86 Laser-Voice Alert w/ Aftermarket Deck&Oil Pressure Fluctuating & odometer question

[jahagafut]

I just bought an 86 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo today. 76,000 km on it. It seems in great shape. There are just a few concerns I have with it that I hope maybe can be addressed on here.

1) My main concern, even though it is probably more of an annoyance, this is what sort of got me into this car;
I have the Electronic Voice Alert module, but I would like to put in an after market deck and keep this. I really hope there is someway to work this out?

2) The oil pressure likes to fluctuate. It stays within the first 3 boxes of the inner bracketed area on the gauge, but it likes to move around quite a bit

3) How many digits is the odometer? It looks like it has 7 digits, though the first two look like they are blank and only contain a 1, respectively. I just wonder if this car possibly rolled over on the odometer

4) Also, where is normal operating temperature for this car? It seems to get to where I believe it should be when idling, but when driving, it dips down quite a bit and I rarely get much heat, which isn't very convenient for living in the Canadian prairies. Perhaps I should switch my thermostat?

Thank you very much for any help. I did not think I would find a forum aimed at these type of vehicles.

[HSKR]

Can't help you with the voice alerts. on the oil pressure, is it fluctuating while at a steady RPM or does it fluctuate with RPMs. Fluctuating with RPMs is normal. Odometer should be 7 digits with the first position to the right a tenths, as in decimal point. As for operating temp, mine usually hangs out right around the first mark of the "normal" range with a 180 degree t-stat. But sitting at idle it will hit the halfway point before the fan turns on and cools it back off. If your heater sucks, you may need to either flush your heater core, or it may just need replaced.

[jahagafut]

Yeah it mainly moves with RPM I think. It had a bit of a rolling idle so that would explain that. Probably a vacuum leak. Thank you for the answers.

Would you happen to know if it's much work to take these dashes apart to replace the front speakres?

- - - Updated - - -

Yeah it mainly moves with RPM I think. It had a bit of a rolling idle so that would explain that. Probably a vacuum leak. Thank you for the answers.

Would you happen to know if it's much work to take these dashes apart to replace the front speakres?

[HSKR]

No experience with the earlier models so can't help ya with the speaker question.

[supercrackerbox]

You'll need some short #2 Phillips head screwdrivers to get at those speakers in the dash. It's just two 3.5" (?) tweeters at each end. Remove the plastic top panel and they're pretty easy to get to.

As for the voice alert, I have no idea if it would work with an aftermarket stereo or not. All I know is the control box for the system is mounted in the glove box, so I'd say plug in the aftermarket deck and see what happens.

[Dodge Aries K]

The voice will still work, but it won't be able to stop the radio from playing while it's attempting to talk. There is a solution though... I believe. Some aftermarket decks have a phone mute wire (I think Pioneer does this) and, even though I haven't tried it myself, hooking that mute wire to the EVA mute wire in the factory harness SHOULD shut the radio up while it's doing it's thing and then unmute itself when it's done. Like I said, haven't tried it myself but the theory is there that it should behave.

[crusty shadow]

from what you're describing with the temperature it sounds like you either have a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head. you said the engine will warm up to operating temp but will then drop way down when you get going down the road and not have any heat- classic symptom of a blown head gasket in these cars.

you need to get ahold of a cooling system pressure tester ( can be rented for free from most chain auto parts stores) and do a full pressure test. the system needs to be able to hold 16 psi and not bleed down a significant amount of pressure for at least 20 minutes. if there is a drop in pressure or system wont build any pressure you are going to have to pull the cylinder head and fix the problem- don't worry the head is fairly easy to remove compared to most front wheel drive cars, you should have no problem getting it off after an afternoon under the hood.

[jahagafut]

The heat issue was solved by topping up the coolant and replacing the rad cap as well as the thermostat. Of course I lose coolant, but I was told by a friend I have a leaking water pump and that my head gasket was good.

Although, I wouldn't be overly surprised if I have a big issue. Considering the previous owner didn't realize two engine mounts were completely loose and a transmission mount was missing. Not to mention the leaking front and rear main, transaxle, oil pan gasket . He must have thought this was a race car and not a Chrysler. I will replace my water pump and see what happens from there.

As for the old voice there, you say you can wire it in but he can't mute, I figured as much, but do I just reach in for some wires on his harness and wire him into a speaker?