It's juts place holders. where I want a pic. I wasn't going to add them until I knew what all I need. IE, after I finish the text.Originally Posted by acannell
It's juts place holders. where I want a pic. I wasn't going to add them until I knew what all I need. IE, after I finish the text.
Read it again, I updated a bit. I wrote it from the perspective of NOT promoting my own stuff; at least not exclusively. If you want to go and buy your own FTDI cable, that's what you need to do to get it to work. If you do a search here for 'FTDI' what you'll find is mostly guys NOT using the FTDI cable and having trouble because they don't understand the basics of how our ECU's communicate and think it can just talk to a PC. So, I wanted to explain why the FTDI is better, and how to set it up if you want to go pure DIY.
I did just add a bit about the BB cable, though. Gotta show where the value added is
I aggree, that's why I encourage everyone to buy my stuffMPROG is going way over the head of many very smart TM folks who know engines, cars, and lots of other stuff, but not computers. There needs to be clear/easy path to avoid it entirely IMO.
It's really no different than MP Scan.I think MPSCANDROID should have its own setup article.
For now, though, I'm only writing about the cable setup. That's where the problems start.
It's not that technical. And I want people to understand why you can't simply plug the ECU into a PC serial port...Technical details of the SCI bus should be in its own article.
I don't think I can make it simpler and still work.The article for getting MPSCAN to talk to the ECU should be solely that and as simple as possible. Written for the absolute novice in computers, ECU, and tuning. No extraneous information.
Feel free. This is the setup procedure I follow for every cable I sell.We should "test" this procedure by reviewing 89tonava's thread on TD and see if the procedure would fix what he went through.
Feel free to post comments on the 'discussion' tab on the wiki. Needs to make sure that works...
I could snap screenshots for you for each step if you'd like to focus on other things.
Yeah, go for it...
Okay, so I have been doing a lot of reading and trying to determine what I actually have to buy to start. I have a 91 Spirit RT, which is SBEC, but my brother is also wanting to learn for his 87 CSX, which is LM. I was originally going to get the Flash module for mine and buy the cable from Rob, but was changing my mind to just getting a burner and changing out the chips that way we both can learn and burn. What burner would I need to burn both the 87C257 for the SBEC and the LM, I've read that the Willem EPROM will and the Burn2 won't. Any and all advice is appreciated.
For the 87C257, I'd get a Willem.
An alternate way, is to get a latch board (http://www.boostbutton.com/store/en/...tch-board.html) for the SBEC. Then you can both use the same chips (27SF512) and the Moates Burn2.
Something that is probably way more advanced than most people would need to know, but I think is interesting and good to know to understand the real clockwork going on in the computer is have some sort of visual representation of what tables interact/affect each other. Something that Ken (5digits) has brought up in the past is that in order to really nail down street drivability you have to know where to look to change the right thing.
I think it would also be beneficial to have a "dictionary" for the terms/tables/table names so that people can understand what exactly they are changing. The one that has always bugged me is the "pumping efficiency". I've seen many many descriptions of what this is, and it's obviously VERY important, but what exactly is it? Personally I don't like arbitrarily changing things without understanding what it is that I'm changing and why.
Do I think that is super important to include into a basic how-to wiki? No. I do think that it should still be done and either be an appendix to the wiki or have a link to where the information is.
Great ideas.
Along the same lines as a glossary, a timeline showing the history of modifying chrysler cals would be interesting. I.e. DCAL, ostrich, moates, etc...when things came out and what their status is. Perspective would help make informed choices and know why certain things are better.
Here's a start - http://www.boostbutton.com/turbonato...hp?id=glossary
MPSCAN level 2:
MPTUNE level 2a: and level 2b:
I started using it probably 4-5 years ago. I've used it most on my 91 Daytona 16v Hybrid with a BB Flashable SBEC. I also have a chipped computer in my 88 Shadow that is just scaled for +40's and a 3bar, and a flashable SMEC in my 89 Spirit. I will be hopefully doing more indepth tuning on the 91 this coming year so I'm going to keep up with this thread.
