Opinions needed on Clutch for Spirit R/T

[Simsy]

Looking to replace clutch in my spirit r/t in the near future and get rid of this awful stiff Dual Diaphram Red plate kevlar clutch that has caused nothing but issues for the past few years.. Looking for something that retains stock pedal feel and somewhat smooth engagement. Max torque I'd say that i need it to hold is maybe 400lbs. also something that can hold up to slicks at the strip. Im leaning towards the Turbos Unleashed stage 3 yellow plate 6 puck, but wanna be sure before i purchase and see if anyone has any experience with the clutch. Thanks

[tryingbe]

Go over, not under.

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/ulti...iii-p-473.html

We combine the high torque capacity of our Stage III (Yellow) modified pressure plates with the aggressive 6-Puck ceramic disk to bring you a clutch that will support upwards of 375 Ft Lbs of Torque while still providing extended disk life

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/ulti...eiv-p-474.html

We combine the high torque capacity of our Stage IV (Black) modified pressure plates with the aggressive 6-Puck ceramic disk to bring you a clutch that will support upwards of 434 Ft Lbs of Torque (232mm Disk)

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/ulti...eiv-p-471.html

We combine the high torque capacity of our Stage IV (Black) modified pressure plates with the aggressive 4-Puck ceramic disk to bring you a clutch that will support well over 450 Ft Lbs of Torque (232mm Disk)while still providing extended disk life.

Here's a review of one
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ght=Sprung+Hub

[DoubleD]

With your power goals, I would get the TU Stage IV Purple/ Black Pressure plate with the 6 puck ceramic disk. Get the 10% larger option on the disk and never look back. I have had this exact clutch on my IROC R/T for 2+ years and I love it. Installing one in my buddy's Spirit R/T later this spring also. Nothing but good news using this clutch!

[Simsy]

thanks for the input guys..

I was also considering extending the length of the clutch arm to put less stress on the cable and have a lighter pedal. Anyone have any experience doing that? I know in the past i had come across something about it on here. If I could make that work that'd be great because other than the harsh pedal the clutch is great and holds up to boost very well.

[Lotashelbys]

thanks for the input guys..

I was also considering extending the length of the clutch arm to put less stress on the cable and have a lighter pedal. Anyone have any experience doing that? I know in the past i had come across something about it on here. If I could make that work that'd be great because other than the harsh pedal the clutch is great and holds up to boost very well.

You can run that as I have one a few cars. If you get the TU black plate its actually lighter pedal feel than a stock TIII plate!

[Simsy]

You can run that as I have one a few cars. If you get the TU black plate its actually lighter pedal feel than a stock TIII plate!

do you have any pics of the clutch arm mod?

[Shadow]

do you have any pics of the clutch arm mod?

Just cut enough of the end off of another arm so that the rubber clutch cable retainer has it's "hole" to go into. (about 1-1 1/4") Then weld it on to the end of your clutch arm

If you don't have an extra arm to hack up, just get a piece of U channel about the same size, cut your arm just after the clutch cable hole and add an inch to inch and a half to the arm and weld it up.

IF your going to go the TU route, you shouldn't need this mod. As Jackson said, the clutch pedal should feel stock or better. (lighter)

[Simsy]

Just cut enough of the end off of another arm so that the rubber clutch cable retainer has it's "hole" to go into. (about 1-1 1/4") Then weld it on to the end of your clutch arm

If you don't have an extra arm to hack up, just get a piece of U channel about the same size, cut your arm just after the clutch cable hole and add an inch to inch and a half to the arm and weld it up.

IF your going to go the TU route, you shouldn't need this mod. As Jackson said, the clutch pedal should feel stock or better. (lighter)

thanks..does it make it feel significantly lighter from your experience?

[Shadow]

thanks..does it make it feel significantly lighter from your experience?

I only used it on the ACT set-up because it was needed to bring the geometry of the clutch into "Safe operating" limits. (otherwise the PP would over extend itself) So I don't know exactly how it would have felt any other way.

I did do this mod on a DD PP for a customer and they said it made a noticeable difference it their opinion. (almost undrivable before, didn't bother them anymore after) But still slightly stiff compared to stock.

[86Shelby]

I have enjoyed the purple plate/6puck from TU that I've had for a few years. It wasn't cheap, but it's held everything I've thrown at it with slicks. Pedal feel is nice, stiffer than your run of the mill Accord, but nowhere near too stiff to drive everyday like some heavy duty clutches. When I need another clutch, I'll be giving TU a call again.

