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Thread: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

  1. #1
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    91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Car is now for sale for anyone interested. $1400!!!!! Comes with lots of extra stuff.

    Since my Daytona IROC got totaled, I replaced it with a '91 Spirit R/T, which has beeen an adventure and the car is still currently on jack stands. Figured now was as good of time as any to start the build thread with some pics.

    Day I bought it while it was still running. About 1/2 mile from sellers house at a burger joint.


    When we went to leave car would not start cause battery was dead, knew the battery was bad, but was hoping I could just jump start it with the GFs car to get it home, but her cables weren't a large enough gauge to jump the car with a battery that wouldn't take a charge at all. Run to Walmart for a battery and couple quarts of oil for the road just in case.

    Get back to car, new battery, car starts and get on the road. Not even 6 miles later lose oil pressure from an improperly tensioned timing belt taking out intermediate shaft and oil pump gear. Have car towed back to sellers house. Next weekend head back down with my truck and a car dolly to bring it home



    Yes, it's my Dakota R/T towing my Spirit R/T.

    Get it home and tear it apart and this is the carnage.



    And #4 rod bearing from running with no oil pressure


    First "mod" while waiting on new oil pump and intermediate shaft. INstalled the Ebay BOV and grainger valve I had on Daytona onto the Spirit.


    Also while waiting the Eibach Springs I originally ordered as part of FWDP group buy for the Daytona showed up


    Stock rear wheel gap


    Stock rear coil compared to Eibach


    Eibach front springs on the KYB GR-2 struts I had on Daytona.


    Rear wheel gap after Eibachs


    Sitting level shot after getting the engine running again. Also installed the Ninja wheels off the Daytona in place of the snowflakes


    At Pep Boys waiting on an alignment. I actually got really close putting everything back together. No adjustment needed to camber only thing he had to adjust was toe.


    Shot of the rear panhard bar aftr lowering sitting on alignment rack.


    On way home car started smoking badly on decel and from a stop. Turbo sounded like crap. Lost the nut off impellar wheel.


    Found the nut in intercooler hose along with a LOT of oil in bottom of intercooler itself.


    Latest mod while I wwait on the new turbo. clear side markers and parking lights from a '91 Lebaron in local junkyard.


    Things that still need fixed. Transmission will not engage in 2nd gear. Shifter drops down to where 2nd should be but does not engage. If you let out clutch you can "grind" the gear. Almost like the shifter needs to be able to go down about another 1/2" to get into gear. Transmission also has ATF in it, so will proably draing it and refill with recommended 5W-30. Odometer and trip meter don't work, but all other guages do. Also have some EBC slotted/dimpled Sport rotors sitting in a box for the front. Just need front pads and some new rotors/pads for rear and will replace the brakes and put some fresh brake fluid in at same time.
    Last edited by HSKR; 02-07-2016 at 10:53 PM.

  2. #2
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    what'd the camber end up at? Let me point you to this to read: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...Specifications

  3. #3
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    IIRC Drivers side was -.2 and passenger side was -.7. I'm not too worried about making this car a corner carver. That's what my truck is set up for. I was just glad he left it in the negative and didn't try to adjust it.

  4. #4
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    i like the ninjas on that car. sucks about the timing belt tension.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Got new turbo painted and installed. Car runs great now. Still have boost turned down using MBC just to make sure everything was going to work. Used some high temp black paint on it.

    And fabbed up a heatsheild using the sheet metal I have on my Daytona for an air deflector under the radiator. Whatever type of insulation that is supposed to be under the airbox originally is long gone.

  6. #6
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Wow. I'm impressed. Nice score and I'm glad that you got back into another TM so quickly.

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Oh, I also "fixed" the 2nd gear issue. Pulled the shifter housing off top of trnas and discovered that there was a lot of play between 1/2 shift fork and syncro ring which wasn't allowing it to fully engage 2nd gear when the detent pin dropped into place. Without the spring pressure pushing down on the detent the for would go all the way up against the side of the case and 2nd gear would engage. The spring for the 2/4 shoft detent popped out while I was playing with it and fell into the trans. (FML) So since I knew there was a problem with 2nd, I took the spring from the 1/2 detent and put it on the 3/4 and put everything back together. Figured I could hold the shifter in gear for 1/2 if the detent spring is what held it there. Now it shifts great. Was going to pull trans out of Daytona, but I think I will just keep driving the Spirit as is until I have any other problems with trans. I will always have the Daytona sitting there for parts if I need it.

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    FWIW, almost every manual I know of is held in gear by the syncro rings and shiftcrings that engage each gear. When they cut the teeth on the shift rings, they do so so that it has a bit of a bevel, smaller on the outside, whereit engages the syncro while driving, and it gets a little larger on the inside. This ramp effect "holds" the gear in place. The transmission detents are usually to prevent over-extending the forks. If your car starts poppoing out of gear, and its adjusted correctly in every way, its brobably a worn shifter ring, gear, syncro, or all 3.

