I think at those speeds and power levels that your performance isn't really going to jump by 10mph in 1 season unless it's a completely new set-up that has absolutely no baseline. So, when you are building an incremental car, then you know right around where to shoot for gear ratios that will put the engine right where you want it crossing the line. If you get to the point where you are overshooting the set-up...time to spend more $.
From all the data we have gathered 180mph isn't out of the question, the car has been 170mph already with a slipping converter. With the right converter and bad ratio the car was going 164mph@7500rpm. So with the right ratio I have no doubt the car will fly, plus we have more room to increase the boost.Originally Posted by Reaper1
What is redline on your two cars? Didn't the old NHRA Hotrod class 2.4's try to run over 10,000?
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I wasn't saying you didn't need the gearsets. I was saying that for you guys it makes sense to build only a few custom gearsets because you do know where you are shooting for.
are these going to be available before the end of summer? rough guestimate on cost? I definitely want to bump my final drive ratio to around 3:70-ish- the only reason I never changed out my transfer gears is lack of available ratios in the range that I want.
I think you misunderstood the reason for his original post. I believe he's doing thse for himself, not for sale...
OR did I misunderstand???
No, they are 1-off parts for that race program only.
I would hope that's not the case, otherwise why keep the source he's using for having the gears machined secret?
`Probably because the place doesnt want people with 12-14 second cars calling in and spending the company's time figuring out that they don't want or need 5-figure $$ custom gearset orders that will deliver in 10 months.
There is a 3.7 ratio with all stock parts. The question for a 10+ second car build would be, do they even break at a power level i have to worry about? I am interested if boots has a different answer but i'm 99% confident the answer is no. If you think about these gears in comparison to 5spd gears, if people arent breaking our 5-spd gears consistently with 140 mph cars, these gears should be even stronger than that. How fast are you wanting to go?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
How fast do I want to go? single digits.
locating a set of factory 1.22's is like trying to track down a 3-horned unicorn. seems like I miss the chance to buy them every time a set comes up for sale and I've never seen a 1.7 auto car in the yards.
You're probably right that a set of factory transfer gears will handle the power levels, but that's a moot point if I cant find them.
My car is built to handle 9500rpm and the sled can handle 9000rpm. I can't rember exactly what Darrell revved to, I think 9000rpm 28in tall tire.
This batch of six is already accounted for, I can have another batch made if there's intereted. But we had this batch made for our selfs and a couple of friends.
I spent a lot time to find a place that's afforrdable, fast, and easy to work with. I just choose to keep that to myself, they are not an automotive gear company.
The 1.22 gears should be fine for a 10 sec car all day, tire shake and hard launches is what breaks the gears.
Thanks for the info.The 1.22 gears should be fine for a 10 sec car all day, tire shake and hard launches is what breaks the gears.
Crusty shadow, for what it's worth i will keep my eye out for a set of gears for you.
Actually... if you manage to find a 1.7VW a404 with the gears on it, pull the gears and i will buy the rest of that transmission from you!!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
9500 is a bit more than I will be spinning mine up to, 7500 is going to be my shift point sounds like the gears you are having made are far beyond what a 1.22 set will let the engine spin to.
Are those by chance going to be spur cut gears? I've seen the ones at Darrel Cox Racing and those are spur cut gears with teeth about as big as my thumb- super strong but those things will howl like a banshee going down the road. either way I look forward to seeing a set of yours when they are finished.
something to think about though- if your overall cost on getting those made is low enough there might be enough of a profit margin to make it worth your while.
No problem. If you know where any of the planetaries/sun gears are for the a404 please let me know.
The new gears are below the 1.22/3.05 ratio of 3.72, so the will actually be better for you. I use helical gears, straight cut gears repell each other to much. I increases the size of the teeth a good bit for strength. I do not make these gears to make money, we make them because we need them. But if I have to use my own money to put up for the gears then I need to make something.
I have some videos of the gears being machined on Facebook.com the red sleds page if you guys would like to check them out.
With a 26" slick growing to 27.5" and 3.72:1 gears at 7500 rpm, you would cross the traps at 165mph. Go down to 24.5" slicks and it's ~150.7500 is going to be my shift point sounds like the gears you are having made are far beyond what a 1.22 set will let the engine spin to.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
all my stuff is based on 24.5 slicks, we've been 1.44 60ft's should do better with the gear change.
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