Trying to get the most from my log intake T1 85 lebaron help.

[TopGunRMNP]

Hello again, I have contacted a few sites and members and have been notified to upgrade my distributor to an 86 or newer since it's larger. That should be easy enough.

What I need help with is what wiring modifications do I need to make to my LM in order to allow it to accept a tune via chip? I can't find anything in the search.

Also, what plug, wire, and gap is preferred? I run NGK iridium in my SRT4.

Finally, is there a how to intercool a log style intake without welding? With the increase boost in the tune I know I'll need to make the air cooler.

[zin]

As I'm sure most will agree, the way to go is to do a full upgrade to 87 electronics and blow-through intake. Then all the "standard" upgrades (intercooler, etc) are very straight forward.

If you want to keep with the log/draw-through system, you're in for an uphill battle, but anything is possible. The computer is the easy part, it's mods will be the same as for an 87, socket the LM and burn a calibration. The calibration would probably be easiest to get through Rob at BoostButton, and he can socket the LM for you too.

I'm all for a challenge, and will be working with a log intake (or at least log-looking) build, but if you can skip over the Log induction and get into a more "modern" induction system, you'll be a much happier person, with easier mods and more HP...

I'm only messing with the log because I have to deal with the smog Nazis here in SoCal...

There are Direct Connection intercooling kits, if you can find one, they cut the end of the intake off and weld a hose connection and mount the cooler over the valve cover, decidedly NOT the ideal placement for an intercooler!

In my opinion, if you want to up the boost while you still have the log style intake, add water injection, it's quite effective at staving off detonation.

Also, if you'd just like a little more power and not have to do more than update the distributor, take a look around for a Mopar Performance/Direct Connection upgraded computer. They'll up the boost to the max safe level and no other mods are required...

Plugs are a matter of opinion, seems everyone has their pet plug, new and clean seem to work the best for me! I'd start with factory gaps, wider might get you a little bit more performance, but not too much.

Mike

[TopGunRMNP]

I'll be ordering a STG2 LM from FWDperformance that states: 14 pounds boost, revised spark and fuel curves, modified wastegate tables for faster spool up. O2 feedback, active knock retard, increased rev limiter and over boost protection provided. Revised fan schedules for better cooling. Great for stock or slightly modified turbo 1 cars with stock or 803 injectors, stock map sensor,and stock or larger exhaust
All our calibrations are socketed at no added expense

I'll be keeping the 85 distributor to use this new LM and should feel some decent gains. They lady said I could buy an 86 STG2 87 etc if I were to swap out the distributor to an 86+, but she hasn't heard of a good reason to switch. On the forum here I have been told several times to swap for the 86 distributor, what are the benefits?

So going along with the 85 Dist, and 85 STG2 LM at 14psi, I feel like that's a ton of boost regardless of the parameters being adjusted in the new STG2 tune, I want this air to get cooler and don't want to weld in an IC. If I were to setup a water injection, how exactly does that work? Does it spray externally over the intake tubing and turbo, wouldn't that warp? It doesn't spray inside like methanol injection right? How much power gain can I expect after cooling the temp down some, and how much would it cool down compared to a small custom IC on the log?

Then for alowing more air, I don;t see a reason to put a CAI custom in it, does the K&N really provide that much more flow than whatever off brand is in the Lebaron now? Which way should I pick?

[zin]

If the air filter is good quality, it should be fine.

Water injection is the same thing as methanol injection. Both inject into the airstream (most often after the turbo), in the case of the log style, somewhere between the filter housing and the turbo inlet.

Technically neither make power as such, rather they absorb heat allowing higher cylinder pressures (boost) before detonationoon sets in. Pure water does this best, but alcohol helps the evaporation.

No good reason to switch the distributor unless you are going to switch to the newer electronics/intake system.

Go with that computer and give it a good tune up, and you'll be happy with it, for a while, till you need more power. 😈

[looneytuner]

85 has smaller head studs. I don't want to discourage you, but be advised Mopar went to bigger head studs in 87 for a reason. If you want a reliable car, I would stick with stock till you have the money to go with a later block.

[GLHNSLHT2]

the 11mm change was a late 85 model year change, he may or may not have them. For the mild boost #'s he wants to run I wouldn't worry about changing them. If he really want to run the 11mm studs they can be done in car if the hood is removed and you're careful. Did it on my GLHT years ago

[Vigo]

If i remember correctly i've run 18 psi on a stockish t2 setup with the 85 headbolts. I don't think they are a big issue unless you are going for major power.

[DevoBuzz]

Been running 18 psi on my t2 conversion with 10mm headbolts for 2 years without issues.

[TopGunRMNP]

I don't plan on making more than 200hp in the Lebaron, just want a little more fun for around town and to make noise and turn heads haha. I have the SRT-4 for when I want to go fast. So I will be going with the Stage 2 LM from FWD running 14psi and all other parameters changed with a cat delete and no muffler. I'm just looking for the ideal way to cool the air down in the summer months, spray or a custom IC, I guess I could bring it somewhere to get weld work done, just not sure of how to route it. I'll keep reading up on what others have done. Thanks guys!

