power in signal out of map. sensor

[jeff1234]

Lol, I would like to say "what next" but I'm afraid to.;-)

[jeff1234]

The departed!Attachment 50468

[Vigo]

So if i was a turbo shop, what would my excuse be if the customer brought that back after a few hundred miles?

[cordes]

So if i was a turbo shop, what would my excuse be if the customer brought that back after a few hundred miles?

It happens? Is there a common way that shops test for stress that may lead to failures? Frankly, the way that these things spin around at 100K+ RPM even going pretty light in the boost I'm amazed that this doesn't happen all the time.

Jeff, if it's possible to get some close up shots of the back of that wheel and shaft that would probably make for some great discussion.

[Vigo]

Well, you're the same person who said you thought 150k was normal too, so are you just lucky?

I would ask a rebuilder who didnt have anything to do with that build what would cause that. If i had very low mileage on the turbo i'd expect that to be warrantied. Just my .02

[cordes]

Well, you're the same person who said you thought 150k was normal too, so are you just lucky?

I would ask a rebuilder who didnt have anything to do with that build what would cause that. If i had very low mileage on the turbo i'd expect that to be warrantied. Just my .02

I stated that I was at the other end of the curve, but that I generally get 150K out of them. I didn't say that it was normal for everyone.

Is this a very low mileage turbo Jeff? I was under the assumption that it was low mileage on the rebuild. I could have misread that or worse, assumed.

[wallace]

That sealing ring area gets coked up pretty bad if the turbine was used. Depending on how it was cleaned that could have caused it to shear.

[jeff1234]

I called the turbo shop right away this morning to ensure that I got all of the parts back. I will take the best pictures I can at that time. Here is a little background on the turbo. It was a used turbo I bought from turbodave just in case I needed some spare parts. (Yes, I CAN see into the future, bwahahahaha) It looked to be all original and I saw no unusual wear on the shaft in the area of breakage at the time. The bearings were worn but not to the point of the compressor wheel touching down on the cover. What I saw when I held the broken part in my hand is similar to what you might see on a previously cracked bolt that has been broken off. For example an area on the broken part that that does not have the crystalline appearance of a hardened bolt or the sheared appearance of a lower grade one or may show an area of light rust. In this case I thought there was a possibility that a crack had started, it looked like there was an area that looked different. As you will see if I can make a decent picture the two parts had been wearing pretty hard against each other and had been doing so for about a half mile. (to get the car back to my house) The compressor was still turning somewhat. My theory is that there was an existing crack and when the technician torqued the nut the crack separated but not enough to give a reduction in feel at the torque wrench. At any rate there isn't much left that is good, the center section casting is wiped out in the sealing ring area. The backing plate is OK and some internal parts.
Jeff

[Vigo]

Oh well, nowhere to go but up from that! It still seems like you are closer to having fun now than you were a few months ago.

[cordes]

Oh well, nowhere to go but up from that! It still seems like you are closer to having fun now than you were a few months ago.

Not only that, but I bet he'll be a turbo rebuilding master in no time if he isn't already. Much respect Jeff.

[jeff1234]

Well I don't know about a rebuild master, I decided to bite the bullet and get a new turbo. I bought one of Cindy's hybrids with S4 compressor wheel and F1-49 turbine. It will make more power, the question is how much with a crx cal at 15 psi. Vigo, I have definite made some huge advances. I have also been taking care of things I had no time for when I was working. One example is moving the radiator cushion pockets over towards the alternator to make room for the intercooler pipes, which had to do some welding to fit them in. While waiting for the turbo I would like to get rid of the fuse able links. I need a fuse block with heavy input connections and 6 fused outputs. Any idea where I might find something like that?
Jeff

[Vigo]

Well, dodge started putting 'power distribution centers' (PDCs) in k-cars right around 1990 in some of them. Maybe none of them will fit an l-body perfectly but they should have all the basic circuits already present and labeled, you would just have to hook up to them. Depending on the effort you put in it may end up looking pretty much factory.

