Let the daughter try driving a stick today. She missed 4th, tried putting it into 4th again with out the clutch before I grabbed it and just held it in neutral till she had the clutch in. We stopped and swapped and 3rd is really hard to get in and out of. There's no grinding of the gears and the gear is there. But it's like the shifter cable is siezing up, But 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th and reverse are fine. It's just in and out of 3rd gear.
any ideas?
fork pads maybe
hmmm, those are probably a real pain to fix huh?
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Oh I forgot to mention. If I shift into it fast it doesn't seem to be affected at all.
Will it shift through the gears with the engine off or 3rd still an issue? Odd that a missed shift into 4th would effect a gear going the other direction. Did she really yank on the shifter maybe slipping the adjustment nut?
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
yea feels the same engine on or off. Nut looks pretty centered. what's odd to me is that 1 and 5 still feel normal. Gonna yank the cables off at the ends tomorrow and see if it shifts by hand at the trans ok.
My bet is bent 3-4 shift fork. In time, the pads will probably wear half off.
hmmm, but wouldn't 4th gear then suffer as well??
If you lost one half of one 3/4 pad then it could put the shift fork on a bind in one direction.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
well darnit, pulled the shifter cable off, it's definately inside the trans. Now i need to figure out how I want to deal with it.
Relax and don't scare the daughter away from driving a manual?
Sounds like a bent shift fork or bad fork pads as others have said.
oh she's already said she's wanted an Auto from way before she got behind the wheel. If she could just get the start down she'd be fine. Was hoping she'd get it down and the car would be ok till then. But now I'll probably have to buy a clutch (3 puck solid hub) and put my 523 in it and a bunch of other race parts to where it'd be really hard to drive as a learning car. It's hard enough with a stock car with the AIS programming shut off in the ECU but it's a good learning setup if she just calms down about it a bit.
I always start teaching people to drive manual with clutch engagement. They can't use the gas. Just get the car rolling. Even with a ceramic clutch I have had success using this method.
Easiest step to a manual car if available is a fully manual 4 wheeler. Clutch, shifting, etc all can be learned here and can teach/program you to the basics of multitasking all fourapendages while driving. But thats an off topic discussion. As far as your issue goes, Id have to agree that a pad just happened to pop/break off or the fork got bent, unfortunately.
Except that most fully manual 4 wheelers will go 60+ in half a breath if you don't loop it first, not too great for a beginner... I learned first on a worn out Toyota that needed almost WOT to get moving, then a Dodge 3500 Cummins that you could slowly let the clutch out in third with no throttle and it would walk away. Everything else has been somewhere in between those two.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
Most people starting out dont have a penchant for going full speed on the first go. If you do I wouldn't want you in a car anyway.
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