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Its not popping out of gear and with the detent spring removed, grabs 2nd every time.

  10. #10
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    need a factory "snorkel" for your airbox so you're not sucking in all the hot underhood air you're trying to block

  11. #11
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Long term plans are to actually buy a 6-pack style hood scoop and cutting a hole in hood. I found a valley cover with R/T laser cut out of it that would be covered up with a factory snorkel.

    removed, sanded, primered(with filler primer), sanded, primered(more filler primer), sanded, then final two coats of white primer on the spoiler. Had some places where fiberglass was flaking, now it's smooth. Also sanded and primered the trunk lid and the panel between trunk and rear window.

  12. #12
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Yesterday I drove it to Mopar Fall Fling in Van Nuys, then took "scenic" route back to drop a part of with previous owner. Over 500 miles total and not a single problem with the car. Wasn't building boost the whole drive though, I had a pretty good idea why and I verified and fixed it when I got home. The wastegate actuator rod was too long and holding the waste gate open. I adjusted the rod to proper length then took it for a drive. Holy crap does the car move now. And I don't even have the boost cranked up. Waiting on my boost gauge to show up so I can dial in the grainger valve. Not sure exactly where it's set now, but the car moves better than the Daytona ever did even at 13psi on the Daytona.

    Also bought an A/C compressor off Ebay because when I ran the defroster on the car driving home the other night, the a/c clutch turned red hot and was smoking by the time I got home. And since it seems nobody sells just the clutch for these compressors, I found a used one on Ebay for $65 shipped that the seller said worked before he took it off car. Not sure if clutch was bad on mine, or compressor was bad causing the clutch to have to work harder, so just going to replace whole thing. Then fully charge the A/C. Only had about 6 oz 134A in it.

  13. #13
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    New lotek dual gauge pillar pod loaded with aem wideband(not hooked up) and a cheap eBay boost gauge. Plastidipped thebpillar pod using gunmetal gray. Pretty close match to factory interior.
    c


    - - - Updated - - -

    Also installed an ac bypass belt while I wait for new co.pressor to show up. Clutch was smoking again after the short drive to parts store and it wasn't even engaged. Just lack of lubricant on bearings.

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Ripped my interior apart to see what it's going to take to put in the over head console with the temp/compass display only ti find out the overhead console I bought has a fried display. Headliner left out of car since it was sagging anyways.



    Since i had everything torn apart, I decidded to see if the enthusiast seats out of my Daytona would fit and see how they look. I'm happy to say that they more or less bolted right in and look good. The only function of the power drivers seat I lost and still have to figure out is the power recline for the seat back. Haven't sat in passenger side, but the drivers side sits lower than the stock Spirit seats.

  15. #15
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    An overhead counsol from an AA body will plug & play with the R/T's wiring. The connector is located in the trunk, and the wiring runs down the headliner to the rear window and over to the passenger side C-pillar, down & into the trunk. Don't forget to bolt the ground strap to the body, there's another ground nearby in the trunk that works great.

    I hope the brackets & hardware came with the counsol to bolt it to the roof, those screws were pretty short. IIRC the cutouts needed in the headliner is a U shape up front and then a square several inches further back. I have a partial headliner with the cutouts stuck way in the back of the garage with another counsol; if you have a few days I should be able to get out there Monday to snap a pic for ya.

    You will need to source a temp sensor to read outside temp. The two wire connector for the sensor is behind the front bumper on the center of the radiator support. IIRC the connector is the same as the intake air temp sensor on the engine.
    “If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    I took the console out of a car I the junkyard. I made sure to note how the holes in the headliner were cut. Wish I would have known there is an actual connector in the truck as I got tired of tracing the wiring back when it disappeared behind the rear seat, and just cut it by the a-pillar planning on just running the wires a short run up the a-pillar from under the dash. Wiring isn't a problem for me and I found the connector behind the kick panel with all the wires for it. Already have a temp sensor plugged in. I had grabbed it for my Daytona planning on putting in the traveler with temp display but never found one so just settled on the two button in the Daytona.

    As for progress on the car today, put new bulbs in the fog lights since the ones on the car were both burnt out. Then swapped steering wheels with my Daytona as I like the four spoke steering wheel from the daytona better.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Last edited by HSKR; 11-06-2014 at 02:36 AM.

  17. #17
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Nice I have the same setup in my acclaim, the daytona wheel is super easy to swap over.
    1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!

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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Another "mod" for today. More out of necessity and function than looks. Strip of weather proofing tape meant for exterior duct work. Windsheild has a leak on the top seal and it rained last night. Had about 1" of standing water in passenger floorboard this morning. This should tide me over until the time I need, or want to replace windsheild to fix the seal.

