Trying to get it all repainted this spring in time for the car shows.
Trying to get it all repainted this spring in time for the car shows.
Last edited by 82 Rampage; 01-20-2015 at 09:07 PM.
Last Monday my radiator cooling fan had an electrical meltdown. After getting it home and time to work on it. The fan motor seized up and locked it up, won't eve turn by hand. It pulled so much current the rubber 2 wire connector welded itself together. Bought an aftermarket 14" electric fan and made a mounting plate for it and got it all back together again. However it still didn't work. After doing some more looking, I found that the fusable link had completely disintegrated. Replaced it for now with an inline fuse holder and went ahead and replaced the fan relay. Works great now.
Last edited by 82 Rampage; 01-24-2015 at 10:41 AM.
<br />Originally Posted by 82 Rampage<br />
My car broke today on the way home. Randomly idles very low and hunts and misses bad, bucks & jerks sometimes under 2k rpm. Pulls hard once above 2k & seems to run smooth. Started checking for vacuum leaks, pulled a small vacuum line of and it smooths out & idled about normal with the line disconnected from the vacuum block. I knew things were going way to good today. Ran fine on the way to work, but started this about 2/3rd of the way home. Guess I'll have to work on it Friday when I'm off work.
Still trying to figure this issue out, it comes and goes. It Sat for 4 day during the ice and snow, last night I fired it up and let it run for about 20 minutes and it idled perfectly. Drove it to work today and it did great till I got off the interstate, then wouldn't idle at the stop light. Drove the last 2 miles to work, pulled in and parked, and it idled perfectly. Started it to come home, ran great till I got off the interstate and it wouldn't idle. Got to the stop sign in town after 5 slow downs or stop signs and it started idling fine again and ran fine the rest of the way home. Thought it may be fuel related, but when it doesn't idle right, once you get it up to about 1900 rpm, it runs smooth.<br/>
Fixed power loss light and codes that come up are 13, 14, 42. Looked at vacuum lines and all look good, put a new map sensor on and same thing. Any ideas. Thinking maybe SMEC may have gone bad.
Well, the idle issue fixed itself again, been driving it for a week now and no idle problem. Yesterday on the way home, it started running hot @ road speed, slow down to 45-50 mph and it cools right down. Trying to get this figured out now, think it's the aftermarket fan I installed late last fall restricting air flow at road speed. I just mounted it to a flat sheet of steel and bolted it to the radiator. Yesterday was the hottest day it's been since I put it on. Need it sorted out soon so I can get it painted before the end of May when we were taking them to Denver.
Well, we'll find out if I found a suitable solution for the cooling problem. I took the stock fan shroud and took my aftermarket 14" fan, and cut all the plastic shroud off of it and mounted it in the stock shroud. So far, although it's not but 65° today, but sitting idling, when it kicks on it cool right down still. Going to drive the next two days. Monday it's suppose it to be in the eighties, which is close to what it was when it happened this past Wednesday.
Got the car in the air and got the front seats out and all the center console. Only thing left to take out is the rear seat and carpet so I can get the floors cut out and replaced and try to clean the carpet some. Wish I had the money to replace the carpet right now, but trying to raise the money to get it painted next month.
Got the carpet out, and here is what I found. From the seat mount back, looks great, to bad the heater core was left leaking so long before I got the car, it rotted out the front floor pans.
Thats about what my omni looked like.
Got the nose and front fenders off today, that was a major task I think just about every bolt broke. Did find a little more rust higher up on the drivers wheel well. Got started cutting on the passengers side this evening. More pictures to follow.
I think I have the passengers side about ready to start welding in new metal.
Ordered the primer sealer for it today, also ordered Fat mat sound deadening material, and new carpet for it. Started welding in the new metal on the passenger side floor.
Well, all hopes of getting the floor pans replaced before the end of the month, almost done with passangers side and my welder died, to old and ca nt find parts to fix it. I guess I'll have to do some side work to make money to buy a new one. Hopefully I can have them done before bad weather this fall.
Finally got the floors all welded in. Now a little grinding and undercoating and in with the interior.
Got the new carpet in and the center console back in. Got the nasty peeling paint off the hood an black primer on it Forrester now.
Got it all back together. Took it for about an 80 mile shake down run. Did great, I think I have the temperature creep fixed..
I guess I got my temp creep problem fixed, we just drove the last 100 miles across I 70 West @ 80-85 mph, with no problems.
Glad to hear ya got it back on the road! Any pics of the progress while fixing the floor and such? I would have been overwhelmed looking at the tie rod end through the floor like the pic from last month. Yikes!
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
Well, no pictures, to much of a last minute rush just trying to get it done.
Well, its official, the GLHS won't be going to SDAC & Carlisle, bringing the Rampage instead & the wife's SC. The MAP sensor pneumatic failure is still kicking my a$$. It's so intermittent. Actually watching the vacuum and the MAP voltage, beginning to think it is the SMEC causing it. I've tried 2 known good MAP sensors, tried bypassing the vacuum solenoid, different vacuum lines, still randomely fails just sitting @ idle. Ran it @ idle for 30 minutes Monday, MAP failure, then without changing anything, it started running fine, turnrd it off and restarted the car, no power loss light. Let it idle, reved it several times for at least an hour while I worked on other things, ran perfect. Started it yesterday, about a minute after I started it, the power loss light came on with the same code 13 on a super 60 SMEC. Really stumped right now.
Great work!
Have you tried doing a continuity test from the MAP sensor plug to the SMEC connector? If the vacuum lines are solid and you've switched out sensors, that just leaves the wiring or the SMEC. Also, double check all of your ground connections.
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