Big Single Build

[boostedsohc]

I think the mitsubishi just has different looking plugs but has both. Have another one sitting in storage.
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Buying a full gasket set doesn't mean you bought a TT gasket set since the dropdown menu has a million other options.

I did buy the SOHC set as I have all of the gaskets required for the rebuild. Anywho, the engine is getting assembled, I assembled a lot of stuff last night then I dropped a bolt into the abyss and now have to disassemble to get the bolt out.

[Sundance 6g72]

Sounds like typical progress haha

[boostedsohc]

Engine is just about built... The bolt was found, I had to remove the water pump as it was sitting under the water pump outlet. The last thing to do on this engine is to pick up a few items that were lost in the shuffle/move of the engine from home to home and machine shop. Then I can put the timing belt on and start working on the wiring of the engine.

This weekend was spent in the Wisconsin Dells checking out the AutoMotion car show and hanging out with the 3/S crew in Lake Delton. Good times and then we took the cars out to BFE and hit the curves and straights, fun times. I had a close call, but no one was hurt.

[boostedsohc]

Worked on some injector wiring last night. I am extending the harnesses a bit so I have a neater looking engine bay as the end result. So far so good, more to come.

[boostedsohc]

Not a whole lot going on lately in this build. Been doing a lot of wiring and re-wiring. I did manage to get the air to water intercooler and heat exchanger setup where I want it. The icebox gets mounted behind the passenger seat, water pump sits just behind the passenger seat. The trick was the water pump was higher than the icebox so it could never draw any water (DUH!). Moving the icebox solved that problem. The way the hose is currently run (least complicated) pushes the water through the core and then goes to the heat exchanger, fills up the heat exchanger and when it overfills, goes through the return hose back to the icebox. I wanted to run straight to the heat exchanger and then the return would go through the intercooler, but it doesn't provide a lot of space. I need a large amount of space for the turbo stuff and I want to avoid melting the hoses with the exhaust manifolds.

It's getting there, the pictures haven't been coming lately because of a lot going on and I keep forgetting to bring the camera out.

Well, I am going to update this thread with some pictures tonight. In the meantime, I can provide an update.

Timing belt is on and timed right on the money. The SOHC timing belt is SUPER EASY. The new cams made it slightly difficult to time on the front bank. I threw on as just a mock up of all the engine as it will sit, the crank pulley, power steering, and alternator.I still need to remove the timing covers off the old engine and add to the new engine since the old ones are in good shape. I will need to remove all of the accessories to put the timing covers on, then just add the accessories back in.

All of the injectors have resistors wired on Pin 1. I will be extending the injector harness once the engine goes in.

Some work has been accomplished in terms of the wiring. I removed the ABS computer wiring from the passenger side harness. I essentially have just the fuel pump, tail lights, and reverse lights left. So from approximately 80 wires down to 10 wires. I will need to work on the driver's side next and then the wiring for the body and all of the essentials should be wrapped up.

I installed the new AEM Honda Style FPR on the fuel rail with the adapter kit as well as the new fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

Well, it's been awhile since I wrote but I did get quite a bit accomplished on the car.

The old motor has all of the harnesses disconnected from the various components, I installed the new ABS Delete Kit courtesy of NG Raffles (Thanks 3SX!). I bled the brake lines but it appears the brake rotors are so badly rusted that the calipers can't hold the rotors so I can pull the axles out of the transmission, so on to Plan B. I removed the long tube headers and I left the cat back installed. I think I am going to keep it on the car since it looks better. I painted some more engine components and hopefully next weekend I will have the old engine out of the car and the new engine in the car.

The only real big ticket items left on the car is all fuel related. I will need to drain the gas tank out soon and clean it out before dropping in a fuel pump and new injectors as there appears to be lots of gunk in the tank.

[boostedsohc]

Cross drilled/slotted rotors and pads showed up yesterday. Waiting on reverse switch for the trans. Engine pull has been delayed a bit, will pull the CV Axles on Saturday and start cleaning up the wiring

[Ondonti]

Everything works as long as you don't install. I had terrible problems with my built motor (first motor build too) because of a few things that I missed. I had no idea what I was doing.

[boostedsohc]

Well let's see here. I got what I think is a lot, but most here would say otherwise, but alas, here's the rundown:

Front rotors are installed on the hub.

I screwed up a caliper, so I have two Centric calipers on the way. I wasted a lot of time trying to salvage the old calipers by cleaning them up and painting them, turns out, I probably should have scrapped them to begin with.

CV axles are pulled out of the transmission.

Engine will get pulled soon, just unbolt the motor mounts and lift it out, salvage some good parts off the old engine and then do some wiring and then drop the new engine in and wire it up.

[boostedsohc]

76 lb/hr injectors on the way as well as new 320 LPH fuel pump, fittings, lines, and some miscellaneous transmission bolts.

[boostedsohc]

Been awhile since I have updated:

Installed the 3SX inverted flare for the fuel lines:


Rough mock-up of heat exchanger and oil cooler with lines:



Mock up of thermostatic oil filter sandwich plate and lines:





Fuel pump and fuel hat assembled with hotwire relay ready to go:



New Fuel Filter and lines run:


Inverted Flare fitting for stock line to AN-6 and new line run for fuel filter:



Waiting on the last round of fittings to arrive.

Also Rock Auto sent another set of Powerstop front rotors and pads, I checked the warping and it still exists even on the new set:

http://1drv.ms/1zSC6Ya
http://1drv.ms/1qW2zDo

So I am sending all of the powerstop stuff back and getting my money back so I can rest assured that I get better rotors/pads.