  19. #19
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Do that windshield sooner than later. I had the same problem with my 90 shadow and it really started the rust on the floorboards and fire wall that have destroyed it.

  20. #20
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    Re: 91 Spirit R/T build thread

    Okay, been a while since I updated the thread.

    Since the last post, engine developed a knock after changing to Mobil1 synthetic oil. tried a bunch of stuf trying to figure out what the cause was. Ended up breaking the cap off #3 rod.


    Which in turn took out the crank.


    Car has been down since then as I didn't have time or a place to work on it. I bought a new crank, sourced some used rods, got all new gaskets, and ARP rod bolts. This week I finally got around to tearing it down to swap the crank. A guy I work with has a shop and trailer so we hauled the car over to his place.


    Got the motor pulled. Ended up dropping the K-frame and motor/tranny as one unit out the bottom, then lifted the car up with his lift.



    When I pulled head to start removing the pistons, I found this


    Needless to say the crank swap was done as I didn't have another Venoli piston to replace this one with and needed to get the car out of this guys shop as soon as possible as he uses it almost daily to work on other peoples cars for money. He is letting me work on my car there basically for free.

    SO I had him pick up my old Daytona, we pulled it to his shop, and pulled the motor out of it.


    Then went to work swapping parts around to build up the 2.5L T1 out of the Daytona with all the TIII parts.


    Got the motor together mated up to the tranny and back in the car today. Tomorrow I will head back over, finish up the last few things and hopefully fire it up.

    I will be re-building the original 2.2 out of the car when I get back to Nebraska later this year as it's a numbers matching block. For now it will just be a 2.5L TIII.

    Also finally found out there is a Neil Emiro tune on the SBEC, so at least I know what I have now. Talked to Neil he said it's basically just a stock tune but set up for 15lbs of boost using revised fuel/spark tables for +20 injectors.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Car is up and running. Only issue is the steering wheel is clocked 90 degrees off. I know the problem, just can't fit it easily, so will just get an alignment to make up the difference. Should be enough adjustment in the tie rods for that.

    Haven't taken it much over 3500RPMs and never past 6lbs of boost since I'm running the Custom cal meant for the 2.2L block. Most everyone has said the 2.5 needs different fuel maps so don't want to push it too much.

    Also came up with a solution for crankcase vent/pcv and the hole for distributor. Used a valve cover grommet that fit inside the distributor hole and a pcv valve to hold it in. Then hose from pcv valve to intake manifold. Not the exact way the factory had it cause when in boost, no vent, but it has stopped the smoking at idle and upon start up. And doesn't seem like it's blowing oil out the dipstick tube and oil fill cap anymore. This is just temporary anyways.

    - - - Updated - - -

    So had alignment done for steering wheel, now I've lost some turn radius when turning left. Really need to either replace the rack now, or figure out how to get the shaft, the steering wheel connects to, out and re-clocked properly on the rack itself. Also when turning wheel from one side to the next while driving like navigating a parking lot, or going over uneven surfaces at an angle there is a popping from drivers side. Not sure if it's CV axle or the steering. You can feel it slightly in steering wheel when turning the wheels, but not when it mkes noise wile driving straight over the uneven surfaces.

    Drove the car from Lemoore, CA to Fallon, NV. 6 hour drive and only issue I had was when going up Donner Pass with cruise set, it went into boost and hit 10lbs at one point. Smoke started coming out the back of the car so I backed off, and pulled off on next exit. Car sounded fine and no smoke out tail pipe. Popped hood, oil all over engine bay. With the way I have the PCV set up there is no vent when under boost so it pushed oil out the dipstick tube which got onto the exhaust causing the smoke. Was 1.5qts low of oil. Exit I pulled off on had no services, but next one a mile up road had a Shell station. Grabbed a quart of the RotellaT I'm running, and kept on going. No other issues the rest of the drive.

    On the drive I stopped at a junkyard and grabbed a set of Acclaim taillights as I like the way they look without the amber like the Spirit lights.


    Got them on then realized I needed the trunk harness to make the turns and reverse lights working properly. Little contemplating and figuring out what I needed to do, I got the turn signals working in the reverse light section, just no reverse lights right now. Endded up swapping a couple contacts in the connector for the lights to make it work as the jumpers I was trying to use kept coming loose.

    Also took apart a spare guage cluster I had grabbed oping the odo and trip meter worked. They didn't work and the tach needle would hang up around 1500-2000 RPMs when slowing down. Pulled the needles off, sanded the backs and added some red to make red needles. When I get a fully functional cluster I will put them on the car. Used some translucent red paint from Hodge Podge I found in craft section at walmart.



    Also bought some new speakers for the front doors. Just some cheap Sony Xplode ones from Walmart, but they fit and allow me to put speaker grills back on. Had some Infinity reference 6.5" speakers in there I had from the Daytona. They Infinity's didn't fit at all, but they made noise where as the stock amplified infiniity speakers were garbage.

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