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

when you buy your LM be sure to check what distribuator they say to use

with a log intake and 12-14 #'s you don't really need to intercool it unless you wanted to turn the boost up more than that

I ran a log motor for 6 summers with 12#'s - never hurt a piston (rod bearings , diff story)

K&N air filter is a waste of money - search instead for an accel power filter - it drops right into the stock sfilter box and will give noteable better responce to your right foot
it's not going to go fastr but you would feel a "cleaner opening " of the throttle
this filter is long discontinued but there's still a few out there to be had
difference is the accel one is foam not "paper"

if you live in an area of large steep hills I might go for one of MP's old 314 slider cams

they don't do much on flat ground but point the car up a good long steep hill and it makes a huge difference

a good quality head gasket is more important than the larger head bolts which you really shouldn't need for this "mild" build

[ajakeski]

If you search you may find a 46mm throttle body for engine. I don't think anyone is making them anymore, but they show up on the forum for sale every once in a while.

You may also want to look into a better flowing 2.5 inch exhaust system and a 2,5 inch swing valve. If you're really going to get involved, invest in a ported exhaust manifold too.
A good flowing exhaust system is one of the best improvements you can make to a turbo car.

An underdrive crank pulley is also good for 5 HP.

I built my GLH with the original log intake, a ported exhaust manifold, 2.5 inch swing valve and exhaust, underdrive pulley and a FWD Performance Stage II logic module. It ran great.

Later I installed a Spearco underhood intercooler kit, 46mm throttle body and a Stage III logic module. It ran even better and made plenty of power.

14.5 second quarter mile times on street tires.

[TopGunRMNP]

Sweet suggestions, thanks guys! I'll look into that filter and yes, I will be driving this to and from Colorado State University (4,800' elevation) to Estes Park, CO (8,000' elevation) and if there's a cam to make that a more pleasurable or easier trip then i will look into that as well. REALLY wish the mpg wasn't so absolutely horrible! I get 38MPG in my 400hp SRT-4 on 91oct HWY, goodness.

[GLHNSLHT2]

That's the MPG you can get if you don't have only 3spds and a old non-lockup torque converter.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

power filters :
http://gatorperformance.com/catalog_...CELfilters.pdf

part number for 2.2 cryco #72101
- fits carb log turbo 2.2 and 2.5 turbo and turbo II up till '89

best of luck finding one - took me a year or two before I found my replacement
(critter built a nest in my parked car and did it in the air box which was the only reason the 14 year old filter needed replacement)

[zin]

Swap to a 5-speed if you want decent milage, the autos suck for millage, and so long as you're not doing alot of stop and go diving, there's not much advantage to the auto.

Mike

[johnl]

50/50 methanol/water injection is the cheapest power adder for that intake.

[TopGunRMNP]

Thanks again guys. Since the Lebaron will now be my 2nd vehicle and the lady is keeping the Dakota, I will likely want to swap a 5spd in in the distant future, I'm sure there's a few How-To's and cutting to be done.

- - - Updated - - -

For now, I'd like as close to 200hp reliably so that I can enjoy myself getting horrible mileage while I commute daily in the vehicle for school.

[zin]

5-speed swap is pretty straight forward once you get the needed parts (pedal group, etc), no cutting should be involved, just bolt in the right parts and add/change the park/neutral safety switch.

Since these cars are getting harder to find in the JY, especially with manual transmissions, and the parts in most places are cheap, keep an eye out for them and grab them when you can, you'll be ahead of the game, and in a worst case scenario, you'll be able to sell them for more than you paid.

Mike

[TopGunRMNP]

Ordering the Stage 2 from FWDperformance, 14psi etc... What precautionary measures are suggested to add to the vehicle to prevent detonation other than the parameters changed in the LM already? Are Autolite AR51's a step colder or no? I have been suggested to purchase them and gap to .035 by a few different people. I would like to IC the log, but I do not weld and am not sure of the psi loss that would happen with an IC on it? Spray perhaps but not sure if I want to go that route. Should I get the Stage1 setup for 12psi to be safe? What does my 85 spike at 7 or 9.5psi now? Is there a how-to: 50/50 injection method and a tested temperature decrease? I found nothing in the search.

[zin]

Run the best gas avaliable.

Cooler plugs are a good idea too, I'm not sure if that's the correct number or not, but a step or two cooler shouldn't foul in city driving and are recommended for heavy loads/highway driving.

Lots of info/opinions on how to do water/meth injection. On the up side, it's hard to over do it, just wasteful. Easiest way to go is to buy a kit, but that's $$.

The cooling isn't something that you can easily measure as it works more as a heat sink, it technically doesn't remove heat like an intercooler does. But don't doubt it's effectiveness, pro modifieds are using it with great results for a variety of reasons.

Mike