Group Buy EIBACH Lowering Springs

[iTurbo]

I just picked up a set of original 2804 rears, when I get a chance I'll take a pic of the two side by side.

Awesome. I have also noticed there are more progressive coils on these new springs than the Eibach springs that I have installed on my Shelby Lancer back in '04. I do remember that there were six stacked (bound) coils on the rear and four bound coils on the front on my SL with it parked. I don't remember if they were 2801 or 2804 though.

This new set looks like it might be more like 7 bound coils in the rear and 5 in the front. I have not installed them yet though. A local friend also got in on this group buy and is installing them right now on a Spirit R/T....

[HSKR]

Well, these are supposed to be a 1.5" drop vs the original 1" drop.

[going4speed]

I hope my lancer is just saggy with the old springs...if not 1.5" is going to be LOW.

[GLHNSLHT2]

seems all the lancers sag in the a$$. I have yet to get under it and figure out why.

[iTurbo]

seems all the lancers sag in the a$$. I have yet to get under it and figure out why.

Ha, mine does too with the older Eibach spring set! Have a set of Rich Bryant's BC coilovers to rectify that situation.

[iTurbo]

Was wondering if anybody else is considering the use of an adjustable panhard bar from polybushings.com to recenter the rear axle after the additional lowering? Anybody install these springs and notice any rear axle offset problems?

[GLHNSLHT2]

I don't know if I'm even going to use them. Anyone have a set of original uncut 2804 fronts they want to sell???

[going4speed]

Thinking of that adjustable bar today and went looking for it on the site and got sidetracked

Was wondering if anybody else is considering the use of an adjustable panhard bar from polybushings.com to recenter the rear axle after the additional lowering? Anybody install these springs and notice any rear axle offset problems?

[GLHNSLHT2]

I agree. There appears to be about double the amount of progressive coils, at least the rears.

Can someone measure the wire diameter?

Busted out the calipers on every Eibach I have

FWDP2804 fronts .585"
FWDP2804 rears .481
Eibach2804 rears .519
Eibach2801 rears.498
Eibach2801 fronts .575


So the rears for the 2 sets of 2804's are different. The new ones use smaller diameter wire and more progressive coils. Putting a hand on each the new ones are much easier to move than the old ones. How that translates into the car sitting or handling I'm not sure. Least the rears are easy to swap around. The old ones are taller at rest as well as seen in the photo.



IMO the new ones probably should of just been left to the old specs. Anyone verify that the spring rates were going to be the same new vs. old? Not going to do me any good if they're as soft as my 2801's. I didn't get my un-installed set of 2801's down to see if they felt similar. Just measured the set installed on my daytona.

[HSKR]

Interesting that they went to a smaller wire. I wonder if the increased coils is to make up for smaller diameter wire on the spring rates?

[Shadowv4l]

I installed these yesterday and took the car for a spin. The car feels awesome and I can fling this thing around corners like a go kart. Now that being said I have koni yellow srt shocks in front and gas adjusts in the rear along with a strut bar and Johnnys rear bar. The car sits dead even front to back. The ride height is good for a daily driver and bumps in the road are barely felt. For my other csxt I plan on taking out a progressive coil and rolling fenders. The suspension in that car is the same except for the koni reds in the back so I don't think handling will suffer too much when I go lower.

[glhs727]

This is the reply from Eibach about the new design:

The final rate on the front and rear springs is exactly the same as the Eibach version. The discontinued Eibach kit was designed light years ago. We are now using material with a much higher tensile strength, so we can build a lighter spring with more travel. You have a superior kit.

[HSKR]

Front end back together with all new rubber isolators and mount/bearings. Also installed the polybushings lower rear spring isolators. Overall only about 1/2"-3/4" lower than before, but it had worn out isolators before. Hoping it will settle a little more.


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Its not sitting on level ground. Rear end is level side to side, front end has a 1/2" difference side to side.

[Reaper1]

This is the reply from Eibach about the new design:

The final rate on the front and rear springs is exactly the same as the Eibach version. The discontinued Eibach kit was designed light years ago. We are now using material with a much higher tensile strength, so we can build a lighter spring with more travel. You have a superior kit.

The material change certainly correlates to the different wire diameter and possibly the coil diameter (not confirmed yet). That is the one part of the equation that is hard to be able to input without knowing exact details of the material...which most manufacturers probably will be reluctant to give out. The vehicle dynamics book I have, plus most of the spring rate calculators out there will give you an arbitrary range for steel tensile strength. Since the last publication date there have been some nice jumps in metallurgy. The numbers still aren't too far off, but it seems you should aim on the higher side according to what they are saying. That seems legit.

Front end back together with all new rubber isolators and mount/bearings. Also installed the polybushings lower rear spring isolators. Overall only about 1/2"-3/4" lower than before, but it had worn out isolators before. Hoping it will settle a little more.


- - - Updated - - -

Its not sitting on level ground. Rear end is level side to side, front end has a 1/2" difference side to side.

With the rear not on level ground, how did you determine it was level? Also, did you measure the front of the car sitting the way it is, or on flat ground? Which side is higher in the front? Remember, you weren't in the car so unless you had somebody else sitting in it, or had mock-up weight that could make a difference.

Overall, I still think you all got a pretty decent deal!

[going4speed]

Overall, I still think you all got a pretty decent deal!

Agreed! Thanks Cindy!!

[HSKR]

With the rear not on level ground, how did you determine it was level? Also, did you measure the front of the car sitting the way it is, or on flat ground? Which side is higher in the front? Remember, you weren't in the car so unless you had somebody else sitting in it, or had mock-up weight that could make a difference.

Overall, I still think you all got a pretty decent deal!

I measured from the center of wheel to bottom of wheel well opening, granted not being on level ground front to rear could slightly effect it, but not that much. It's level side to side, just not front to rear. I would have the whole car up on the cement slab, but I couldn't get it pushed up there by myself. Passenger side was actually higher, so me sitting in car would have only made it worse.

[GLHNSLHT2]

did you make sure you put the right spring in the right side in the front? also does the car have a/c? And for the big question. If you draw a line from the LCA joint centerlines to the ball joint is that line level or pointing up? Also is the panhard bar in the rear suspension level at rest?

[HSKR]

Yes, I made sure I put the springs on the correct side. Double checked that before I installed them. yes the car has A/C. Will check the other things ince I get car running and on solid level ground.

[GLHNSLHT2]

thanks for checking. Just noticed my car will sit 1/2" or so lower in the front than yours because I never run the lower isolators on the front struts.

[HSKR]

I didn't have them on when the struts were on the Daytona, but decided to put them on with the Spirit. Figured it would help protect the coating on the springs from wearing and rusting out the springs. I will be moving back home to nebraska next spring and will be driving the car year round. Road salt is bad enough as it is, don't need to induce rust potention with metal to metal rubbing.