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Thread: Run it or rebuild it?

  1. #21
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Ah, I thought you were getting at verifying piston clearance. I will look into that though.

    Here it is all disassembled. This is the third engine that I have had rebuilt/assembled by my local machine shop and all I can say is they apparently do good work. Everything has checked out really well so far. This will be the 3rd motor I have built from a bare block and the first two are still running strong (a log 2.2L TI and a 2.2L TIII). I must have done something right (thanks to you guys).

    Attachment 54098Attachment 54097Attachment 54099

  2. #22
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Anybody got the torque specs for ARP main studs handy? I talked to RPM machine shop in Sturgis and he needs the spec to line hone this block which I hope to drop off soon...

  3. #23
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    I haven't had any issues with the bores being out of round on the two engines I've put the main studs in. They weren't measured, though when checking the bearings on one of them later on they didn't show any unusual wear. YMMV
    “If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford

  4. #24
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    That is basically what I have heard as well Ray. It sounds as if the line hone is ideal but not absolutely necessary in most cases.

    Right now I'm thinking I'll drop the Spirit R/T block off in Sturgis and then resume the Shelby Lancer project!

    Tonight I'm verifying the ring gaps. According to the '91 FSM, the specs for the TIII for the "No. 1 Ring" and "No. 2 Ring" are .014"-.020". Oil control ring spec is .010"-.020".

  5. #25
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    I dropped the block off at RPM in Sturgis today but I'm still having trouble locating the torque spec for the ARP main studs. Anybody?

    Also, do the main studs get the ARP assembly lube on both ends of the stud before installation (block side and nut side?) I'll definitely put a light coat of the stuff on the washers and nut bottoms, but I'm not sure about the block-side threads.

  6. #26
    Hybrid booster
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  7. #27
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Installation instructions are in that link 80 ft lbs

  8. #28
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    ^ Thanks!

  9. #29
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    I'm just wondering why you spend all this money to have machine shops assemble engines when you just take them apart and re-do everything anyway? lol
    Rob M.
    '89 Turbo GTC

    2.5 TIII stroker, 568 w/ OBX and 3.77 FD

  10. #30
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar View Post
    I'm just wondering why you spend all this money to have machine shops assemble engines when you just take them apart and re-do everything anyway? lol
    They were built/assembled by a local machine shop about 10 years ago before I knew how to do it myself. Plus it's just something I want to get better/faster at.

  11. #31
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    I picked up my TIII block this afternoon in Sturgis. The machinist (who I'm pretty sure is the owner) did it and seemed very knowledgeable and gave me some tips on installing the studs for the final time. He said he line bored the mains (not just honed) and took a little bit of material off the caps similar to resizing connecting rods. He also told me to forget the ARP instructions and install the nuts to 70 ft/lbs. I think I will follow his advice since he likely used that spec to finish it.

    $200 for the main line bore, another $60 for the hot tank. A little more than I was imagining, but I'm happy that it's done. Very clean and ready for paint and assembly now.

  12. #32
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Wow 70 instead of ARP recommended 80? Maybe ask more of the turbo dodge members about that one. What kind of gasket are you using, mls?

  13. #33
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Last time I priced a line bore here it was $300, so you got out cheap
    Rob M.
    '89 Turbo GTC

    2.5 TIII stroker, 568 w/ OBX and 3.77 FD

  14. #34
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Quote Originally Posted by joelzip View Post
    Wow 70 instead of ARP recommended 80? Maybe ask more of the turbo dodge members about that one. What kind of gasket are you using, mls?
    Yup, Cometic MLS headgasket (.051") with copper spray and ARP head studs and also Cometic manifold gaskets too.

  15. #35
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanman²'s Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    They have the spec for a reason, we usually go higher not lower. Stick with the recommend value.

    I'm with FFM, why spend all that money and redo it. I'd have run it as is,

    Can you post pics of the piston tops please?

    Do the rods have ARP's?

    Only need to coat the top end of the studs, not the block side but it won't hurt.

    Edit, I had these specs in the old FAQ's.

    Quote Originally Posted by Me
    Specs using moly lube-

    Head studs-use around 80-85 ft/lbs but higher if you experience seepage or lifting. I've gone 100-110 ft/lbs with no issues and done this many times and also reused the studs many times,

    Mains studs are 65 ft/lbs

    Rod bolts are 50 ft/lbs.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

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  16. #36
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman² View Post
    They have the spec for a reason, we usually go higher not lower. Stick with the recommend value.

    I'm with FFM, why spend all that money and redo it. I'd have run it as is,

    Can you post pics of the piston tops please?

    Do the rods have ARP's?

    Only need to coat the top end of the studs, not the block side but it won't hurt.

    Edit, I had these specs in the old FAQ's.

    I dunno, I just didn't feel good about running it after sitting for 10 years being stored. I will at least feel better about it having some fresh assembly lube and the confidence that the specs are correct to the best of my ability.

    I will get some pics of the tops of the Venolia and Wiseco 2.5L TIII pistons up soon. And yes, the stock TIII rods have be reconditioned with ARP rod bolts.


    ARP says 80 ft/lbs; you say 65 ft/lb; the machinist says 70 ft/lbs......If the machinist finished the bore/hone with that main caps at 70, then wouldn't it be best for me to use that spec in the end?

  17. #37
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanman²'s Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Yes, if they were line honed at 70, use 70.

    I got that spec in the ARP box with the main studs I bought. I've spun my TIII well up to 7500 and beaten the crap out of it as you know, never had an issue with the mains at 65.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  18. #38
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman² View Post
    Can you post pics of the piston tops please?.
    Sorry for the wait. Here is a picture of the 2.5L TIII Wiseco piston top from TU:

    Attachment 54372

    Here is a picture of the Venolia 2.5L TIII piston top from FWDP:

    Attachment 54373

  19. #39
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanman²'s Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Thanks.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  20. #40
    turbo addict Chris W's Avatar
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    Re: Run it or rebuild it?

    Quote Originally Posted by iTurbo View Post
    Sorry for the wait. Here is a picture of the 2.5L TIII Wiseco piston top from TU:

    Attachment 54372

    Here is a picture of the Venolia 2.5L TIII piston top from FWDP:

    Attachment 54373
    We offer our 16-V pistons in two different dish sizes.

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