The more I read to try and figure this crap out the more confused I get and am reluctant to try and blow a good motor up.
well you're probably just as likely to blow up a motor without having a good grip on the cal and monitoring knock so at least you can call it even chances either way lol
The cal that's in it has cel enabled for knock and I have a wideband. It's way rich at idle and on the verge of lean at wot. Half throttle breaks up. Have a flashable cal but I haven't installed the cable yet because I dont feel im ready to tune myself. And the car is for sale and wanna sell it with a good motor.
That is normal for every Turbonator cal I ever downloaded and use without modification.
I always adjust these two tables to fix the issue.
It was a custom cal from rob but I have an interesting bunch of parts on the car so it was a guess. Might have to try it once it's warmer out. To cold for this guy. It idles about 11.5 and I don't even have the fuel pressure where I want it yet lol looks like my old diesel in the snow.
Now all I need to figure out how to datalog so that I can actually see where I'm rich or lean its hard to watch the wideband and drive along with the tach
thanks for the reply.
I throw in a couple of cents here that folks may or may not like.
Everyone's talking about data log this, data log that. You absolutely need this, or that, or no you don't.
I've been doing this for close to 10 years now and I don't know much, but here's what I've got for folks who haven't done this before and want to be successful right out of the gate. There will be nothing whiz bang about this. The local kids won't think you're cool. Nothing will happen super fast which is a good thing IMO. You also won't need anything but a chip burner, a ZIF socket, and chips as far as real equipment.
Phase I - Get your crap together:
1. Get chips and a burner.
2. You need at least an AFR and boost gauge that you can look at. Having the CEL flash on kock is ideal too.
3. Have a pencil and paper handy if you're forgetful.
Phase II - Burn a cal and prepare thy chariot
1. Set up a base Turbonator cal for your injectors and map sensor. Insert into ZIF socket in the proper orientation.
2. Set your boost to as low as it can go. If you can disconnect the WG flapper even better.
Phase III - Begin tuning
1. Find a long stretch of straight road.
2. Pick a gear that'll let you run at 2K RPM without getting arrested.
3. Go WOT while modulating the brakes to hold at 2K RPM for as close to one minute as possible. Watch your AFR and boost. If you get close to 12:1 let off and making note of your boost and AFR. If the CEL starts to flash let off and make a note of it.
4. Drive home.
Phase IV - Make adjustments
1. Unless you have a really wild setup you'll just need to adjust the pumping table. If you were lean move the table up at 2K if you were rich, move it down.
2. If you had some knock move the WOT timing table down some at the boost and or RPM you were running. IMO this is highly unlikely.
Phase V - Wash rinse repeat
1. Unless your AFR etc. was perfect double check yourself.
2. Once you have everything looking good at 2K do the same thing again at 3K. etc. etc. Since you're riding the brakes you can pick any gear which is nice.
3. Now start upping the boost and doing this again watching your AFR and keeping an eye out for that CEL.
Note that I've never run really fast at the track, and I've never put down a bunch of power on a Dyno. I do have way over 100K miles on my own cals with exceptional driveability and even better mileage. Anyone with no experience tuning can't go wrong here. If something bad happens it was bound to happen anyway and most likely mechanical or electrical in nature.
One of the most important things I've only seen mentioned once or so in this thread is the tuning log. If you don't keep a log of what you're doing and why you're doing it wou WILL be chasing your tail. When I make an entry in my log it includes the date, weather conditions ESPECIALLY THE TEMP and what exact change I've made along with the reasoning behind it. Do this with EVERY CHANGE and you will save a ton of frustration and heartache.
I need help with the 'prepare thy chariot' part
IMO that's the hardest part. Our vehicles are old enough now that electrical and mechanical gremlins can be the toughest thing. If you think you're chasing something with the cal, but you're actually having a problem with a bad alternator, coil, or FP life is going to be hard for you.I need help with the 'prepare thy chariot' part
Yup. This is one of the reasons I suggest getting datalogging going..helps troubleshoot your platform before you ever use it for power-tuning.
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