Now that most everything is done on the motor I realized I didn’t like the look of the alternator. As you can see from the pics I took it apart and powder coated the housing. I ordered the rebuild kit for it and should be waiting for me when I return home Friday and should have it done by the weekend. Hopefully it still works when it’s done
My buddy Rod bailed me out big time on a couple occasion included the rusted alternator bracket which has since been powder coated.
Last edited by GLHS320; 01-22-2015 at 09:36 AM.
Amazing work! Persistence pays off!
When Brian did the crank sensor he used a 6 grove crank pulley and said I could use a 4 grove belt or switch to a 6 for a cleaner look. I had to have the cleaner look which meant finding a T3 water pump pulley and that rolled into getting a reverse rotation W/P and housing then to find out I had to switch the alternator bracket. The other parts that I couldn’t use were already powder coated and done. This was one of the first of many problems I ran into since Oct while trying to get the engine in the car. In the end of it all I’ll glad everything happened the way it did because it forced me to slow down and not cut corners. As you can see in this series of pics I had the housing welded so I could port a better flow transition and then powder coated it.
Sending it to Slowe for a rollcage?
Not sure yet, Brian showed me Lengel’s cage at Cecil in Nov and I like the design but told myself in the beginning I won’t cage the car unless I hit 10’s. I’ve made performance sacrifices so I didn’t cut up a clean S-Car, at the end of the day I’m shooting for the best of both worlds and know I won’t get it. If I get kicked off a track for running low 11’s with ease then I’ll to decide my ultimate direction. My complaints with this build is the intake design is not optimal, not sure how the exhaust manifold will work but is was the best of my abilities and available money at the time and the intercooler piping is only 2.5” and was the only way to get it to fit without cutting anything. Hopefully it all works out but I’m sure I’ll have to make changes down the road. It will be nice to get it running and figure out the next fire then.
Haha! I had this same dilemma. Cage or no cage. When I started getting in the 11.2 range they told me to slow it down or leave. At this point there was no more dilemma. I wanted to go faster so it got caged. To me it's kind of point less building a 500-600hp car with no cage because you can't use that kind of power on the street, and on the track you cant use that power unless you have a cage. BTW love this car!
Your right, once it's done and dialed in it should need a cage then I'll need to get some extra interior pieces so I can save the originals. I took some pics of you cage and fuel pump at Cecil to give me ideas when it comes time to do mine. Like I always say, if you want to go fast watch the people that are a lot faster than you. Brian did a great job on your cage and like the way it ties in together.
I love your car BTW.
With that header coating, is it completely cured after being baked or does it have to be exposed to exhaust type temperature before it is fully hardened?
This particular process is applied with a air brush gun or touch up gun at 1-3mils thick and doesn’t require any baking. It does require you to run the vehicle at Idle for 30-40 minutes with the assumption that the exhaust temp will be around 800 degrees. I’m not sure how it will turn out but figured it was worth a shot since I can get the exhaust side off easy enough. I bought this paint about 7 years ago (scary) and now there’s a supplier that requires you to bake it at 500 degrees for about 30 minutes. Recently I read on some old forums about the coating that I used and most of the people had good success with it, the ones that didn’t seemed to either didn't prep the part correctly or applied it to thick. I can post the short term and long term results if your interested. This build cost a ton of money and tried to do everything myself when I could and lean new processes so money could be spent in other areas.
I used the same coating 3 years ago, I applied it with an airbrush, like the instructions say, applied 2 coats, didn't let it pool.
Raced the car a few times,(so the product was cured), and I looked at the manifold last month and noticed small spots of rust in certain areas
I see you used an HVLP so hopefully you have a thicker application so that won't happen
My turbo after application
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/ph...g-6228&cat=500
do you have an aluminum oil pan! bad a$$!
When I bought my mandrel swingvalve from rob (shadow), the coating lasted about a year or so and the SV started to rust a little bit and it's showing through.
Brian Slowe made it for me and did a awesome job.
Last edited by GLHS320; 01-24-2015 at 11:56 PM.
Last edited by GLHS320; 05-05-2015 at 09:46 PM.