I'll do that Tuesday when I'm off.
I'll do that Tuesday when I'm off.
Took the exhaust apart today and got it marked where to cut it and weld it back together so it can't get close to the new has tank that will be going in tomorrow to damage it.
You taking it off the car and then to get work done or are you driving it there and having the work done on the car? I have a guy I've been to in Covington, but just in case he's not there anymore, it would be nice to know of another shop in town where I can take it. I also have the exhaust on the Lancer to hang as well.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Doing it myself, using the pieces I took off the back behind the axle, marked where I needed to cut the s pipe and then I'll weld the other piece to it, then cut it off at an angle. After the Memphis show, I'm going to mark it all and take it off and weld all the joints except the muffler joints.
Got the new gas tank and straps painted and the old tank out. Tonight hopefully I'll get the pickup/sending unit changed and the new tank back in. Still have to clean the filler neck and paint it before I put it back in.
Got the new tank mounted back under the car and cleaned the filler neck pipe and painted it so it'll be ready to put back in tomorrow and hook everything back up. After that I need to pull the rear rotors and see why I suddenly lost the parking brake s, all the cables are good and working, so something inside the rotors must have come apart. May paint my calipers red while I have them off the rotors.
I also need to finish modifying and welding up me exhaust.
Hopefully it will be back on the road Wednesday.
Got all the hoses and filler neck back in and the exhaust all modified and mounted, the way it is now, unless something breaks, it can't get lose to the gas tank.
Tomorrow I'll look @ the parking brakes.
Got the car all back together, still fighting this stupid map pneumatic fault. Checked continuity on map signal wire, wiring is good. Voltage on the map sensor signal wire is .57v @ idle, after running a min or two it changes to a fluctuating voltage around .7v, which makes the engine idle like crap. Ground & power are good at the map sensor.
reroute the hose for the map sensor. make sure as little as possible is on the line.
pneumatic fault, not an electrical one. The LM looks for pulses in the line in a certain rpm range, if it doesn't see them it assumes somethings wrong. Long line runs can cause this as can too many items tee'd off the line bleeding off the pulses.
Working on clearing the decks.
Ok, but it started subbenly, and at first it would come and go, and the way it is connected has been running fine for the last year and a half. I can move the vacuum source and try it. The way it has been, it has a large vacuum block on the front of the intake.
Swapped the vacuum lines from vacuum block going to the map sensor solenoid and the waist gate solenoid, runs great now?
Car ran good today at Memphis international raceway. Track times were a little bit slower than I was hoping, best time was 15.606.
I have everything back together with all the original part in the map circuit just as it was before the problem started. Been driving it to work the past 2 weeks with no problems. Still don't know what the problem was.
I spoke to soon, the day after I finally remounted the map sensor instead of it just being tucked behind the vacuum lines, it started acting up again. This time though, if you let it run bad for about 2-3 min, then shut it off and restart the car, it runs fine no mater how hard or long you drive it with no power loss light on. After it sits for a few hours, it does the same thing.
Replaced the left front wheel bearing on it, still need to replace ball joints and control arm bushings, then get an alignment.
Did you not do the other side or was it replaced recently? I'd do both just because eventually it will more than likely need it.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
It was good and tight, no play, but the left front had so much play in it I was worried about it when driving it, it was causing it to have a jerk or hop when I went around a curve to the right. I'll do it before I get the alighnment done. Waiting on payment for side work I've done so I can get the bushings and other wheel bearing, already have ball joints and outer tie rod ends so I can do them before I get an alignment as well. If this guy doesn't pay me soon, I may have a truck. It's been done for 2 weeks now.
Got my SMEC while I was out of town, can't wait to get off work to put it in and drive it.
Last edited by 82 Rampage; 03-26-2016 at 08:54 PM.
Looks like the GLHS won't be ready for SDAC again this year, time is flying by. Got the small rust spot over the right rear wheel well fixed then I found out that it has a small dent in front of the right rear wheel, that they just filled with bondo. Can't leave it that way, have to remove the bondo and remove the dent. Also found a small rust spot behind the left rear wheel when I removed the rear side skirt. Finished removing all the decals today and the side skirts.just need to remove the front and rear bumpers. Oh well, I'll have it looking really good for next year for it's 30 year event wherever we have it.
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