I've got a 2.5 TBI common block I'm going to build up but going 2.2 cast crank. Is it better to drill a hole in the block or oil pan for the turbo drain? What's the best oil pan and pickup to use?
I've got a 2.5 TBI common block I'm going to build up but going 2.2 cast crank. Is it better to drill a hole in the block or oil pan for the turbo drain? What's the best oil pan and pickup to use?
I vote to drill the block if the turbo is in a stockish location. It's a sturdier place to mount an oil drain, and it's well above the axles.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
That's what I'm leaning towards. Just drill it and tap for a hose fitting and use a longer turbo drain hose. It is a stock turbo setup.
Actually the stock fitting is only pressed in. I drilled mine to the OE size (cannot remember what that is). Then I took a steel AN adapter, i think 1/2" NPT to 10an an or something like that, turned down the NPT side to a press fit into the block and tapped it in place with a plastic hammer. That gave me plenty of room to use a nice 10an drain hose.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
I will have to pull the engine out of the shed and take a look at it. Should I use a CB 2.5 oil pan and pickup?
I have only put an oil return into the oil pan one time (when i turbod the tbi engine in my 90 van 'in the car') but you do have to be very careful about clearing the axle. On the other hand, drilling the block is almost stupid proof as far as placement. Now, whether or not you know how to drill metal without burning up bits is the only 'hard' part. If you can do that i'd say drill the block.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
i drilled the block and used 2.5 pan and pickup with my 2.2 build... but that drill bit is pretty big, i got a cheap set from harbor freight and it got the job done, i think i started with a uni bit to get a good starting point for the harbor drill to take over... i also used the "stock" press in oil drain but wished i would have used a thread in hose barb instead, but the press in type "flows" more because the larger inside diameter...
If the press in insert is not tight it becomes a silicone-in or a jbweld-in insert. No biggie. There's no load on it.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
FWIW, when I had that done the machine shop only charged me something like $18 bucks to drill the hole and press in the tube. You'll spend close to that or more on a reasonable quality drill bit in that size.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
why? I liked the extra quart of oil I could put in it. are you concerned about the "extra" oil that could flow up the sides in hard corning?I'd only use the 2.5 pan if it's properly baffled, or if you are keeping the balance shafts
The original 2.5 cb pan looked pretty similar to the 2.2 non cb pan.
The 2.5 pan without balance shafts in it lets oil slosh around like crazy. Not a big problem if you dont corner hard.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I used a 2.2 tbi bock when I rebuilt mine. 1/2in npt black pipe is the correct OD for the turbo drain and works great.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
True. Any year Common Block pan that came without balance shafts (basically any 2.2 except the TIII) will have the sump depression and the bottom panels angled towards it, as opposed to the 2.5/balance shaft pans being perfectly flat. Just make sure you get the correct pickup tube for the oil pump.
I don't think it will be too difficult to weld in some simple baffles in.
Check out post number 103...that was on a deep sump, non common block pan, which is very similar to a non balance shaft common block pan in design. This has worked great for me. Multiple high rpm autocrosses, no oil issues at all.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ht=grm+scaries
I'd do #2.
MinivanRider
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...age#post453595
Post # 2203
I built this one with simple trap doors and a windage screen in a balance shaft/common block pan. I actually use a non balance shaft pick up in this pan. When I measured the difference in height, it was barely anything and I figured with the baffles and screen for oil control, it would not present a problem. This pan has been also seen a ton of autocross, street and drag abuse with no oil issues at all.