Strax22, while building his 95 turbo caravan with 89 engine electronics, converted to a PDC and got rid of all the fusible links. I dont think he did a write up on it per se but you can take a look at his build thread and see it: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...er-Turbo/page2

[cordes]

A lot of guys are just pulling power distribution centers out of the yard. I have one from a 94 lebaron in my Omni. They use the same terminals as the later fuse link cars for the relay terminals. They also share the same terminals style with the 1st gen neons. I need to look at a second gen neon box to see if those are the same too.

I know that DJ has pulled one of of a Ford and Jon Trotter has one from a Mirage in his GLHS. I've looked at the Ford boxes, but the wires are all the same and I can't find terminals for them. I wanted something color coded so that was out.

someone sent me a link to these, but I have yet to look into them. I have a feeling that they may go in the CSX when I do that over the next winter.

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au..._pdc_hwb60.pdf

[jeff1234]

Cordes, here is my solution to the fusable link problem. I bought the fuse block at Autozone and built a bracket from scrap metal to attach it to. I put a rubber vac hose cap on the stud to protect against accidental shorting out.Attachment 50549

[cordes]

Very nice work! That looks so much better than the rat's nest I have going on in my GLH conversion right now. Seriously, that's nice.

[jeff1234]

Hello Cordes. Update my turbo. I finally got tired of waiting for the turbo shop to contact me and called them. I was told an amazing story. The head turbo expert told me that the rear journal bearing oiling holes were plugged causing damage to the turbine shaft, breaking off the wheel. I call bs. First, the entire top end was off and clean. The oil was changed before start up and had a fresh K&N 5 micron filter. The related lines were flushed clean and the line itself was only a couple of years old and the rubber flexible link is in great condition. There was only 6 miles on the freshly rebuilt, by them, turbo. He claimed that the stuff plugging the journal was coked up oil which IMO could not happen in that short period of time. I think the shaft had a flaw and it cracked when they torqued the wheel nut. The crap in the bearing was probably created from the heat of the turbine running out of balance for that short time. I wonder if you or someone out there has a different idea about where this sludge might have come from. I must ensure I have checked everything before the new turbo goes in. The oil pan was cleaned last year when I had the motor apart. The only silicone I used was a small dab of ultra black on the cam end caps and any thing squeezed out was wiped clean.
Jeff

[4 l-bodies]

Yeah Jeff I would say BS to that too. No way in 6 miles of driving if you had any oil going through turbo.
54 trim with stage 1 wheel? Awfully big compressor wheel for a stock turbine wheel. Hope you don't have a new issue (surge). A lot of guys have ran a stage III turbine (F1-57 Turbonetics) with this wheel. A 46 trim wheel would have been enough to get your L-body into the 11's. Jessie Buhr's SFB GLHT you just saw at dragstrip at SDAC was running 114 MPH on less than 20 PSI and stock sized intercooler with 46 compressor wheel. Boost control issues prevented the car from dipping into the high 11's.
IMO, best turbo combos fairly closely match the turbine exducer diameter to the compressor inducer. For example, the 46 trim would be a 5049 and the 50 trim with stage II wheel would be a 5454 in common turbo nomenclature. A stock garrett would be 4349. The one you bought will be 5549. Like I said getting pretty big on the compressor side.
Todd

[jeff1234]

Todd, at Cindy's recommendation she said F1-49. I called her this morning (6-30-14) and she said the one I am getting is the stage 1. It has a 49 turbine and a 46 trim compressor wheel. Those two numbers are the closer match you were talking about. Will this give performance possibilities near Jesse's considering that I have +40's and an 18 psi chip for my custom cal?
Jeff

[4 l-bodies]

Well I don't know about a rebuild master, I decided to bite the bullet and get a new turbo. I bought one of Cindy's hybrids with S4 compressor wheel and F1-49 turbine. Jeff

Todd, at Cindy's recommendation she said F1-49. I called her this morning (6-30-14) and she said the one I am getting is the stage 1. It has a 49 turbine and a 46 trim compressor wheel. Those two numbers are the closer match you were talking about. Will this give performance possibilities near Jesse's considering that I have +40's and an 18 psi chip for my custom cal? Jeff

My mistake Jeff. I was confused by what you stated in above post. Thought the S4 was referring to a 54 trim compressor wheel. The 46 trim wheel will work well for your application. Sorry if I made you panic (lol).
Todd

[jeff1234]

Hahahahaahah :-)