A few questions before I mod my VB.

[ShadowFromHell]

So I'm planning on doing this shift kit to a stock 87 413 that has 80k.
http://mechdb.com/index.php/Chrysler..._modifications

With the exception of doing the bleed mod with a 1/16 bit and and backing off the line pressure all the way and slowly turning it up. If I can find a smaller bit I will use it. From what I've read that will be safer. If I do just this basic stuff will I need to mess with governor weights? Not wanting to do that at this point. Just want to firm up my shifts a little.

What size do I tap the accumulator too? I need to get the tap and plugs before I tear the car apart. Same for adding the hole to the case so I can adjust the line pressure without dropping the pan. I was thinking 3/8 NPT. I was reading when blocking off the shuttle valve if you use a piece of pipe you can still use that port to check pressure. Would 3/16 brake line work?

I think that's all the questions for now. I've been reading for the past two days non stop after work. I'm doing this to try to beef the tranny up a little to hold the extra power I've added. Going to do some more mods soon but I doubt ill make more then 230hp.

Thanks!

[ShadowFromHell]

Anyone?

[Vigo]

You wont have to mess with the governor weights just from doing the line pressure bleed mod. I would honestly JUST do that (and add a reusable gasket and a drain plug) and see how you like it before even messing with blocking the accumulator.

[ShadowFromHell]

What about blocking the shuttle valve? I really only wanna be in there once lol. Ive already added a drain, not sure what gasket I used. Planning on going with ATF4. Got a lot to do this weekend. Tranny, lifters and it desperatly needs a coolant flush. Coolant is nasty and its not that old .

[Vigo]

My opinion, having worked on these things at a transmission shop for a couple years, is you need to let go of the idea of only going in there once or you might as well not touch it. That's why I think you REALLY ought to get the reusable pan gasket in there on the first go-round to save you a lot of hassle in the long run. At a minimum, get one of the crappy rubber gaskets, just avoid using silicone you have to scrape off every single time. If you're going to be picky about how it shifts you're going to be back in there messing with it at some point.

[4 l-bodies]

I have always used a 1/8" NPT plug. I would say 1/4" plug at the most. IMO, 3/8" plug is WAY bigger than needed. Drill in the correct spot, and 1/8" plug is plenty big.
Todd

[turbovanman²]

Just like I said in the other thread, don't touch the line pressure screw, just do the usual mods IE block the shuttle valve, drill the valve body spacer plate, block the accumulator, and drill the hole so if you want, you can adjust the pressure. Get the reusable pan gasket, silly not too. Don't eat out for a few days to buy one or don't drink,

Don't tap anything, just get some 3/8 straight plugs, put some pipe sealer on, screw them in flush, done.

I usually use a small piece of solid rod to block the valves but brake line should work, 3/16 is fine.

[ShadowFromHell]

What are you calling straight plugs? NPT or SAE?

[turbovanman²]

What are you calling straight plugs? NPT or SAE?

A straight plug, no taper, just straight, like a bolt.

I bought a "set screw" from our local Princess Auto, they have allen heads, work perfectly for plugging the bores.

[ShadowFromHell]

So like a 3/8 bolt but a plug. Gotcha. Just wanting to make sure I have everything before I tear it down.

[4 l-bodies]

So like a 3/8 bolt but a plug. Gotcha. Just wanting to make sure I have everything before I tear it down.

Just so we are on the same page, 1/8" NPT (national pipe thread) which is a tapered thread. Yes about the diameter of a 3/8" bolt but completely different pitch thread.
Todd

[ShadowFromHell]

I know the difference between NPT and SAE, just confused by the "straight thread" thing.

[wallace]

Dont forget to adjust the tv cable to get max travel this is what adds the pressure when you need it most.