Thank you sir.
Thank you sir.
Recently joined the Turbo Dodge Cars group on FB and there's a fella that's shouting not to buy the FWDperformance Stage LM's. He said he got the STG2 like I want and after 4 different LM's sent to him over a period of months, 1 finally allowed the car to run like crap... Has anyone else had problems like this? I am obviously not in the market for building right now, but for a cheap and easy power boost with reliability to keep me happy with this LeBaron.
Make one, set it to 13psi and enjoy.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ml#post2209414
I don't trust those as far as I can throw the LeBaron. Also, if it's pushing 12 STG1 or 14 STG2 psi, does the turbo have a stock recirculator valve that can handle the pressure?
T1's don't need a BOV or recirculating valve because the TB is before the turbo. So when the throttle closes the compressor see's vacuum only. This is why it's called a Suckthrough system. The Blowthrough systems have the TB after the Turbo, so when the throttle shuts it sends an air pressure wave back through the turbo which tries to stall the compressor and turn it the other way. This is why these systems have a BOV, to vent that pressure and keep the turbo spinning.
You learn something new every day, love this forum thanks! I am doing more review and see many have positive feedback for the FWDp LM's and Cindy that they deal with there...
Not a LM, but I recently got a FWD-P Stage 3 SBEC and it runs my car better than I ever thought possible.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
Who is "Mark Cross" and why is he on my seats and doors?
A leather company. It's kindo of like the Nautica or Eddie Bauer edition cars from the late 90s.Originally Posted by TopGunRMNP
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There's nothing wrong with a grainger valve. I've done it both ways and they both work very well.
Called and go a response from FWDperformance, the Stage 2 1985 LM is on the way. With the gutted stock exhaust, I plan to simply plug in the STG2 LM and add a K&N filter + 1 step colder (ar51 or RN9YC) to try and prevent detonation. With this simple setup would I be looking at 170-180hp?
Secondly, my last 4 tanks have bee 17mpg... Garbage but I guess I have to deal with it in the boring 3spd AUTO, but what HWY speed should I try for to get the best MPG for distance commute, 55MPH?
Lastly, I am removing the top 4 lights since all they do is blind the dashboard when on. I need to figure out why my reverse lights don't work (new bulbs) and how to stop/find the speedometer ringing. Could the ringing just be from the cable that needs lube? It looks like it dings when the needle bounces, but then continues when the needle Is steady.
I'd say that rack adds quite a bit of drag, not that these cars are very aero to begin with. That and it looks like it's cold where you are which kills MPG. Kinda hard to see but I added a 80's Chevy S10 air dam to my old K car to help push air out around the car vs. under it.
Love the AR51 plugs, they're as cold as RN6YC's but because of their design run better than stock.
+1 on the lights killing mpgs. Consumer reports has said that adding an empty bike rack to a camry drops mileage by about 4. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get 25mpg at 55mph with the new cal. It probably has more timing across the board which will really help with mileage in vacuum. I have been told that the factory actually sacrificed some timing in vac in order to beat emissions for federal testing. To me it's pretty apparent where that spot is and where it needs to be in order to get a little more torque and mileage while cruising along.
roger that on the rack, it's pretty useful for us though. LM will be here Monday, now to figure out where under the dash it goes.. I'll give an updated mileage report with the Stg2 + K&N + rn9yc.
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the stock brights on this car are simple amazing, so the top 4 are on my SRTnow, I plan to remove the bumper 2 and fill the holes somehow. Lots of sun fade, so a paint job might be warranted this summer..
If you think the stock brights are good you should relay them and bask in the glory.
Also, the LM is right behind the trim piece below the dash on the right side. You'll need to remove the two whitish color 11mm nuts that hold it in place in order to get it out. One of them is basically right in front of you at the bottom and the other one is hard to see, but in the upper left corner when looking at the LM from inside the car.
Is it in the black duct work or behind one of the tan dash pieces? ?
Negative. It's immediately behind the panel which is under the dash in front of the door.
Found the location and installed. It idled horribly for about 5min after start-up 1, then dropped to a normal sound and steady. I got in and got to the corner, turned onto the road and punched it... The car sputtered, spat, hiccuped, and possibly backfired/detonated. I let off, turned around and tried again but at half gas, same response but with nearly no power. I went past the house and turned around again and stomped it and the car down shifted beautifully, I heard turbo spool louder than stock and took a little longer and then a noticeable push into my seat as it went through 2nd and into 3rd. I turned around and drove it normal back to the house and parked it, when I shifted to P it started idling high for 2min and then dropped to normal. I turned it off.
30min later I got in again for a drive with 3 people, full car. It performed flawlessly with WOT and normal condition. We parked and came back to it 30min later. Started it up and the idle was noticeably high, I waited and it dropped to normal (the idle was sputtering and rough as well) I started driving it normal and it sputtered and stumbled again, then recovered with some half depress and quick let go of the gas pedal and depress again. It then performed well with no WOT as we coasted downhill, I could hear the engine revving more than it should. When we got to the bottom to no longer coast i tried a WOT and it fell flat on its face and almost died.. I parked and turned it on then did normal driving and it stumbled more. We parked again off, and on with high idle then it came back down and I took it to the grocery store and tried a half-depress gas and it stumbled a bit again, I parked it when I got there and it revved high then came back down and I turned it off and shopped. I came back to the car turned it on, high rev then came down, I pulled out of the store and WOT and it performed flawlessly again..."
Do I need to give the FWDperformance STG2 1985 LM more cycles to possibly learn? It is 9,000' where I live so maybe it needs more time? Or should an LM that is written properly work right off the bat, and I need to send this one back for another?
Cindy chimed in on the FB group, going to try a hard reset unplugging battery and the two connectors begins it? Then try again and gradually get into the pedal throughput the day.
Jeeze, give it some time just idling and be easy on it. It takes 5-10 minutes idling on a SMEC/SBEC just for the adaptives to start to work and IIRC correctly longer for the LM stuff. Might need to reset base idle too.
I've always found that my LM stuff takes very little time to learn the idle etc. The SMECS not much more time, but I've had SBEC cals that could take close to 50min of mixed driving before they would be fine. IMO if an LM cal isn't darn close to running right straight away, then it probably won't.
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