Putting a na in my Shelby z- get my wife off my back!

[bigjon69420]

I have a 87 Daytona Shelby z with 2.2 turbo 2. I spun a rod bearing on number one cyclinder, 4 cyclinder had broken ring landings. At last post I only had #4 piston out. Cyclinder walls have light scratches probably have to get it bored out. Don't know if crank can be polished or not. The bearing was paper thin where they came togather. Didn't get the main bearing caps off. I worked 82 hours last week so I haven't had time.
Could I get a na 2.5 or 2.2 and lm and just run the car with no turbo until I have money to rebuild the t2 right? How much work will be involved. I know I can get a 2.5 or 2.2 for dirt cheap 150.00. I just wonder if I could do this easily I know the fuel pressure will be way off I all ready have a external adjustable fuel pressure regulater. My wife is riding my butt about how I need to get rid of the car and get something that runs. I told her I love the car like I love her they are both beautiful but need work! Just wondering if my flywheel and motor mounts will bolt up. Any advice will be great! Unless I can find a good turbo 2.2 2.5 minus intake for cheap! I don't want to have to get rid of my baby. If I can put a non turbo in do paint and interior and work on building the 2.2 into a real performer as a winter project!

[bigjon69420]

Could I put a old carb motor in it? I assume a carb motor would have mechanical fuel pump so I think I could just hook fuel line to main fuel line?

[Force Fed Mopar]

You can run the turbo on the NA longblock for a while if you keep the boost down.

[iTurbo]

That's what I would do too...use the N/A or carb longblock and put it back together as a TII keeping the boost real low. It would probably be fine on 85 octane if you run the wastegate right off the intake manifold (very low boost). You could probably even unhook the wastegate rod and run *no* boost, but it would be even slower than a n/a or carb motor at that point.

[Vigo]

If you can get a good used 2.2 non turbo motor but not a good used 2.2 turbo motor, i would run the non turbo motor with low boost until you have all the monitoring equipment in place to crank it up a little.

I ran 16 psi on tbi pistons on the street and up to 20 on the track with a little race gas and never broke anything but my clutch and some charge plumbing. If there is NOTHING else wrong with the car (like.. what broke your ringlands and pounded out your bearings? Might have detonation issues!), the non-turbo bottom end will live at low boost.

[bigjon69420]

I love this site! Thanks everyone for the advice! Here's what I'm looking at now. I found a 2.2 turbo 1 from a Shelby charger-( it's a good price and is like 5 minutes from my house-- but I know crank flywheel pattern won't be the same as my 87? Can I use my new clutch and pressure plate on the 86s flywheel? Will my 87 starter have the right gear? I was just going to drop in with my intake and exhaust turbo from my 87 t2. Do I need to swap distributor?

- - - Updated - - -

My bad the 2.2 Shelby charger motor is a 85. Will the drive belts be the same? Run this possibly and build up the t2 over the winter.

[GLHS60]

Make sure you get the flywheel with the 1985 engine as it will probably 6 bolt vs 8 bolt if it's still original. As you already said, use your complete intake/exhaust off your 1987 along with the distributor as the 1985 is different and you should be ready to go. If the 1985 engine is still an 85 it will have a G head and will appreciate a bit more spark advance. Probably 14 deg vs 12 deg., there is a year casting near the #1 spark plug with two digits in a circle, eg 85 =1985. Along with the year casting, there is also a casting number, 1986 and newer are swirl and end with 782, that's what your 1987 originally had. Earlier G heads casting number ended with 287 or 445.

Thanks
Randy

Thanks
Randy

[Vigo]

Honestly, i would put your 782 head on the old block and retard the timing a few degrees (85 pistons + 782 head is slightly higher compression than stock) rather than keep the g-head and advance base timing. I think you will end up closer to factory timing that way and in my opinion you dont want to be throwing a bunch of tune variables into a car that already broke ringlands for reasons you dont know/understand yet.

If you pick up a 6-bolt crank motor MAKE SURE to get the flywheel bolts with it. They are NOT the same as 8-bolt crank bolts and they are hard to find used.

I ran 2 different 85 bottom ends in my 89 spirit with 782 heads on top and they did fine other than the fact that i broke them by not running any gauges to watch AFR or monitor knock. So let that be a warning! Get a wideband and preferably a calibration that flashes the CEL with knock. One of them broke at completely stock boost levels due to my o2 sensor wiring getting munched by the power steering pulley while i was racing a mustang. It's not about how much 'power' things can handle, it's about how LITTLE detonation they can withstand. Either a tbi or 85 turbo shortblock will hande plenty of power IF there is nothing going wrong with the car.

[bigjon69420]

I think I will just hook up the wastegate to vacum that way I don't boost past 7psi.