[Sundance 6g72]

I just installed some powerstop rotors on a car and they seemed fine, sorry about your luck

What all is involved when installing a fuel pump in a 3s car? Im thinking of ordering the walbro 400lph off 3sx but im confused about the install. Do I really need their instal kit to instal the pump? Do I also need their hotwire kit or is that something I can do up my self?

[Ondonti]

Most 3/S members have problems doing things themselves so there is a good market for products that make things easy. This thread is not about easy hah!

What temperature does that oil housing open at?

[Sundance 6g72]

im not sure I understand what that oil thing is

[boostedsohc]

I just installed some powerstop rotors on a car and they seemed fine, sorry about your luck

What all is involved when installing a fuel pump in a 3s car? Im thinking of ordering the walbro 400lph off 3sx but im confused about the install. Do I really need their instal kit to instal the pump? Do I also need their hotwire kit or is that something I can do up my self?

I know, I have a powerstop kit on my BMW and I have had no issues. It's actually quite easy, just open the access door under the trunk floor, under the spare tire, unbolt the fuel feed line (carefully, or you will need to replace the line to the stock hardline) unbolt the fuel hat, pry it off the fuel tank, pull the whole assembly out and replace whatever you need, reinstall, maybe an hour job if you are unsure or being careful. The hotwire kit is literally a relay, some 8 gauge wire and some tapping and splicing into the original harness. You probably are better off buying the kit from Ninja Performance as you can't build the hotwire kit any cheaper than them unless you have free wire and a 12V Relay. You don't need the install kit if you know what you are doing.

Most 3/S members have problems doing things themselves so there is a good market for products that make things easy. This thread is not about easy hah!

What temperature does that oil housing open at?

I am not entirely sure, it's a mechanical thermostat. IIRC, I believe it will open around 180F, I would need to re-read the specs. Also, I just read that the minimum line size is AN-8. I have AN-6 lines run already, I believe it will be fine as I am not running a lot of pressure anyway.

im not sure I understand what that oil thing is

It's an oil filter sandwich plate with a thermostat in it. It is for running an external oil cooler. On the TT models, the housing has the thermostat and out and back lines for the cooler built in. On the NA, there isn't an oil cooler, so I had to add something since I am pushing it with a turbo.

Also I got the turbo oil drain hose built, fittings for the fuel rail came to finish that up, the oil cooler lines are finished, just need 2 more fittings to finish up the basics. This weekend is the goal for the engine pull. I have the clutch kit ready to go, transmission will come out as well and then cleanup of the transmission will ensue...

I did find a way to run the oil feed line to the turbo while also providing a method of installing the oil pressure sensor. I picked up a 1/8 to 1/8 Y adapter then went to Menards and picked up a 1/8 NPT straight brass section and installed it with some teflon into the oil filter housing. On one T, I have a 1/8 to AN-4, on the other T, I have the oil pressure sender installed.

[Ondonti]

I have never had a lot of luck getting my brass fittings to seal against oil using the white thread sealer goop.

[boostedsohc]

I have never had a lot of luck getting my brass fittings to seal against oil using the white thread sealer goop.

I wrapped a lot of teflon tape on the threads and threaded it in fairly far without stripping out the housing.

[boostedsohc]

Monday I got the radiator fans installed on the radiator, dropped the fuel pump assembly in place.

So two small things accomplished last night. Got my three fittings, finished up the fuel bulkhead to stock hard line run and installed the line and installed the 1/4NPT to -4AN adapter fitting into CHRA housing on the turbo. Pretty small I know, but more to come, still working on a solution for mounting the oil cooler and the bracket for the heat exchanger.

[Ondonti]

Kinda awesome to have threads on your OEM fuel lines. The dodges do NOT.

[boostedsohc]

Kinda awesome to have threads on your OEM fuel lines. The dodges do NOT.

Yea the only trick is not destroying the hardlines trying to take off the rusty fittings. I lucked out and was able to spray PB blaster then carefully loosen the fitting. Once I got the fitting off, I took a wire brush to the fitting end and cleaned up the threads. Then I used a special fitting from 3SX (which cost a lot, but saved a lot of time) that is an inverted flare fitting to AN-6. I also use the same fitting for the fuel filter banjo loop to the hardline that Mitsu decided to use. That saved me from having to cut off the end and install a -6AN fitting with tube sleeve and re-flare the hard line. While it cost a lot, it saved me a lot of time and I feel that having the stock hard lines in place saves me a helluva lot of time on this build as well.

One thing to keep in mind is the fuel setup is pretty extensive, it may be more than the stock lines can handle. I much rather have that be the case instead of making the lines now, then have problems (SS AN lines are not easy to build) and then have to replace the lines. If I run E85 and start to see corrosion issues with the stock lines, then I can upgrade to the Teflon SS braided lines from front to back.

[boostedsohc]

Power Steering cooler to replace stock:


Just fabricated some sort of bracket to mount this somewhere in the car.
Next thing I want to do is work on the T4 flange and the external wastegate fab work:

Fuel pump dropped in:

Turbo oil drain line made:

Turbo feed fitting installed in CHRA:

Turbo tag:

New fuel fitting for fuel rail:

Oil filter housing leveraging the area where the stock oil pressure sender was for oil pressure and turbo oil feed:

Radiator with fans dropped in and cleaned:

Space in between oil cooler and intercooler radiator:


To remove engine, remove bolts on: