put the piston/rod at BDC (so the rod caps were accessible) and then loosening the rod nuts and using a rubber mallet on the loosened rod nuts (trying to be gentle going back and forth on the two fasteners) to separate the cap from the rod. Seemed to work just fine. Is this method OK or is there a better way?

[5DIGITS]

If I do take this thing apart, I'm wondering what the best method of splitting the rods/caps apart is. I REALLY don't want to damage anything taking stuff apart so I can plasticgauge stuff and recheck ring gaps.

Last time I did this I ended up putting the block upside down on an engine stand and put the piston/rod at BDC (so the rod caps were accessible) and then loosening the rod nuts and using a rubber mallet on the loosened rod nuts (trying to be gentle going back and forth on the two fasteners) to separate the cap from the rod. Seemed to work just fine. Is this method OK or is there a better way?

Your approach seems to be reasonable.

[iTurbo]

Well that is a relief! What about the main caps....honest to god they are about impossible to pull straight up and out of their registers (I think that is what they are called). Is it OK to remove the caps by slightly wiggling them back and forth after the main stud nuts are all out? Without damaging what is probably a perfectly good main bearing?

[85glht]

Run it.

[iTurbo]

Run it.

I was hoping everybody would say that lol.

[RattFink]

Run it!

[GLHNSLHT2]

prime the snot out of the oil pump and run it.

[going4speed]

I'd fog the top end with a marine fogger. Let it sit for a day or two then spin it over before installing and running it.

[iTurbo]

I will definitely be very thorough about priming the engine before hand. It appears the assembly lube used is still there.

The top end has also been rebuilt and sitting on a work bench ever since. It was rebuilt by the same local company which so far has been great. It's a stock production TIII head rebuilt with Ti retainers, new valve seals, etc...it will be running good stock cams and a new set of lifters from FWDP. It will also be getting a Cometic HG (.051) and a set of ARP head studs.

[joelzip]

Prime and rotate assembly, put assembly lube on the cams and go!

[Vigo]

Your method of separating rod caps sounds good. The main caps, i usually back the bolts out of the threads and then with the bolts still in the main cap rock the cap back and forth using the bolt as a 'handle' until it works upward enough to pop off.

But, I would run it as is.

[HSKR]

I say run it. The only thing you may need to be worried about is any rubber seals.

[going4speed]

Good point on the seals. Easy to replace right now!

[86Shelby]

I see no reason to run it. Wipe some oil on the cylinder walls, replace the crank seals for peace of mind and go for it.


On second thought, DON'T run it! Don't even think about it. Children will cry, mothers will be angered, newspapers will write bad things about you. I'll send you a TIII block with JEs, a crankshaft and a few bucks for some rods so you don't have to face that fate. I'll fall on that hand grenade for you, my friend.

[Pat]

Clean it, seal it and run it.

[iTurbo]

Well I decided to tear it apart and rebuild it. Reason being I just had to make sure everything was assembled correctly (the possibility of improperly installed pin locks scared me among other things). And..... now I have no one to blame but myself if anything happens which is what'd I'd prefer anyway.

So far it looks great. Managed to get it all torn down without damaging anything. Bearings still look perfect and are Clevite 77 with 3-06 date stamp. The original assembly lube was waaay thicker than the stuff I use (Lubriplate 105). All of the pistons/rods are properly assembled and the spiral pin locks are installed correctly. The clocking of the ring gaps seems all over the place though. Not like the FSM shows anyway.

Now that I have a bare block I have another dilemma. This block has ARP main studs installed, but there was no line hone ever done when it was previously built at the machine shop. I think the nearest shop that could do it is in Sturgis which is over 100 miles away. It's probably not absolutely necessary but it's also the best time to have it done. For what it's worth, the crankshaft spun like butter after removing the pistons/rods.

[joelzip]

You have access to bore gauge?

[iTurbo]

Yes, I have a set. It looks like there are measurements written in Sharpie on the Venolia pistons as well.

[joelzip]

Check the mains for roundness with the gauges after torquing the caps down.