It's a needle, and it bounces from 0-45 until I reach 20mph.
It's a needle, and it bounces from 0-45 until I reach 20mph.
I'll be ordering a STG2 LM from FWDperformance that states: 14 pounds boost, revised spark and fuel curves, modified wastegate tables for faster spool up. O2 feedback, active knock retard, increased rev limiter and over boost protection provided. Revised fan schedules for better cooling. Great for stock or slightly modified turbo 1 cars with stock or 803 injectors, stock map sensor,and stock or larger exhaust
All our calibrations are socketed at no added expense
I'll be keeping the 85 distributor to use this new LM and should feel some decent gains. They lady said I could buy an 86 STG2 87 etc if I were to swap out the distributor to an 86+, but she hasn't heard of a good reason to switch. On the forum here I have been told several times to swap for the 86 distributor, what are the benefits?
So going along with the 85 Dist, and 85 STG2 LM at 14psi, I feel like that's a ton of boost regardless of the parameters being adjusted in the new STG2 tune, I want this air to get cooler and don't want to weld in an IC. If I were to setup a water injection, how exactly does that work? Does it spray externally over the intake tubing and turbo, wouldn't that warp? It doesn't spray inside like methanol injection right? How much power gain can I expect after cooling the temp down some, and how much would it cool down compared to a small custom IC on the log?
Then for alowing more air, I don;t see a reason to put a CAI custom in it, does the K&N really provide that much more flow than whatever off brand is in the Lebaron now? Which way should I pick?
I ran a 2 1/2" exhaust, at Stage 3 LM(15lbs boost) from FWD Performance, and used a JY intercooler from a Ford Probe mounted under the hood . The battery was relocated in front of the radiator on the passenger side, which made room for the intercooler. I took the intake manifold to a tig welding shop and had the downturn cut off and welded back on sticking straight out. They charged me $25 for the job. Later, I installed +20 injectors and ran E85 fuel, which gave the times in my sig line, which were run on street tires. I wish I had bought some drag radials or slicks, as it probably would have dropped into the 13's with a better 60' time.
1986 Chrysler Lebaron 2 dr. R.I.P. 2.2 T1 log intake, modified to intercool Best 1/8th 9.03@77mph / Best 1/4 14.16@93.55mph Running on E85:nod:[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] '93 Spirit 2.5 TBI 5 Spd(sold), '85 Ramcharger, 360 4brl, NP435 4 Spd. The new ride; '90 Sundance 2.5 T1/5 spd. FMIC(from Ford Probe) new Mitsu; Best 1/8th 8.96@79.16 / Best 1/4 14.06@101.27
I dug through some old posts from 7-8 years ago, and came up with some of my old runs, comparing alcohol/water injection vs. an intercooler. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ight+drags+PIR
Also some pictures of the intercooled log intake setup; http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...d+Log+is+Alive
1986 Chrysler Lebaron 2 dr. R.I.P. 2.2 T1 log intake, modified to intercool Best 1/8th 9.03@77mph / Best 1/4 14.16@93.55mph Running on E85:nod:[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] '93 Spirit 2.5 TBI 5 Spd(sold), '85 Ramcharger, 360 4brl, NP435 4 Spd. The new ride; '90 Sundance 2.5 T1/5 spd. FMIC(from Ford Probe) new Mitsu; Best 1/8th 8.96@79.16 / Best 1/4 14.06@101.27
There is a physical difference in the 85 distributors. In 86 they went to the newer style and the 86+ cals need it. It's not that there is anything better about the dist, it's about being able to run some of the later cals. This is especially true with the 87 TII electronics. It's not that the computer side is that much better, but that there is better support for it.
The speedo in my 87 Shelby Lancer would bounce like that, and then tick constantly. I had to replace the speedo as it was parts of the speedo hitting eachother on the backside of it.
Like Cordes stated upgrading to the 86+ distributor is only done to match the cals in the 86+ ECU's. Water injection is into the motor. It's used to cool the intake charge. IMO by the time you get done messing around with the upgrades to keep the non-intercooled T1 alive you might as well have just gone the T2 route which gives you reliability and performance. I did my 1st conversion for less than $500 after having to aquire all the parts to do it.
Sure looks like you got some great times with the custom IC over the injection idea, okay injection scrapped. I took a look on eBay and through the FS here and can't find any intake 2 or 1 pieces. I would need the updated intake, updated distributor, then a matching year to the distributor stage 3+ tune fro FWD right?
This covers the basics.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_glhs.html
Like cordes already said, the 86 distributor is swapped to match the 86+ electronics.
Right now, I wouldn't worry too much about intercooling it. Do the cal, drop a K&N filter in it, throw a full exhaust on it and enjoy driving it for a little while.
The car is about 30 years old, and you're about to introduce a decent amount of power. I'd hold off on after this batch and just keep money in case you break it.
As far as ignition, I've been regular copper plugs for years. I've used iridiums and platinums with no degree of success. They worked but there was no benefit to the added cost.
Is this what I need for the turn signals not actuating but staying lit constant when selected? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...315&cc=1064764
No. That is for if the turn signal won't mechanically stay engaged.
Okay, it will click and stay and the lights will stay on constant, when you toggle or jiggle it back on and off it'll act like it's working. I'd rather replace the piece that may be causing this.
I would have to check my cars to see what that piece plugs into and how it actuates the blinking. With all of these that I've ever had the only time I've had it do what you decribe is when one of the bulbs is out.
Would the front fender turn bulb being out do this?
Replaced side marker and the turn signal works fine now, thank you sir! I also replaced my reverse bulbs since they didn't work and it still doesn't. Not sure what it could be, perhaps the fast that the cluster needle doesn't move from P to indicate which gear is selected, maybe the needle gauge has a switch that turns the reverse lights on when the needle is on R? What do I fix? Also, the bouncing speedometer bounces less now after I smacked the dash board on top, it's steady and bounces around only at 0-10 now instead of 0-25. Also in the dash area is the sound of a bell, like a christmas bell. Not sure if it has to do with the bouncing speedometer, but if I could get rid of the ringing dinging that'd be great too!
Here's an updated image of Lebron up to no good.
fatter dist cap moves the terminals apart to help avoid spark scatter inside the cap
the newer dist also has a better pick up / shutter window / rotor design although the plastic melt bungs that hold the shutter wheel in place can fail - but that can happen to either dist
but , although not really important , you can get a tan coloured accel cap for the early dist but not for the latter fat one
never had an issue with the accel cap but the 7mm yellow plug wires are a waste
factory called for champion rn12yc plugs but use rn9yc as they're colder and help prevent detionation
I'm not sure about the reverse bulbs. They are on some circuits which don't make a ton of sense sometimes IMO. IIRC there is a fuse for them in the fuse block under the dash.
As far as the chimes that could be the dinger box or whatever you call it. It is under the dash on the right side in a lot of the cars. You can take it out, but then it won't ding at you when you leave your lights on etc.
I ordered the Stage 2 LM 14psi from FWD today, where is the LM, below the intake box?
It's behind the passenger side kick panel under the dash.