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Thread: Pump problem or not?

  1. #21
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    I have a super 70 computer, run 20% injectors all grounds are in tacked. I have the submersible fuel line hose on the pump as well. When it was running for the 20 minutes or so it was not pulling full boost and was hesitating at WOT. I have a fuel pressure gauge that t can read while driving at it is reading about 60lbs at idle and does climb with rpm when it is WOT.

  2. #22
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    What's a Super 70 computer?

    If you mean Super 60 then that's your problem, your injectors are too small and your too lean. Your supposed to run +40 injectors. Are you also running a 3 bar map? Do you have air/fuel gauge?
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  3. #23
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanmanČ View Post
    What's a Super 70 computer?

    If you mean Super 60 then that's your problem, your injectors are too small and your too lean. Your supposed to run +40 injectors. Are you also running a 3 bar map? Do you have air/fuel gauge?
    The Super 70 is a remapped computer from Forward Motion a small step up from the 60 I'm not sure if they call that anymore. I do have a set of 40%s I can throw on the car and a 3 bar map. Unfortunately I do not have an A/F gauge. Any suggestions on where and which one I should get? Also, once I get it what range should I be looking for and is the 60 psi of fuel pressure right with the 40%s.

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  5. #25
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    Quote Originally Posted by mckeonm View Post
    The Super 70 is a remapped computer from Forward Motion a small step up from the 60 I'm not sure if they call that anymore. I do have a set of 40%s I can throw on the car and a 3 bar map. Unfortunately I do not have an A/F gauge. Any suggestions on where and which one I should get? Also, once I get it what range should I be looking for and is the 60 psi of fuel pressure right with the 40%s.
    The AEM is super simple to install and seems pretty accurate. Innovate are good to, some have problems, some don't. I'd see if your lean before you go any further. 60 psi is too high, it should be 55 psi with the fpr vacuum line unhooked.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  6. #26
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    Unfortunately I could not find my 40%s, and will need to source some. I did get the part number P4532176 off the current injectors, does anyone know what injectors they are?

  7. #27
    turbo addict
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    Quote Originally Posted by mckeonm View Post
    P4532176
    In these time and age...

    https://www.google.com/search?q=P453...x-a&channel=sb

  8. #28
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    I installed the newly acquired +40 injectors, adjusted the fuel pressure down to 45 psi with vacuum line removed and installed what I think is a 3 bar map, is there any identifying mark to know for sure? It started right up without hesitation, however still had difficult maintaining an idle. On a test drive the car pulls good to 12 psi at 90% throttle, however when at WOT it falls on its face. It looses boost and it starts sputtering like it needs more fuel.

    Exhaust is still on the dark side & leaving dark gray spot on the ground after just a few minutes.

  9. #29
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    You need to stop driving it if it's running that rich. You'll wash down the cylinder walls in no time. You can test the map by checking the voltage vs. pressure to see where it's at. Compare that to a graph of the voltage output vs. pressure and you're set.

    You know that you can't just throw a 3 bar map in the car and expect it to run correctly right? If it's a two bar cal you need to run a two bar sensor.

    You should really find out what the computer is set up for and attempt to run it that way first. Once you have it running really well like that, then you can try to add bigger injectors, more boost, etc. As it stands you're on your way to a an engine rebuild at best.

  10. #30
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    I am aware of not just throwing in a 3 bar map and expecting to run better. The computer I have is from forward motion and did require a 3 bar map.

    Is there more detailed instructions on testing the map and where might I find the graph you referred too?

  11. #31
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Pump problem or not?




    When the map has power see what the signal wire puts out for voltage. It should line up with one of the two lines. Honestly, running really rich I wonder if you're running the right map or if you have your vacuum lines hooked up properly.

  12. #32
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    Quote Originally Posted by mckeonm View Post
    is there any identifying mark to know for sure?

    Google the part number that is on the sensor, that usually works for me.

  13. #33
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    Ok, checked the voltage on the map and it is a two bar map. I also had a friend(non turbo dodge guy) with a OBD1 scan tool come over. I was getting a MAP fault code "no change in signal" and a similar Baro fault code. My question is would the incorrect MAP sense cause the Baro fault code, or do I have an issue with Baro as well?

  14. #34
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Pump problem or not?

    The baro read code should only be for a wiring problem to the solenoid. The no change in signal was probably a code 13 which generally indicates that there is a vac problem. I would try bypassing the baro read solenoid and go straight to the map with vac. You'll still need to fix that baro read code though as I think some of the years have a limp mode for it or at least don't run well with it.

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