[c2xejk]

TU purple (stage 4) PP/6-puck or Clutchnet Red (heaviest) PP and 6-puck disc. Both are good. The Clutchnet setup is in my current daily driver (Spirit R/T with a turbo 3L). I think the Clutchnet setup is less expensive.

[Ondonti]

I only used it on the ACT set-up because it was needed to bring the geometry of the clutch into "Safe operating" limits. (otherwise the PP would over extend itself) So I don't know exactly how it would have felt any other way.

I did do this mod on a DD PP for a customer and they said it made a noticeable difference it their opinion. (almost undrivable before, didn't bother them anymore after) But still slightly stiff compared to stock.

My extended arm car disengages the clutch at the floor which is annoying.

[Shadow]

My extended arm car disengages the clutch at the floor which is annoying.

That sounds a little strange? Almost like you have a worn disk or worn PP? The clutch pedal is adjustable (self adjusting) as I'm sure you know. Most seem to work OK and put the engagement somewhere near the middle of the throw. I have had a few that Didn't want to cooperate and I was forced to "freeze" them in place with a couple screws to keep the point of engagement where I wanted it.

[Pat]

That sounds a little strange? Almost like you have a worn disk or worn PP? The clutch pedal is adjustable (self adjusting) as I'm sure you know. Most seem to work OK and put the engagement somewhere near the middle of the throw. I have had a few that Didn't want to cooperate and I was forced to "freeze" them in place with a couple screws to keep the point of engagement where I wanted it.

With a heavy plate, what puts the engagement so far towards the floor is all the slack and flex in the cable, the cable mounting, the rubber grommets, etc. You step on the clutch pedal and before it starts actually moving the diaphram on the plate, it flexes the mounting at the clutch pedal assembly, the mount on the strut tower, squeezes the grommet on the trans, etc. All that takes up swing motion of the clutch pedal, which puts engagement/disengagement way down toward the floor.

When I did the extended arm mod way back when for a DD plate I ran for a bit, I put a very heavy spring on the bottom of the clutch pedal. This pulled the much more flex/movement out of the clutch cable components, which brought the engagement point back up. Also kept the self adjusting function working. It probably put a bit more wear on the TOB, but it wasn't a daily driver for me so I was OK with it. If using a DD plate, the best way to address the issue is to strengthen and brace the components so they don't flex/squish/move as much.

The ideal route (in my opinion) is to not use a DD plate. The extended arm helps, but it really is a band aid for a not so ideal clutch. I've been very happy with the TU clutches I've run and would recommend going that route.

[Simsy]

this is the current setup in the car. holds excellent but just snapped my clutch cable which was the original cable. also stripped out 2 adjusters so i have it rigged up with screws just like SHADOW did. I bought this from Turbovanman in 2012 which was originally purchased from TU I was told. I have no issues with it other than the heavy pedal and the worry of snapping another clutch cable. I will do the clutch arm mod as long as it makes it somewhat livable and takes some stress off the pedal and cable.

[dwh4784]

Any opinions on the 4 puck vs the 6? I picked up a new never used purple plate 4 puck off of a TD.com member, it's really overkill for my car but was less $$ than I would have spent ordering what I was looking at. Just wondering how much more grabby a 4 puck is compared to a 6 or if it's even noticeable. I don't DD the car anymore but it's not a drag queen either.

[tryingbe]

[URL=http://s46.photobucket.com/user/overmyhead13/media/DSCN0191_zpscczymqzd.jpg.html]

I wouldn't use that clutch disc, no springs retainer!

Any opinions on the 4 puck vs the 6? I picked up a new never used purple plate 4 puck off of a TD.com member, it's really overkill for my car but was less $$ than I would have spent ordering what I was looking at. Just wondering how much more grabby a 4 puck is compared to a 6 or if it's even noticeable. I don't DD the car anymore but it's not a drag queen either.

4 punks hold more power than 6 punks. I think TU pressure plate requires TU clutch disc, because the disc are thicker.

[Simsy]

Well it's been in the car for 3 years lol. I was told the disc and pp are turbo unleashed

[Pat]

The other risk to a very heavy plate is that it leads to thrust bearing wear. I've pulled apart two motors that had the thrust bearings and the crank heavily damaged that had heavy plates in them.

[Vigo]

If you use a heavy pressure plate, make sure you can start the car without having to push the clutch pedal to avoid nasty thrust bearing wear during 'dry' startup.