HMMM, I do have a 1 piece intake I could slap on for now....but I am running the TU header, would that make it easier or harder to get the intake off?
HMMM, I do have a 1 piece intake I could slap on for now....but I am running the TU header, would that make it easier or harder to get the intake off?
I'm not sure..I would guess easier since the turbo flange being moved towards the throttle means you would have more room to get to the more difficult bolts, but its never been tried so there is uncertainty. What body type would you be installing this in? And what kind of turbo?Originally Posted by moparzrule
G body as you said, T04E 57 trim with .63 stage 3 turbine with a TU swingvalve. Do you have to remove the swingvalve at all?
When I swapped the intakes around I didnt have to touch the swingvalve or turbo or exhaust. Just the supporting stuff like air tubes, throttle, etc..
Its tricky and I'm hesitant to say it would work on someone elses engine, but there is a very good chance. It sounds like we have the same turbine housing. I didnt have to remove my swingvalve.
Worst case you could just install whatever intake you need to install right now, using button had cap screws, so you have the best chance of being able to remove it later, in-car. The stock bolts just require more clearance and bigger tools and make it basically impossible.
I believe these were the ones I got from mcmaster, but you should check the length and make sure you get ones long enough but not too long. And you'll need a matching, ball-end allen wrench, preferably with a snap ring on the end so it holds the head for easier installation.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91239A450
I totally hear you about wanting to get the engine together at all costs right NOW..it usually takes a focused mindset like that to get my car back together, and the compromises that you sometimes have to make to do that can feel crappy. Thats why I tried to figure out how I could swap intakes in-car so I wouldn't have downtime. I'd really like to see you have this intake because your build looks awesome..but a bunch of parts sitting in a garage is no fun no matter how great they would be assembled, so I suggest you look into using the button head cap screws on whatever intake you install, and just do what you need to do right away. Worst case you cant get the button heads out in-car but at least your car is running and you still have some bad a$$ intake on it either a ported 2 piece with a lengel plenum or something
Put me down for #10 Asa. I'm not sure if I exactly *need* it right now but it's just so cool to see something like this happen.
iTurbo!!!
1. Vicus (TD, L-body)
2. Vigo (TM, L-body)
3. signsoflife22 aka knownenemy (TD, L-body)
4. Shadow (TD, L-body)
5. Turbulence (TM, L-body)
6. Pageophile (TM, L-body)
7. tryingbe (TM, L-body)
8. 88C/S (TM, waiting for body type confirm)
9. k03hemi (TM)
10. iTurbo (TM)
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Alright, well, don't put me on the list quite yet because if I can get my hands on a lengel intake plenum in the next 2-3 weeks I'll probably go that route. So, I'm kind of a tentative, if you get 19 by then and I haven't found a lengel piece I'll probably jump on board.
any data (dyno #'s etc.) on the improvements by using this?
I'm the only person whos ever installed one so no data yet.
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sounds good!
It would be different on every setup anyway.any data (dyno #'s etc.) on the improvements by using this?
If you look at all the fastest people in the community, they have all done the same things to their intake manifolds:
1. Increase plenum volume.
2. Shorten runners.
3. Increase runner CSA.
4. A lot of hard fab work to accomplish that!
This is a bolt on piece that does those things without requiring the fab skill or even requiring you to know WHAT to do in the first place.
If it makes you feel any better, look what Shadow is saying about it:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...on!&highlight=
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Thanks for the support Vigo!
I believe this intake simultaneously exceeds in geometry any intake that has been made for our cars, and does it priced about half what you'd have to pay to get those intakes.
NEWS FLASH: I'm going to have to raise the price after this group buy! Not a ton, but enough to make it so I don't have to have group buys in the future and people can just buy them on demand, and I'll have a small stock of them ready to ship. So get in while you can and get an insane deal!!
Alright, beam me up scottie. Lengel didn't have any on hand to sell, so sign me up and hopefully it won't be too hard to swap the intakes out with the TU header.
I tried to restrain myself but I can't do it anymore... I'll take one too.
so are you making each intake flange and plenum "flange" by hand on your mill? I haven't been keeping up with all your crazy progress and awesome parts you've been making? can u send me one flange to see if I can those more "mass" produced for you? my friend seams very interested after showing him the thread. at least I can get you some sort of quote or ballpark? hes telling me he might be able to produce 20 at a time in one sweep with one chunk of metal? but I have no idea of cost at this time?
either way, keep up the good work! I might just have to get an unwelded one from you anyways, il wait til theres 15 on the list...
Forgot to mention, if its not much trouble I'd like one with no ports drilled. I can drill/tap in locations I want then. Thanks!
WOW!!! two within 10 minutes of each other!!
Thank YOU Moparzrule & Old Man Jones!!
1. Vicus (TD, L-body)
2. Vigo (TM, L-body)
3. signsoflife22 aka knownenemy (TD, L-body)
4. Shadow (TD, L-body)
5. Turbulence (TM, L-body)
6. Pageophile (TM, L-body)
7. tryingbe (TM, L-body)
8. 88C/S (TM, waiting for body type confirm)
9. k03hemi (TM)
10. iTurbo (TM)
11. moparzrule (TM)
12. Old Man Jones (TM)
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Not by hand so to speak lol they are all CNC..but one at a time. I think I'm going to be doing this batch totally on my own machinery but after that I may look into quotes
The only port that comes pre-drilled/tapped is the brake line port, because there is already a hole there for fixturing. The other holes (in the plenum end plates) I'm going to weld shut or plug.
If you want any part of it left unwelded too, just let me know..i.e. the steering pump side plenum end plate..its an easy part to have someone weld on and leaving it off lets you get the inside real clean after drilling and tapping.
I think you are going to be THRILLED with this intake moparzrule lol
Nah it can be fully welded up, I'll blow it out and maybe even fill it up with water and shake it out but tiny aluminum shavings pass through everything no problem....been there done that lol.
I agree! But now I have to get a billet 1 piece rail since I only have a 2 piece rail atm.
so everything that bolts or plugs into the stock manifold will bolt up or connect (vaccuum lines, etc.) to this as well? Also, this will not work with a TU header and 3" swingvalve........is that correct?
Things that will bolt right up and fit with no problem:
-stock fuel rail with whatever regulator you have if it fits in the stock location
-stock injectors or those of equivalent size/shape (+40's)
-stock through 58mm chrysler throttle body
-stock exhaust manifold with .63 turbine housing and 2.5" swingvalve
-the wastegate actuator will need a spacer, which can be made with a block of aluminum and a hand drill. the spacer will likely be around 1" long. the arm will also need to be extended.
-ZF steering pump or no steering pump (no compatibility with saginaw pump)
On my 90 daytona, there were a bunch of things connected to the stock intake:
-charge air temp sensor
-O2 sensor bracket and ground strap
-PCV pipe
-knock sensor
-brake booster vac
-vac manifold
Of those,this intake includes only a 1/4" tapped hole for the brake booster vac connection. Any other ports/bungs will have to be added. Its this way to reduce cost, and since most people have the tools and skills for a basic operation like drilling and tapping NPT holes, it should be win win for everyone.
Fitment with a 3" TU swingvalve is unknown. Most likely it will fit fine because if it keeps the wastegate lever in the same spot, then that means there isnt material going up above that towards the intake, but its never been tested.
A TU header should also fit, if it fits the stock intake, but that also has not been tested.
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