need wiring and emissions system help desperately

[Xtrempickup]

Im piecing back together a 85 turbo 1 gbody engine bay harness that was modified to run on a 86/87 glhs t2 lm. I seem to have all the wiring, but im sure i dont have things hooked up right. First thing i dont know is if this should have a 1 wire o2 sensor or a 3 wire. And if its a 3 wire im not sure how to wire it in. Next is the map has been moved from the LM to under the hood. Its been wired into the lm plugs and im not sure whats correct or not. The motor runs, but very poorly. Then i gotta start building a vacuum harness to attach to all the appropriate sensors. I bought an aftermarket vacuum block and started connecting stuff. Im honestly unsure what is supposed to have its own dedicated vacuum source and what could possibly share by way of a tee. I have a haynes manual and a chrysler tech manual but neither is for a glhs unfortunately. If you can get a good deal from Target Ad, never miss that.

[onerippinturbo2]

the 85 had 1 wire o2 sensor, there was also a tsb from mopar about moving the map sensor to under the hood to prevent the map line from moisture buildup and freeze up in winter weather causing driveway start and stalling.

[iTurbo]

The '85 uses a 1-wire O2, but you can use the 3-wire with a little modification. You would need to add the 3-wire O2 plug, and splice in the original 1-wire connection to it, and then splice in the other two additional wires. The other two wires consist of a +12v feed off of the "Z1" feed. This is normally a black/green wire and supplies power to the fuel pump, ignition coil and 3-wire O2 sensor heater element. The other additional wire is usually black and is spliced into the "power ground" circuit, but grounding it to the fuel rail bolt should work fine.

I have never personally relocated a MAP underhood myself, but generally it would consist of 5 wires to splice in. 3 for the MAP sensor, and 2 more for the baro-read solenoid. If these wires were spliced in near the logic module, it should be OK..

As far as the vacuum block, I like the ones from McMaster-Carr. I usually install them directly to the intake manifold. I just recently installed a 3-port block on an '85 TI engine. The only things you really need to run the engine are the fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor, and a port for boost control. That is what I run off the distribution block on my '85 TI engine, plus another port for an aftermarket vac/boost gauge. I have deleted the EGR and capped most of the ports on the throttle body with vinyl caps. I run the PCV system totally stock though.

Hope this helps.

[Xtrempickup]

I have a port on the vacuum block for the fpr, a port for the map and a port for the purge and barosolenoid. I have the baro and purge split off the 1 port. The waste gate actuator runs off of what? I know its off one of the sensors. The o2 sensor i know one wire is a ground, thats the easy, i have the 1 in the stock wiring for the 1 wire. What he used for tje other power i dont know but have an idea after i check the blue wire thats hanging that was cut from the harness and its laying unconnected. is the throttle body supposed to have a vacuum source also of the vacuum block? im running the stock pcv system off the vacuum block with stock t2 grommet and the one side is open on it because i dont have the airbox in. should i plug it?

[iTurbo]

Here's a picture of the vacuum block I installed on my Omni. It is about as simplified a vacuum line system as you can possibly run. It is coupled directly to the intake manifold using the same 3/8" NPT the stock black plastic vacuum distribution piece was located. The top ports from left to right are: MAP sensor, FPR, grainger valve, and one additional port on the side you can barely see the nylon line for the vac/boost gauge goes just under the throttle cable bracket. The PCV system remains 100% stock. The EGR, purge, and wastegate control lines and funtionality have been completely deleted, although I do still keep the solenoids plugged in electrically.

Attachment 52022

[Xtrempickup]

cant view the attachment, says invalid

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

presumeing your converted to glhs lm your running a blow through system , you can add in your vac / boost gauge at the throttle body

hose on top going to the driver's side with the red convolute is my boost gauge - worked fine from this location

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/mem...-000-0006.html

[Xtrempickup]

my throttle body only has one port on top. shouldnt it have a vacuum source to the vacuum block?

[ajakeski]

All that should have been modified on the harness when it was converted for GLHS electronics is two wires for the TurboII Style AIS (Automatic Idle Speed motor) should have been added to the red logic module connector at position 20 and 16. You should be able to unplug these two wires from the logic module connector and pull them out of the harness back to the throttle body.



At the throttle body there should be a 5 way plug that connects the AIS and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) wiring to the main harness. It's near the driver's side strut tower.
Unplug this harness and set the whole thing aside in case you want to convert to Turbo II some day.



The original AIS / TPS sensors and harness should plug back into the main harness.

I would leave the MAP sensor mounted in the engine bay. Chrysler found there were condensation issues during cold weather with the internal MAP so they moved it to the engine bay in 1987.
If you have the logic module MAP mounted in the engine compartment, look for a 1987 and later style MAP. These were more rugged and designed to be in the engine bay.

Here's the 1985 Turbo I vacuum routing diagram.

You can find even more electrical and vacuum information here:

http://minimopar.net/index.html

[Xtrempickup]

Im running t2, im trying to figure wire colors and what they are from the large connector at the firewall. I received them from Naj, i was looking for vacuum routing to do everything off the vacuum block i bought.