I have a small coolant leak on my 89 2.5l T1 shadow that I can't pinpoint on where it is coming from. There's a puddle on top the starter behind the solenoid but I can't see where it's coming from, the block and head are dry in the same area. Any suggestions or common issues?
Thanks for looking.
In that area your two biggest culprits are usually one of the turbo coolant lines or a freeze plug. You'll probably have to pull the starter out to find out.
Thanks for the info, I'll try to get a hold of a pressure tester to help pinpoint the leak. Do you have any thoughts on uv coolant dye?
Last edited by TheJ; 12-11-2014 at 08:38 PM.
I rented a pressure tester and I actually found two leaks. One is at the thermostat housing gasket and the other is a rubber coupler for the turbo cooling line.
Can I repair this rubber piece or do I have to try to find a whole new cooling line?
A shop can take that line and re-crimp it with hose and similar or exact crimp rings. You can use worm clamps for temporary, but I would have someone redo it. should cost a little more, but it will be good for a while.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
What if instead of worm clamps I used the fuel injection style clamps? Or I know it would be more expensive but would going to a braided line be advisable?
Last edited by TheJ; 12-12-2014 at 02:43 AM.
YES do the braided kit and forget about it.
If you don't mind aftermarket lines, TU sells a kit and I know others on the board have had some made at local shops. I want to say the kit from TU is around $75 or so and that comes with oil and coolant lines.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
I went on TU's website and the braided line kit is $150. I don't have that much extra money right now because of the holiday season. I think I'll just repair the rubber part for now. Thanks guys for the info.
So in my haste to find my coolant leak I took this check valve going to the BOV completely off, for some strange reason. Which way do I orient this?
It needs to be able to pull vac away from the BOV. If that's a one way valve make sure that you can suck through the line coming from the end that will go to the vac source.
I don't think this is a one way valve because I can suck but not blow on the pointy end (which has an "S" on it upon closer inspection) but then I can suck and blow on the other end. Does the "S" mean source?
I wonder if your valve is bad?
I don't think it's bad because the there is a little filter that it draws the air from when I suck on the non pointy one side. In order for the BOV to work it needs vacuum but not pressure correct? If that's the case then I will put the pointy end to the intake manifold.
Some BOVs need pressure to stay closed. It's been years since I've had a stock BOV on a TM so I can't really recall how they function.Originally Posted by TheJ
Maybe someone else will chime in, or do you think I should start a new thread?
I would probably start a new thread so that the guys who actually know about them see it. Of course I'm sure that Todd or someone will be along right after I post this to break it down for us.
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