This isn't for racing, just for fun.
No peening. The big end was resized already when the ARPs were installed (got them with the car).
Not sure what you mean about the pistons...
This isn't for racing, just for fun.
No peening. The big end was resized already when the ARPs were installed (got them with the car).
Not sure what you mean about the pistons...
Than forged? Sure. I don't have forged pistons. I have these Federal Mogul cast pistons. I've run cast pistons in my race car for 8+ years; no IC, 20psi boost from a tiny Mitsu turbo and not broken them yet. The FM 533P pistons aren't hyper-u. So, I think they'll be fine. I'm not really lightening them anyway, just removing some flashing, then balancing them. It's free (my time) so why not?
Man I wish I had that type of luck. I cracked a piston with 500 miles on the clock.
Stupid question: What pistons available today are cast no hypers? I thought they were all hypers.
The Federal Mogul 2.2 pistons are not hyper. PN 533P. If it was an H533P, those would be hypers, but I've never even seen an H533P.
(The G-Head pistons are 532P, basically the same piston with a smaller dish; also not hyper)
All of the 2.5 FM pistons are hyper (PN H579P). Technically, a 579P would be a non-hyper cast pisotn. But, I've never seen that PN offered anywhere. I think the FM Hyper cast pisotns are the only ones available for the 2.5 anymore outside of forged. So, for a 2.5, your only real options are to find some OEM cast Mahle's, or go forged.
Considering all the cost of involving building an engine, buy the forge pistons.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...-Power-pistons
I got lucky and found a set of new pistons (532P) for the wifes Rampage with an 84-85 Turbo I, box was marked hyper's. I'm not concerned as the vehicle is going to be locked at 10 pounds of boost.
They are getting cheap on the parts for these old cars, I think all the pistons from Federal Mogul are going to be hyper.
The early pistons have a machined dish, the new ones are cast, the box was clearly marked hyperutectic.
Working on clearing the decks.
The tempilsticks don't work quite the way I thought they did (not like brake rotor paint). They are more like a crayon that melts at a specific temperature. So, I won't be able to apply it before the run, then check which paint is still there to indicate the temperature. I'll have to check it immediately after a run. Might be difficult to do; checking the backside of the runners.
Brake temperature paint might work. Depends on the temperature range you are looking at though and what you are trying to accomplish.
I know what brake temperature paint is. I thought the Tempilstiks (made by the same company)were just a paint-pen version of the paint. But, it's not. I don't think the brake temp paint comes in low enough temperatures to use on the intake.
Annnd, I just realized I'm talking about the paint sticks in the wrong project log
I got them for my Daytona to see how much hotter the #3 intake runner is running since it's right above the turbo. I get more knock on cylinder #3 after adding the #4 cooling mod.
Whoops I guess I should have known you knew what brake temp paint is
I had a heck of a time with the 533P pisons for my black omni several years ago. At the time I bought the last set that Federal Mogul had on hand at their warehouse which was machined for the floating pin. I had 2-3 sets shipped to the house that were for the pressed pin before getting into contact with one of their engineers who helped to get me setup with the correct pistons. This was probably 7 years ago now.