[Hello all, after doing a search and finding suggestions on how to do this I decided to change mine and take pic's for all to see. This is not a tough job.
To change the pins, fender removal is necessary. Some problems that may encountered would be damaged or rusted extruded U-nut fender fasteners. They are all M-6 by 1 with two different lengths. Both are available at Ace hardware. The pins are also available there. They are 2 1/4 X 1/4 tension or roll pins.
Once the fender is off I heated the hinges with a propane torch. I used aluminum foil behind the hinges to stop paint damage or fire. Perform this part at our own risk and have fire fighting equipment handy. You are responsible for any damage to your car or property.
All-in-all this was very easy once I figured out the tools I needed and a process for removal and installation. Not counting fender removal, both pins took about a half an hour. I only did one hinge at a time while leaving the door in the closed position. Both old pins will have to be cut off at some point during removal to avoid damaging the inner door by pin contact. I drove the pins about 3/4's of the way out and then started the new pin and used it to drive the old pin all of the way out while simultaneously installing the new one. I used a body spoon against the pin to prevent the hammer from striking a blow that would bend the pin. When finished the new pin will stick out 1/4 inch either side of the hinge assembly When done the door was much better but it must be said that the hinge part attached to the door is worn out to some extent and still allows some angular movement. A proper repair would require door removal and the hinge part should be reamed over size and have a sleeve installed to bring tolerances back to new. A tricky operation at best because the hinge bores must have the same axis to prevent binding or misalignment of the door.
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