How much is that flaring tool? That would save me so much time.
Your OCD is amazing,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Sorry somehow i missed your post. The manufacture advertise price is $699.00, we sell it for a lot less but unfortunately I'm not allowed to put it in print. It's against MAP guidelines (manufacture advertise price). It blows the Mastercool hydraulic flaring out of the water in speed and flares a line in about 10 seconds.
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Took out the old Koni's and as you can see I did a decent amount of shimming on the springs and shock mounts. The shock on the left was on the drivers side and put extra shims to put additional weight on the pass side front this setup worked very well for what it was.
Put the Koni coil over shocks together and installed them and the trailing arm. Not an easy task when you've solo and trying not to scratch anything. Big shot out to Jonny at Poly Bushings for great service and delivery times on my last minute purchase to get the Koni's together.
Made a spanner wrench before I put the shocks in to make it easier to adjust them. It will get powder coated when I do the next batch. It's not pretty but it will do the job.
A few shots of the trailing arm back in the vehicle.
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Looks great. Can you post more pics/details of the fuel system?
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I definitely will in the next day or so. These pics were only a test to figure out what is going on with my Tapatalk app.
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I apologize for the extremely long delay on responding to your question. The depth of the sump box is 1 5/8" deep which turned out to be a huge expensive mistake. My goal was to keep it level with the rear trailing arm so it wasn't sitting below it as the car was sitting. Ultimately I wanted to attach the fuel filter to the fitting mounted directly on the sump box for a cleaner and lighter installation but the filter was two wide to clear the fuel tank and it was the narrowest I could find which I believe is 2" in diameter. It would have worked if the sump box was 2" deep. You can reference Lengal's build log for the way it should be done. He has a deeper sump and cleaner plumbing. I ended up doing two separate orders from Summit to get the right combination of fittings which shot the build cost on this section through the roof compared to what it should be. I opted for the fuel filter with a 1/4turn shut off valve so I can service the whole system without having to drain the tank. It was over twice the money but worth the price. I fabricated the fuel pump mounting bracket in a way that would allow me to use existing mounting holes near the trailing arm bracket. It's not pretty, I smoothed it the best I could then power coated it. At the end of the day you have to be under the car to see it. The tank had three holes drilled and then the sump was welded to it. This way the fuel falls in the sump through the holes on the bottom of the tank and is much harder to slosh out under spirited driving. The filter bracket is a modified plumbing pipe hanger bought from HD and powder coated.
More pics coming...
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Last edited by GLHS320; 11-25-2016 at 08:28 AM.
It's been a crazy year, sold my house, started a new job and my buddy showed up with his 28' Velocity for us to install hydraulic steering and other modifications. I made him drill the holes in the hull, it was a stressful time since the stringers were right near the holes. One wrong move and things would go extremely wrong. I forgot to take pictures of the finished product.
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Last edited by GLHS320; 11-25-2016 at 08:30 AM.
A last minute decision to have the engine compartment painted. Stripped everything, then cleaned the heck out of it. Unfortunately I ran out of time to get it painted before I had to move and it still hasn't been done.
The rear trim panel was cracked when I put the Koni coil overs in, one of the tabs was in pieces. Q-Bond in a amazing product and was able to fix everything.
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Last edited by GLHS320; 11-25-2016 at 08:31 AM.
LOL I asked FWDP about a spanner wrench and was told I didn't need one, nor was one offered. Funny, for $1500 you would think a $2 piece of metal wouldn't be such a big deal.
Nick G. 1984 Dodge Rampage
Still playing catch up from last year. Since the new house would need a lot of work and 320 would be on hold a perfect storm brewed. I sold my first GLHS #669 to buy 320 from my best friend Jeff since it was cleaner. Sold 669 to a friend of ours and Jeff bought it from him about 11yrs ago. He had it painted and we built the motor using the race head and intake I used on it back when I owned it plus some other goodies. Then he traded it for a sweet 1964 Dodge 440 a couple years ago. Then in July last year the owner decided to sell it so it was time to bring my first born back home.
GLHS#669
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Jeff's wife bought a intercooler for him on Christmas and he never installed it. I forgot all about it until I found it at the bottom of a bin full of parts that came with the car. So I had to install it while I was still packing the old house. Of course I had to modify the intercooler and piping for better flow.
A little powder coating and black oxided the bolts.
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Seriously cool build.
Cleared out the old garage and washed 320 just before we moved it to her new home. Of course it rained towing it to the new garage.
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The twins getting acclimated to their new home. 28x40 garage with a loft that needs a little work to get it in working action.
Picked up my unicorn that I wanted to add to the other lighted sign.
The sign it will be joining.
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I love the garage accouterments.