1991 Spirit r/t. Running t3/t4 hybrid and some unknown custom cal and +20 injectors. Trying to get more I do on cal from previous owner. Car was running good, I have a grainger valve on it. Was boosting to 12 psi and wanted to bump up the boost. Adjusted Grainger valve, now it will hit 14-15 psi then drop back down, but it feels like its surging a little under boost and just doesn't feel like it's pulling as well.
What are you using to monitor air/fuel? Could be detonation or leaning out real bad.
Nothing as of right now. I have an AEM UEGO in my dual gauge pod, just need to get a bung welded into my exhasut for the O2 sensor.
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New issues started today thought with some rocker tapping.
You really shouldn't have turned the boost up without any monitoring of fuel whatsoever...that's dangerous. Hope you didn't break anything man.
I don't have the boost turned up any higher than what the cal is written for. It's not like I'm cranking it to 20psi. It peaks at 14, but if I stay WOT, usually only goes to 12.
You might be flowing more air than what the cal was written for and running lean, or the cal might have too much timing advance and detonating. The point was, you turned up the boost while completely blind on how your air/fuel mixture is....a recipe for disaster.
You want to know why your car is surging, and running lean will make it surge, you have to eliminate this as a possibility before moving on. It could be running so rich it's bogging it out too, you have no clue what it's doing until you check.
Well if it was running that lean, or rich, you would be able to see it on the spark plugs. No sign of it running lean on the plugs. I'm not a total newb. More than one way to skin a cat when checking for proper fuel delivery.
Plug reading only really works if you do a WOT run, shut it off, coast and check them.
I agree with Matt, your playing russian roullette running aftermarket turbo's and cals without monitoring AF. You have no idea if the cal is even working correctly, REGARDLESS of what psi its rated for. Trust me, I've done the blind thing and the results aren't pretty.
I also agree it sounds like your leaning out. You can take our advice or simply keep doing what your doing and eventually, when/if you melt something, you'll know what it was.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
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Checked fuel pressure today. Reads good at idle, but discovered the pressure regulator had fuel leaking out the vacuum port, so installed the extra one that I got with my Daytona. Also found out #4 spark plug wire was arcing to the head through a pinhole in the plug boot. Fixed that. Test drive to come.
Sounds like that's gonna be your problem(s). Your regulator crapped out and wasn't adding pressure with boost. You were just running lean, test drive will probably be all fixed
But dude seriously, get some gauge on there even if it's just a dawes....better than nothing at all.
You 2 know your poopi mat& simon
So took it out for a test drive, but the knocking noise from motor was too loud for me to push it too hard to see if pressur regulator fized surging. Sound is coming from exhaust side valve cover, or so it seems. Took rockers off, removed all lifters, took them apart, cleaned them, put them back together. Was noisier than before. But was getting better oil flow out a few of them. Let it idle for a few minutes and rockers seemed to quiet down, but there is still a knocking sound when you rev engine. Louder as the revs come down. Wondering if it could be rod knock?
Does it have a miss at all? Or just the knock?
What oil do you run?
What's your oil pressure? Oil clean or smelly? Could be a rod knock, post up a vid of the noise.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Just did oil change with Mobil1 10W-40 before all this started. Before that put in RotellaT 15W-50 after I replaced oil pump and intermediate shaft. Only about 100 miles since oil change. It had what might have been a miss before, but since replacing FPR it's just the knock really bad. Enough I won't be dirving it until i figure it out.
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Took a video but its a crappy cell phone vid and cant really hear it.
Did you anaerobic sealant on the oil pump flange when you mounted it? O-ring on the pickup tube?
I would do a compression check just to make sure it's not a busted piston. Had a couple that sounded like a knock before.
Yes, o-ring on pick up tube, sealant on pump flange. Oil pressure is good.
Here is crappy video
http://vid1078.photobucket.com/album...pswsjjsref.mp4
why does it look like only some of the valves are actuating in that video?
Frame rates on the phone. Same reason why car wheels look like they are going backwards in movies and video.
does sound like rod knock to me, if I'm hearing it correctly in the videoOriginally Posted by HSKR
unplug a spark plug one at a time, and if the sound suddenly goes away, then its rod knock, and that will also tell you which rod
also, you might get some clues by measuring the knock sound repetition rate as best you can.
if you are idling at say 960 rpm, or 16 revs per second, and the knock occurs roughly 4 times per second, then its happening once every 4 strokes, probably on the compression stroke, so rod knock
knock on a door or something 4 times a second to get an idea what that frequency sounds like (or whatever times per second depending on what you are idling at)
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