What do you guys do to remove the races? I did them years ago and I cant remember how I did it. Thanks!
What do you guys do to remove the races? I did them years ago and I cant remember how I did it. Thanks!
Justin
84 Plymouth Voyager LE 2.5 Intercooled Turbo 5-spd - Only 84 Turbo Van!
89 Dodge Caravan ES 2.4 SRT-4 Intercooled Turbo (46 trim, OS Valves, CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, NPR IC) Built 31th trans
91 Dodge Shadow Convertible 2.5 Intercooled Turbo A555 5-spd
01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 3.8 supercharged! Only 5K miles....
01 Subaru Forester - Daily Driver
07 Yamaha FJR 1300 140+ HP on 2 wheels
85 Honda Nighthawk 450
94 Bobcat 763 Skidloader 2.2 Kubota Diesel
SV-SDAC Member
I'm way behind on my trans video. I use the specialty tool. It works really well and you won't tear up the shim on the driver's side using it. I know that some guys knock them out with a punch though.
Drivers side i knockmthem out with a punch slowly and carefully. Passenger side, I heat the extension housing up, then slam it on my work bench. Race usually comes most of the way out.
Thanks! I thought I used a punch in the past but I couldn't remember. I have the miller bearing puller for these trans and it works great. I looked up the race remover and its a little too pricey at this time on ebay. I am going to see if a friend at the trans shop has it. If not i'll use the puch for now and if the tool ever shows up on ebay for a resonable price ill pick it up.
Justin
84 Plymouth Voyager LE 2.5 Intercooled Turbo 5-spd - Only 84 Turbo Van!
89 Dodge Caravan ES 2.4 SRT-4 Intercooled Turbo (46 trim, OS Valves, CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, NPR IC) Built 31th trans
91 Dodge Shadow Convertible 2.5 Intercooled Turbo A555 5-spd
01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 3.8 supercharged! Only 5K miles....
01 Subaru Forester - Daily Driver
07 Yamaha FJR 1300 140+ HP on 2 wheels
85 Honda Nighthawk 450
94 Bobcat 763 Skidloader 2.2 Kubota Diesel
SV-SDAC Member
And if you are junking the race, apparently welding a few strips on the race helps. I have done that before and I can't remember why someone said to do that. The fun thing about tolerances is you never know how well something fits when you start out.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Like Brent said, if you have access to a welder weld a bead around the inside of the driver's side race. When the weld cools it will shrink making the race OD smaller and it will fall right out. The passenger side you can get at with a punch but I use a long bolt with the end ground flats and the threads ground off as it is softer than the race. This helps not damage it while you are measuring for the shim thickness and you have to punch it out again.
Thanks, If I cant get one locally or have issues getting it out ill take you up on the offer.
I have done the welding technique and it does work good. A few times I also tack welded a bolt across the race and used that to tap it out. I wanted to try to salvage the race since it does not appear to have much wear so I could grind down the outside slightly so I can use it to initially setup the preload with the new bearings. Then I can install the new race with the determined shims check the turning torque. I am trying to avoid removing the new race as much as possible without the correct tool.
I do like DJ's idea of using a bolt since it is softer. I am always nervous using a punch or object to knock it out from the back so I dont destroy the oil baffle.
Justin
84 Plymouth Voyager LE 2.5 Intercooled Turbo 5-spd - Only 84 Turbo Van!
89 Dodge Caravan ES 2.4 SRT-4 Intercooled Turbo (46 trim, OS Valves, CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, NPR IC) Built 31th trans
91 Dodge Shadow Convertible 2.5 Intercooled Turbo A555 5-spd
01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 3.8 supercharged! Only 5K miles....
01 Subaru Forester - Daily Driver
07 Yamaha FJR 1300 140+ HP on 2 wheels
85 Honda Nighthawk 450
94 Bobcat 763 Skidloader 2.2 Kubota Diesel
SV-SDAC Member
Pity that does not work for hub bearings.....
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=371009830049
If you were to want the tool
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
Another thing I seem to remember reading here is that its nice to have a spare race with the OD ground down a bit so you can slip it in and out for shim fitup. Keep these around as "tools."
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
This is the reason I dont want to destroy the race by welding it. I know it is not as good as having a new one but I also cannot see it having that much wear and the replacement is the same brand and number. I sometimes get funny looks when I talk about grinding the race so I can easily remove it to determing shim thickness. It wouldnt surprise me if most trans shops dont just throw in new bearings, reuse the old shim and as long as it doesnt have any end play call it good.
Justin
84 Plymouth Voyager LE 2.5 Intercooled Turbo 5-spd - Only 84 Turbo Van!
89 Dodge Caravan ES 2.4 SRT-4 Intercooled Turbo (46 trim, OS Valves, CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, NPR IC) Built 31th trans
91 Dodge Shadow Convertible 2.5 Intercooled Turbo A555 5-spd
01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 3.8 supercharged! Only 5K miles....
01 Subaru Forester - Daily Driver
07 Yamaha FJR 1300 140+ HP on 2 wheels
85 Honda Nighthawk 450
94 Bobcat 763 Skidloader 2.2 Kubota Diesel
SV-SDAC Member
That's why I chose not to buy it. I'm sure they are on ebay from time to time at a lower price. I figured that was high. I think I spent $40 shipped for the miller trans bearing puller is bought on ebay.
Justin
84 Plymouth Voyager LE 2.5 Intercooled Turbo 5-spd - Only 84 Turbo Van!
89 Dodge Caravan ES 2.4 SRT-4 Intercooled Turbo (46 trim, OS Valves, CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, NPR IC) Built 31th trans
91 Dodge Shadow Convertible 2.5 Intercooled Turbo A555 5-spd
01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 3.8 supercharged! Only 5K miles....
01 Subaru Forester - Daily Driver
07 Yamaha FJR 1300 140+ HP on 2 wheels
85 Honda Nighthawk 450
94 Bobcat 763 Skidloader 2.2 Kubota Diesel
SV-SDAC Member
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
It's not the wear on the cup, it's the dimension from the beveled face to the seat that could very easily be different between bearing cups. This is a very hard dimension to keep consistent in a manufacturing process and you are shimming to the 0.001". It is so easy to tap out a race on the shimmed side that I don't even see the point of cutting corners here. I could have one out in less than 20 seconds with a blindfold and socks on my hands.
After writing my first post I remembered I weld out both races at the start but the only really hard one to do otherwise is the pass side. Not sure why my mind was focused on the drv. side.