Knock Sensor removal woes...

[85_600]

Mine's broke but I didn't do it

So, this is on a T1 one piece intake setup. I've looked it over and it appears that I either have to remove the fuel rail/injectors OR, the valve cover. The valve cover is no big deal since I have to take it off for some valve train inspection.

Any ideas on this subject would be great!

Thanks!
Paul

[mark]

knock sensor is in the block

[tryingbe]

Knock sensor is in the intake manifold, between number 2 and 3 runner.

[mark]

posted before thinking. doH!

for some reason i pictured a 2.2 with a knock sensor in the front. I was reading about someone here with an SDS setup with a GM knock sensor who has it mounted to the block

i need to re-read my internet use application fine print about rules about thinking before posting.

[Subliminal]

Just undo the 2 bolts holding the rail on, swing it over to the side, stick some channel locks on there, and take it off.

It's a rather quick/easy job, actually...so don't sweat it.

[85_600]

Just undo the 2 bolts holding the rail on, swing it over to the side, stick some channel locks on there, and take it off.

It's a rather quick/easy job, actually...so don't sweat it.

When you say "swing" do you mean the injectors as well? On the spare rail I have the injectors are attached to it. Just checking.

Thanks!
Paul

[lametec]

Yes, injectors too. Unbolt the two bolts holding the rail in place, then lift it (with injectors still attached to it) up and swing it out of the way. No need to remove the fuel hoses or anything either.

[85_600]

One more question about this. Do the injectors come out of the intake easier than the rail?

I'm asking because on the spare rail I have, when I pulled one of the injectors out I had to put the rail on the floor and stand on it with both feet and use both hands to pull the injector free from the rail. The O ring was still rubbery, but it did stay in the rail. I don't need to be loosing any O rings into the intake or need to stand on the motor to take the rail out

Thanks!
Paul

[89turbomini]

The best way is to pull the rail and injectors out of the manifold as one. They will probably be in there tight just wiggle them back and fouth alittle. Then when u put them back in dip you finger in fresh motor oil and give the o-rings some lube. It will make them go in much easier and keep them from ripping in half

[85_600]

The best way is to pull the rail and injectors out of the manifold as one. They will probably be in there tight just wiggle them back and fouth alittle. Then when u put them back in dip you finger in fresh motor oil and give the o-rings some lube. It will make them go in much easier and keep them from ripping in half

It would probably be a good idea to shop vac the area down in there beforeahnd as well Knowing my luck I'd have "something" drop down in there. That would be ALL I would need now.

Thanks again!
Paul

[85_600]

Just an FYI: I know stuff is metric on TD's but the closest size socket I found for this sensor is a 1 1/16th standard socket. I was able to remove the one from my log with an adjustable wrench but I'll need to buy the socket to get the one off of the car.

Thought this might help someone out.

[MiniMopar]

Not everything is metric...LOL.

[85_600]

Not everything is metric...LOL.

I was wondering about this. That socket I test fitted on the log sensor was rather tight. Almost like it really was 1 1/16th.

Thanks,
Paul

[WVRampage]

When I replaced mine I think it came out real easy with the rail and valve cover on with the 1 1/16th socket,Its been a while so I cant remeber real well,the rail and injectors may have been out.

[Clay]

yeah, on my knock sensor I used a standard socket.

[MiniMopar]

Other non-metric stuff: splash gaurd bolts, metal can style relay mounting bolts, all nuts/bolts on the old-style ignition coil. I'm sure there's more...