restoration tip needed!!

[urban]

I start restoration omni glh. I will remove rear axle and k frame to sandblast. Ive to replace bushing?? If yes which one and where buy it??
Any suggestion to upgrade rear suspension and something to replace...exemple gaz and brake line...
I will repaint floor... So tips welcome

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

any assembely of parts will have sand stuck in it after sandblasting - wheel bearings ball joints tie rod ends , bushings etc so it all has to come apart as you don't want sand left in the parts to grind away at them afterwards

[86Shelby]

www.polybushings.com for all your suspension bushing needs...plus engine mounts and more if you look around there.

[supercrackerbox]

To remove and strip the rear axle, you can do as follows. Start by disconnecting the main parking brake cable from the side cables by loosening the adjusting assembly in the middle of the axle. Next disconnect the brake hoses from the steel tubes that go to each brake drum. Now is a good time to inspect those hoses. If they are damaged or weathered, new rubber ones can be purchased from Rock Auto or any local parts store. Steel braided upgrades can be purchased from www.FWDPerformance.com. If you need to replace the steel tubes and don't want to bend your own, go to www.omnipotentparts.com.

Now support the axle with jack stands. Remove the bolts from the lower shock mounts. Then remove the two bolts on each side that hold the pivot housings to the frame of the car. The axle should now be free. If you left the wheels on, you can easily roll it out from under the car. If not, it's not that difficult to carry. But you'll need to remove the wheels at this point.

Now to remove the brake and hub assemblies from the axle. Start by disconnecting the steel brake lines from the brake cylinders on each side. Plug the cylinders to keep contaminants out. Remove the retaining clips and the brake lines from the axle and set them aside. Remove the retaining clips from the parking brake cables on each side.

Next, pop off the dust cap, and pull the cotter pin, retaining nut, and outer bearing on your brake hub. Then slide the hub off the spindle, and set them aside. Remove the four bolts holding the spindle and backing plate in place. Slide the spindle back into the wheel hub the way it came out, and reassemble the outer bearing and hardware, and pop the dust cap back on. You can now safely store your drum/wheel hub assemblies until you're ready to put it all back together. At this point your backing plates should also be free from the axle. Remove them as an assembly by fishing the parking brake cables through the holes in the axle. I recommend masking off the brake shoes and cleaning the rust up with a wire brush or die grinder and painting them. If you would rather sand blast the backing plates, you'll have to remove all the brake hardware.

Last, remove the bolts for the pivot bushings, and separate the brackets from the axle. To remove the bushings, you can cut the "lip" off one side, and then heat the bracket with a propane or map torch. As the metal gets hot, the rubber will start to melt and expand, and the bushing will force itself out of the bracket.

Your axle and brackets can now be sand blasted and either painted or powder coated.

[urban]

Wow thanks for infos... Start soon and keep you in touch how is going

[supercrackerbox]

I just went through the exact same process not two weeks ago on my GLHS. I've got a camera full of photos to upload which I plan to do this weekend.

[urban]

Now ive removed rear axle. Sand blast and paint next week. The hud, brake system and backing plate need refresh. Can i find the hole stuff at local part store or need to restore main part?
And i ve to replace rear shock. Any upgrade?? Not for racing stock car is find for me butt if i can do upgeade for same price I will.
Thx

[86Shelby]

The brake parts that likely won't be reasily available at a parts store will be the backing plate, spindle and bearing hub. The bearings, seals, shoes, springs & retainers, brake cylinders and drums should be able to be bought at most part stores.

[krut]

If you want the hub, try asking for a repair hub. If you ask for the bearing you'll get just that. 518500 is base omni 508501 is 4 lug GLH, 508502 is 5 lug. Those are moog/national bearing numbers.

[supercrackerbox]

If you have the ability to swap the races yourself, you shouldn't need to replace the hub. If not, then a local machine shop or service shop should be able to swap them for a small fee.

[urban]

Thanks and any suggestion for rear shock??

[supercrackerbox]

Without stepping up to Konis or aftermarket coil-overs, you're pretty much limited to Monroe, KYB, or Gabriels (not sure those are even still available). Lots of people talk trash about the Monroes, but I've never had problems with them. Of course it helps that I work for the company so they reimburse me when I buy them.