I'll have to look at the inside of mine to see if the studs are there. When you have a chance could you measure each piece of the hinge and maybe get a pic from the side that shows the whole hinge so I can get an idea what the angles are unless you have an angle finder you could put on it the measure it.
Just remember....the hinge cover is nice, but then the cover is in the way when you want to get in to the "hole. With the set up like mine, you take the cover off and out of the way. BOTH has advantages, but think about it.
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I would go with no hinge like Johnny said it will be much easier to work on and why a hinge just adds weight.
Way easier to fab a couple of bends in a piece of aluminum
#44 has no hinge it slides in on the bottom and has a screw lock type set up to close it.
Mine has never been in the way and we have worked on every piece in there. It hinges far forward for terrific access. If for some reason you need the hinge cover off just take it off.
The fiberglass piece that protects the back side of the headlight area. Here is one of mine, lost the other.
I looked why and it seems the bolts they attache with are gone. The glue they were held on with must have given up the grip.
Photos show the same one, just front and back side of it.
Great stuff for great cars! Poly engine mounts and bushings at: http://www.polybushings.com
Thanks Johnny. I'll add it to my Consulier pictures folder.
What size radiator cap does the surge tank use? I'm guessing the standard 56mm?
Those headlight backing pieces on mine were only glued on, no screws. I just pulled them while doing tie rods etc. I am going to glue n screw them back on.
So I picked up a Everlast Powerpro 256S Tig/stick/Plasma cutter and am going to start practicing my welding before starting on the gas tank. What thickness would you guys that have had your tanks out say they are? I'm going to try and collect some scrap pieces at work for practice and want to get as close to the tank thickness as possible. I'm guessing somewhere between 11 gauge and 1/8" as that's where most aftermarket tanks fall.
I was apparently about to lose one as well. When I did the front end , the bolt tab things at the bottom were popped away from the body. Looks like they were glued on with something clear more than once. I'm going to try some jb weld or some 3m 5200 this time. Mine also had rtv around the perimeter.Originally Posted by Johnny
Found this at rossion. Flip flops are size 13.
Gtp racing fuel cell. Not exactly same as stock tank but a lot less work.
Speaking of loose panels , buyer of my red car has inadvertently pulled engine cover hinge off from the rear bulkhead , series 1 is just bonded on. I suggested 2 part marine epoxy , anyone done this already ?
I'd say marine epoxy as well. I know the bumper supports are held in with 3m 5200 marine adhesive sealant.
Great for bonding metal to fiberglass but that stuff doesn't dry rock hard, pretty stiff, but not like I'd want an engine cover hinge.
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