They pro tree'd me in this video, reaction time was 2.1 and I didn't even load up on the line
They pro tree'd me in this video, reaction time was 2.1 and I didn't even load up on the line
Sounds good!
Working on clearing the decks.
May just be the sound on those videos but it sounds like it's leaving at a pretty low rpm. What rpm and boost are you launching at?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Really glad you decided to track it Sooner rather than Later! I was going to say something when you made the comment that after all of this, you were going to pull the powertrain and put in the fully built mtr.
How many times have we seen a car get dyno'd and changed and never get any track time, then the first time it goes to the track everyone is expecting 9's and it is a Huge disappointment. So much so, that the car disappears to never see the light of a track day again
There is So much that can be learned and set up on your ride Before making more power!
Just glad you got some Good advice before it was too late! I no longer give advice in those situations because people tend to jump to the "offended" side of the coin, instead of understanding the desire to Help...............
Car looks good for first time out, Keep it up!!!!
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
I was trying to launch around 3500 rpm. That usually gets my boost between 16 and 18 Psi. The problem was, when I would stage, the guy was so quick lighting the tree that I wouldn't have time to build boost when I left the line. I only cut 2, 1.7 60 foot times out of 8 runs. This is why we are going to get my 2 step working.
All and all it was a great night though. Car felt solid and went straight down the track, no squat at all and traction was very good when I could build boost. For some reason when I uploaded the slow mo vid, It has come out all grainy(shots with iPhone 6s) I'm going to try and fix that and re-post it, because it gets the whole lunch and you can see my car with no squat at all
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Thanks it was a blast to drive!
Now like I said before we got to pour through the data logs and see what's going on.
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No plastic or keyed swiches. Of course we all have gotten away with things, sometimes for decades :P
I have had events where my hood was never even opened because it was a Dodge Spirit. My P body looks a lot sketchier so it attracts failure.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showpos...56&postcount=4
Launching will be a lot easier to figure out once your 2 step is happy. Stomp on the brake and gas the moment you stage and wait. Really hard to make something of boggy auto transmission 1/8th mile E.T.s Look at Mean Mini. I am pretty certain his improvements are 80% on the launch.
What was your 1/8th MPH. What do your logs say about boost through 1st gear. By sound doesn't seem like you even hit full boost in 1st gear. Logs are great. Sometimes the tape lies.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
That link is over 5 years old and states if battery is relocated. The one i read is directly from the nhra website. However, I flew thru tech with no problems at all, which surprised me considering the cars they have race there(BOOSTED, BIG DADDY, ETC). The track is friggen awesome, flat, sticky and prepped perfectly.
best MPH was 101.69 with a 1.93 60ft and 7.52 1/8th
best RUN was 94.20 with a 1.77 60ft and 7.45 1/8th
Started going thru the logs and am damn lucky I didn't explode the car I was over revving, thanks to my ancient tach, lack of driving recently, and my nerves. I leaned out to 13.5 A/F@23psi
New tach on the way and back on the dyno...
How high did you rev?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
First log I have been thru says 7300, but we have the rev limiter at 7000. my tach said 6600, so its way off. we haven't tuned it up higher then that because of the stock rod issue and I didn't feel we need to because the tune makes plenty of power and torque down low. i also was not hitting my target boost of 26psi(max 22psi during the runs). The dyno tuning was definitely a good base, but now we have to figure out what was going on between shifts and why we had the lean issue(possibly fuel mix)
Sounds like a lot to work on, but the car is intact and it's better to fight these than to be swapping out broken engine parts and STILL having to fix this stuff down the line.
Ever consider some kind of safety device for AFR or knock or anything like that? Some gauges have programmable alarm outputs you could use to go back to minimum boost or interrupt coil negative.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
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Well, might want to turn on some of your fancy features so you don't run 13.5:1 afr @23 psi ever again! heh.
I know you want to build more boost on the line to power through your tall gears. I did more math just out of curiosity because some of the vids sounded like you were riding the converter stall for what seemed like a long time before your rpm actually rose. With 24.5" tires and a 2.91FD and converter stalling at 3500 rpm, you would have to go ~33mph before your engine rpm and wheel speed started to go up 'together'. I think it's a function of tall gearing and a semi-tight converter but obviously you will be able to push through it since you already did a 1.77.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Passing tech doesn't mean you are following the rules. I said before, the website is not the rulebook. If the real rulebook said that, that is an interesting change. What you are stating sounds like the "not careful check" rules. The rules in the book would be more geared towards their insurance policy. If you are pointing out the battery relocation, why do you even have a kill switch? Once you go to one, it doesn't matter where your battery is. Some of these tech rules you get away with forever and then some tech having a bad day ruins your trip, and sometimes that trip is a long planned expensive one
That 1/8th MPH is enough to run high 10's as the car sits, obviously a full 1/4 might see the engine getting hurt if the logs are as bad as you say they are. Get that 2 step working and maybe tweak the tune to get it making boost quicker at the line and run some better 60's so you can hit better #'s.
How was 1st gear off the launch till the top end on the logs?
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I never said that getting through tech at my local track proved that I was following the rules. It was actually very relaxed at HMP the other night. Again, as I stated before, my master kill if for my own personal safety. I did not install it per any regulations. Now the NHRA regs that I have read say that it falls into their category, save the safety decals(installing today). How many of us have NHRA certified sticker on our roll cages?
Now, please understand, if tech doesn't want you in, you are not getting in no matter how many t's you have crossed or i's you have dotted. It is their RIGHT to deny any car or driver they do not feel safe or fit to race. I have been denied at a track because it was "v8 night and we don't want ricers in". Yes my mint Shelby Lancer is apparently a ricer car. Tell me how you combat that. I am sure there are tons of people who have been failed at tech for b.s. reasons.
We are still going through the logs, tons of useful info in there. It literally logs what every sensor is seeing right down to volts.
Last edited by turboshelbys; 07-21-2015 at 02:46 PM.
Local tech is a crapshoot. I have been through tech where they literately made the sign of the cross over you and said have fun without looking at the car and then there are idiots at New England Dragway who wanted to know where my driveshaft loops were on the Reliant.
Hello? Front wheel drive boys.
N.E.D. broke my balls so much on tech inspectiosn while waving through locals with clear violations that I utterly refuse to patronize the track to this day.
So tech tech inspections with a grain of salt. Get a copy of the NHRA rule book and bring it with you to the track.
Working on clearing the decks.