I have been trying to find how to do this mod. Does anybody have any instructions with illustrations ? My first time doing this mod. I need to be walked through it. Thank You
I have been trying to find how to do this mod. Does anybody have any instructions with illustrations ? My first time doing this mod. I need to be walked through it. Thank You
damn, now you come to mention it, I think it was on a couple of external sites that have gone offline, IIRC that's where you stick an inch of 1/4" rod in there in place of spring.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
I was hoping to put threaded plugs in so if I don't like it I can put it back. Or what ever I have to do to put it back to where I can use it again
Yah with that, you just save the spring, then swap it back in. Only irreversible mod really is drilling the plate, which if you get a later Neon or Caravan VB you'll find has same size holes factory, so if you get one of those to start with, less work.
Now I'm more awake, I'll go hunting...
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Oh dammit yes, maybe not awake, brain in wrong place.... yah ACCUMULATOR derp.... ignore all of previous, was confusing with shuttle valve.
One page that's a rehash of one of the "classics" http://mechdb.com/index.php/Chrysler..._modifications
I found that my accumulator holes were just tight enough that I could tap them with a 3/8 tap, and then I just cut a couple of 1/2" slugs off a bolt, slotted them and put those in there.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Thanks. Ok now you got me wondering what were you telling me about the Shuttle Valve when you said "you just save the spring then swap t back......Can YOU TELL IT ALL?????
It's in the middle of that page linked above.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
I recommend doing the line pressure bleed mod and turning the pressure regulator spring all the way OUT to start, instead of installing a stiffer regulator spring. You will probably be in there more than once, so drilling and tapping a pressure regulator access hole is probably a good idea.
If not, mopar performance used to sell a nice metal-backed reusable pan gasket that you'll want. I think the info for both the bleed mod and the gasket are stickied around here somewhere.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
5011113AA She is a bit pricey now but not having to chisel the pan off every time is a very nice thing.
I prefer to replace the accumulator valve spring with a piece of pipe as oppose to blocking the port. If you block the port then you can't take a line pressure reading where you're suppose to. You can take it from other ports but I like doing things from their assigned ports.
I bought that reusable gasket but I broke it. The steel portion is actually two pieces held together by rubber. It doesn't take much to break it. I use the rubber gasket that comes with the aftermarket filter kits. It's not something I would use on a customers car because the bolts will loosen over time and they will leak. But I and everybody on here are under our own cars enough to just give the bolts (in my case nuts because I made studs) a couple of twists occasionally to keep them snug and leak free.
I found that the tv cable rarely gets fully extended even when adjusted all the way. I welded up the slot on the tbody and then filed it so that you get the most pressure when you really need it. High static line pressure is very hard on all the internals and in most cases not necessary.
Just match the size of the spring. I used metal pipe.
If your line pressure is already adjusted up, you might not want that extra pressure at WOT because it might not shift and you'll hit the rev limiter. I'm running into that now so I have to loosen mine up.
Don't worry too much about mixing metals, there's brass in the bushings (Copper and zinc) aluminum in the castings and steel in the shafts, so any tube will do, but not just any random plastic, since tranny fluid, heat or additives might decide to dissolve it.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
[QUOTE=A.J.;1059293]Just match the size of the spring. I used metal pipe.
If your line pressure is already adjusted up, you might not want that extra pressure at WOT because it might not shift and you'll hit the rev limiter. I'm running into that now so I have to loosen mine up.[/QUOTE
Yep i turned mine 2.5 turns out like the shift kit calls for and with the belcrank fix the shifts are good nice and firm no governor mods.
I welded up the tv cable slot at the tbody so that at wot the cable gets fully extended. I could not get full extension of the tv cable with it adjusted as far as it would go. I don't remember drilling the valve body i just did the standard shift kit mods. Is this in your van? I never measured the line pressure i just turned it out 2.5 turns i don't think it would be much above stock. The tv cable should provide the additional line pressure when you need it without running high static line pressure. HTH.
Ya it's in my van. When I get it back on the road I'm going to have to play with the pressure adjustment.
I just use some course or fine 3/8 plugs, put sealer on and screw them up into the case. No messing, no fuss.
As for line pressure, as said, don't go too far otherwise you get shifting issues, and DON'T a stiffer regulator spring, you'll break stuff, trust me, been there, got the badge. Do the valve body mod for that then drill a hole in the case so you can access the line pressure adjuster and modify to suit. I did that and modified the governor weights so mine shifts at 7500rpm and still shifts properly in town.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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Can't remember what Thread iT was. YOU Said about to angling the hole in the valve body toward the front because of reading dip stick issues ? Which way is font. LOL.. Front of car or front of trans.(Can you tell I'M a newbie ) THANK!!!!!