[iTurbo]

Just make sure you don't combine a a later 782 head *and* an early carb/TBI shortblock ('85 and earlier) *and* put all the TII stuff on it. While it might get you going for a bit, that would result in seriously higher compression and would probably not work well with much boost at all on pump gas.

Have I tried this setup? No. But the mismatch in parts would be seriously hard to tune for and would be a bandaid at best until you get the 'real' TII shortblock built back up. I have to say it's pretty cool parts for these cars are so darn interchangeable in a pinch though.

[crusty shadow]

at 7 psi you should not have any problems, that is about as mild as it gets boost wise with these cars.

[bigjon69420]

What boost does a standard 85 t1 reach?

[moparman76_69]

11 then after so many seconds it backs down to 7. Hooking a line straight from vacuum to the wastegate can should be 5-7

[Vigo]

Ive never seen a stock log motor hit 11 psi. Are you sure? I think you might be talking about later 2.5 T1s.

[Tbird232ci]

Ive never seen a stock log motor hit 11 psi. Are you sure? I think you might be talking about later 2.5 T1s.

My 87 SC does this with a stock LM in it.

[Vigo]

Thanks for the response! Now i know. I dont know if any of my log cars were ever 'right' and i never left one log long enough to find out.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

stock log motor should be 7-8 #'s
with the dc/mp lm and the bleed to go with it ,it should be 11-12

I said should be but I had a couple of 85 shelby lm's that were diff
one made 7-8 #'s and only reved to about 5800

the other made 11-12 , came from a car that had the bleed that I scooped with the vacume harness - it reved to 7200
BUT that lm had a stock chrysler part number , not a dc / mp part number that would have started with a "P"

I don't know if someone had swaped the board from a dc/mp lm into the stock case or what was going on with that - just that it went like hell

[cordes]

I always thought the stock TI log cars would boost to 9PSI and then back down to 7PSI. I know that the TII cars would give you more boost, but late on and I know that was time limited too.

[4 l-bodies]

I always thought the stock TI log cars would boost to 9PSI and then back down to 7PSI. I know that the TII cars would give you more boost, but late on and I know that was time limited too.

I'm with you on boost level of 85 turbos. I've owned my 85 GLHT since Memorial Day of 86 and 9 PSI to 7 PSI is what I remember. Granted it didn't have the stock logic module in it for long...
My 85 turbo NY'er is bone stock with 2.5" exhaust. So bone stock no boost gauge (lol), so I have no idea where boost level is. Maybe I'll take a ride with my DRB riding shotgun and report back.
Mark Christofferson's dad's SCCA solo II GLHT runs a 85 motor with ported +1mm g-head. Been running a mismatched MP GLHS stage II module (swirl) and +4° (16°) initial timing. Not stock, not even close to it, but car runs great and has held together for probably 15 years like this. Pump fuel, no detonation. Only running like 15-16 PSI, but being race car, it's always running in boost. Ate up stock turbos on a regular basis, but only because they were being overspun. Yes, overspun at 15 PSI due to top half of motor moving a lot of CFM. It took us a while to wrap our heads around that scenario.
I really think either running 85 shortblock with swirl head, or running 85 longblock with swirl calibration (bumping initial spark a few degrees) will work equally as well especially at low, low, boost levels. Either choice will work fine if boost is kept within reason.
Todd

[bigjon69420]

Ok I got a 2.2 turbo from a 85 Shelby charger, it is a t1 of corse, well I bolted on my 2pc intake and exhaust-turbo, installed my new honda civic racing radiator, and huge fmic. When I filled the block with water it was leaking out passenger side upper power steering motor mount bolt was broken on block. So I cleaned it with a wire brush and coated a bolt in liquid jb weld then used 2 layers of quick steel jbweld I over the broken off bump on block seems to be holding. I have heard that 85 has the best rods but not the best crank. My call done by boost button is set at 18 psi of boost with 24 shutoff. I think I'm going to run wastegate can to vacum until I get a mbc . My question should I play it safe or adjust boost up to 12# or so? I have the fuel and cal up to 24 but I don't want to destroy the motor. So just asking for what you would do in my situation. My intercooler is about 5.5 times larger then stock t2 intercooler with 2.75 inch piping. Had to reduce down to from ic the intercooler is 3.5. I hope the jb weld will hold. If not can I drill larger and re tap? I mean what's behind the bolt hole for upper power steering bolt? Just the wAter jacket? I put my distributer in the 85 block also. Someone suggested 14degree of timing for this motor? Thanks. Also my oil feed to turbo started to leak and my ss line set didn't work out I used 3/8 power steering hose I figured that would be fine. The new motor has 75psi oil pressure when started haven't let it run more then 30-45 seconds because of lack of cooling, so I guess we will see today if jb weld holds, and I can fill block with antifreeze! Also there's not a nipple off water pump so I just plugged my one coolant line to heater core. I plan on getting a t and plumbing into lower radiator hose. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Jon