HEP Melting

[ajakeski]

Check the HEP wires on your harness.
You may have a bad connection somewhere.

[black86glhs]

Check the connections at the PM for corrosion.

[rich tideswell]

the little metal tabs on the underside are the cam and crank sensors (that's why there is 2 plugs). when hot, the sensor could be shorting out, pulling the reference voltage down to near zero, and the car dies. I had this happen to me with my old 1988 daytona, wait 30min after it died and it would start back up as if nothing wrong. in your case, with everything new, why is it getting hot enough to melt wires? find the answer to this and you'll fix the problem

[minigts]

So, we took off the 2nd HEP that I thought had failed. We cleaned the connectors on it, and then we went through the wires that plug into the HEP. We checked everything and it all seemed good. The female plugs for the HEP seemed dirty, we sprayed some cleaner on it. The car ran on the HEP I thought had failed. Then just again today it started bogging, I pulled over. Unplugged it, tried a brand new aftermarket HEP. The car wouldn't start with it on. We plugged the one that was bogging again back in. Car started and the problem went away. I'm thinking the connection must be bad. I won't know till the weekend though when I can work on it.

Let me know your thoughts.

So melting == not working? If not truly melted, check the pins inside the plug from the harness. Ken Soroka mentioned that they can flare out causing a lack of continuity. Also, don't assume that the HEP is bad, don't rule out the coil. I had intermittent problems just as you are (now) mentioning and the coil was the culprit. I run the later style that has the coil mounted to the t-stat area that has a plug. The plug didn't have enough wire from the sub-harness, so the sub-harness was pulling on it causing some tension and eventually caused disruption or lack of continuity in the signal to the coil. Once I fixed that, the problem went away.