I used the stock lower bushings on the Honda radiator, I then just drilled the holes where they needed to be. The upper I just used a piece of plate bolted to the front support over the upper pin on the radiator.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
If you can afford the space (in the height), I'd make a bracket to marry the Honda studs on the bottom with the stock holes instead of drilling new ones. Sometimes it's not possible to make such a bracket, but I try to refrain from drilling new holes in my car.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info guys. Could anybody post pics?
It's ugly, but I had nothing for tools or shelter at the time. How far I've come!
http://omniglht.com/rad.html
I think I used one preexisting hole and drilled another. The top one I drilled a hole and used this metal strap. It sits at an angle.
Are these radiators really enough to keep the engine cool?
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
From what I've read, yes. They keep things very cool down there.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Mine is partially clogged and I have no problems with it keeping my car cool in 100* weather and 90%+ humidity. I'm using a cheapo $80 eBay radiator and have absolutely no shrouding. With proper shrouding from the fan to the radiator, and radiator to the core support, I don't see why it wouldn't work even with a/c. I've been running the Honda radiators for 4 years now. I took a 3.5 hour trip doing 80 the whole time and reaching 110+ with no issues. They are not as wide as a stock rad but the cores are much thicker.
The T-II radiator and AC is BARELY adequate for AZ. Add a front mount intercooler and forget it. But AZ is the extreme and most of the rest of the country doesn't experience what we do.
I have not run a front mount yet with the Honda radiator. Proper shrouding is absolutely key in my opinion no matter what radiator you are running. If the air is just flowing around it, no radiator will keep it cool.
Shrouding is important but only helps so much. In my Dad's '85 wagon with a TU T-II radiator, AC, and a large FMIC it was running between 220* and 230* on the highway. I used cardboard to guide any air coming through the grill to go through the radiator (I used cardboard because if it didn't work I wouldn't have wasted materials and too much time). It didn't help at all.
I would go with this statement regardless of any statements contrary. Its fact, not something that is disproven in one or more applications where the cause of overheating is undetermined. I have seen a TII Lancer that would overheat going up a large hill (freeway) and I could tow another car up the same hill with my Spirit without temps even rising. I know his car was messed up no matter how well he thought he had sorted it out.
Tell any serious Salt Flats/Land Speed guy that ducting does not make a difference. I am quite sure I have inspected the most ducted 2.2 turbo car in the world and it works. He had individual ducting for each system including oil cooler.
An engine bay that is pressurizing at speed will also prevent air from going through the radiator even with ducting.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I have found that placing a big bar and plate intercooler in front of your radiator can cause problems no matter what radiator you are using.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
I'm going to eventually go with a spearco same side intercooler and a 3 core civic half radiator (mine is dual core right now). With proper shrouds and ducting for the intercooler and then radiator I think it should work great.