Where are you at in Florida where premium doesn't have ethanol? I lived in Florida until about 3 years ago. All the places I ever got gas had at least 10%. There were stations you could get non-ethanol fuel and you could go to the boat dock, but don't get caught doing that. It's similar tax reasons as aviation fuel such as 100LL.
Racetrac stations sell ethanol free gas around here but it's 89 octane or something like that. Does not come from the same hose as the other 3 grades.
Might be opening a can of worms but... which is better E-free 89 or E10 93 octane?....or some kooky concoction ( e-free 89 + octane booster ) ?
LOL...I wouldn't buy fuel at a Racetrac for my lawn mower! For those that don't know...SUPER CHEAP gas! It's cheap because it's...well...cheap. They have gotten better over the years, but I've seen more people with issues from clogged filters and water in their fuel because of those stations than anywhere else. BJ's and SAM's Club are the next 2. (I turned wrenches on boats for 11 years in Jax) I always used Shell, Chevron, Gate (common in that area), Hess, and BP. I tried to stick with Shell or Chevron as much as possible. Pricing played a small part, but I knew I was always getting the same stuff...I always went to the same stations and the same pumps.
Ethanol does act as an octane booster and if you are going to be running it out fairly quickly, then I'd run the 93 E10. If it's going to sit for more than 2 weeks...get some Sta-Bil Marine (blue) fuel stabilizer. It will treat the fuel and keep it from going bad. The "marine" version also deals with moisture contamination a little better than the "normal" stuff. This is important for Florida for sure! I run stabilizer in my truck because I don't drive it often. Same with my car and with my 1/5th scale R/C gasser.
^^ Sounds like your very cautious and bordering on paranoia when it comes to 93 octane with ethanol additives
After seeing what kind of damage it can do, yup. I am very cautious. Over cautious. Ok, maybe. Paranoid? Nope, the damage I've seen was very real and it cost the owners a lot of money to fix. I don't want to experience the same pain! If I can help prevent others from going through it, I will at least try.
Yep Chevron, Shell, Texaco or nothing for me. Previous owner of my old GLHT used the cheapest 92 octane he could find way back in the 90's. When I pulled the head off to convert to T2 after owning it a few months the valves, chambers and pistons were coated with carbon up to 1/4" thick. I didn't touch any of it, kept running Chevron through it and when I pulled the head a year later to do something else the carbon was almost compltely gone.
Got the inline filter and new pump installed. Made a better bracket to mount them. Also made it so the plate can drop down for ease of replacement and service.
So we are replacing the clutch master cylinder , as it does not have a compatible throw with the slave cylinder.
Replacing all suspension bushing w johnny's stuff , and trying to modify them to work on the upper control arms.
2 out of 4 shocks are blown so replacing them wit NOS Carrera shocks we found at Rossion. All new ball joints , tie rods ends etc will go in at the same time.
This is interesting.....Which new slave cylinder did you get?Originally Posted by polopharm
PO had installed a nice anodized one from Pegasus. The bore of the slave vs the master were different. The master cylinder bore was smaller. I can't remember the numbers. We are keeping the slave which is new-ish and are replacing the master cylinder with one from Pegasus racing that has correct bore.
Front end going back together. The tie rod ends - not all the daytona moog tie rods ends are the same. We got 2 with the same part number but one worked n 1 didn't. We ordered 6 more and 1 out of the 5 worked.
Just ordered new double adjustable shocks from Qa1 , the ones I got at Rossion did not work.
Just mounted my hoosier tires on the Cragar wheels I grabbed at the factory.
What didn't work with the tie rod ends?
Wrong internal diameter.
If your doing any rear work and were thinking about going to my Wilwood brake setup you should change the rear spindles to match the front.
So I am trying to change the motor mounts adding Johnny's poly mounts. The tabs where the motor mounts bolt to the subframe are twisted and bent out of shape. I am not sure if it's due to torque and worn out mounts or if it was just a bad design. Anyone else had similar issues?
So far every job I start on the car has turned out to be far more of a project then expected.
Mine were not out of shape. Can you post a shot of what you mean?
Great stuff for great cars! Poly engine mounts and bushings at: http://www.polybushings.com
I will take some pictures tomorrow. On further inspection I think that someone who worked on the car previously used a crow bar or something when pulling the engine/tranny, and bent the crap out of the subframe mounts
So car came back from getting aligned. Hoping to get to drive it. So far I have driven it less then 50 miles since buying it. Now I find out the radiator is leaking ....
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