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Thread: 2-bar vs 3-bar

  1. #21
    Visit www.boostbutton.com... Turbo Mopar Contributor ShelGame's Avatar
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    Re: 2-bar vs 3-bar

    Quote Originally Posted by shadow88 View Post
    I hope things have come a long way in that time, because the first controller didn't start the car and the second had so much ignition advance it broke the insulation off the spark plugs and damaged the pistons, head and turbine wheel. I figured after that, a third effort wasn't going to be awarded to the programmer.
    Gack. Was that me?
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    Rob Lloyd
    '89 Daytona C/S

    2.5 T1 Auto
    13.24 @ 100.5mph
    NHRA #3728 AF/S

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  2. #22
    turbo addict
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    Re: 2-bar vs 3-bar

    Quote Originally Posted by ShelGame View Post



    STILL using MP Tune 1?
    I am using MP tune 2, but I don't feel like updating all screen shots.

  3. #23
    Visit www.boostbutton.com... Turbo Mopar Contributor ShelGame's Avatar
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    Re: 2-bar vs 3-bar

    Quote Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
    I am using MP tune 2, but I don't feel like updating all screen shots.
    Lol, gotcha...
    https://db.tt/SV7ONZpQ
    Rob Lloyd
    '89 Daytona C/S

    2.5 T1 Auto
    13.24 @ 100.5mph
    NHRA #3728 AF/S

    boostbutton.com
    tuning wiki

  4. #24
    turbo addict
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    Re: 2-bar vs 3-bar

    Quote Originally Posted by ShelGame View Post
    Gack. Was that me?
    I spent many many hours tuning the mega squirt system on my old turbo neon. Also many runs made with the factory 2 bar in my shadow with "caveman" cold start injectors to get the perfect a/f ratio and ignition advance. So I know how difficult it is to get a tune correct. To get it right the first time is unlikely, and the second time is almost as unlikely, but at the cost to repair the damage, I had to go back to my tried and true caveman ways.

    Yeah, that damage came from your smec.

  5. #25
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor mopar-tech's Avatar
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    Re: 2-bar vs 3-bar

    Quote Originally Posted by shadow88 View Post
    Also many runs made with the factory 2 bar in my shadow with "caveman" cold start injectors to get the perfect a/f ratio and ignition advance.
    I debated wading into this thread the few times it popped up and thought I'd chime in finally.

    When Gus introduced me to the cold start injector method I thought it was impossible and crazy but after using it for some time and running my own car on the dyno several times I'm convinced it is a viable alternative. You think this is caveman? Gus's turbo Mustang had a kit from Art Carr on it and the fuel enrichment was adjusted by turning a brass valve in a fuel line that was plumbed into the carb hat. That's just the way it was from Art Carr and the damn car ran like a scalded dog.

    My advice for anyone looking to run a cold start is to get a cal with the overboost shut down so they don't have to fool with diodes, get a good cold start valve with a quality switch (I had a light on the dash to verify operation too) and limit the boost to 20-25 psi if running a stock turbo and intercooler. They car will be pretty safe with pump gas and a riot to drive. I ran 12's with what I mentioned above (I used a diode instead AND 30 psi) and it was perfectly safe.

    More than one way to skin a cat.


    Working on clearing the decks.

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