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Thread: Code 52 Help

  1. #1
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    Code 52 Help

    1989 Dodge Shadow 2.5L Mitsu T1, 148K, A/T. I just replaced all four fuel injectors with brand new out of the box Mopar fuel injectors, I also installed a new coolant temp sensor. The engine already had Champion RN12YC's (not sure how many miles on them). FPR is still the original. I did pull the vacuum line on the FPR and it was not wet with fuel. I need help in diagnosing Trouble Code 52 pig rich. Code 22 popped up as well, but I have already replaced the coolant temp sensor and cleared that code, so only the 52 still exits.
    Cyl's 1,2, & 4 where carbonie (not a word), Cyl 3 was wet with fuel and thus the plug wasclean. Cyl 2's plug was crossed threaded by PO and was not threaded all the waydown in the head when I found it. I have already cleaned up the threads and Cyl 2's plug is seated correctly now. Magnecor wires.
    The temperature gauge is fluctuating around too. At idle, the Temp needle goes to one segment above center and the fan kicks on and cyclesagain just sitting parked and idling. If I go drive around the block, the powerseems sluggish and the temp gauge creeps up quickly to hot, radiator is full. After one laparound the block, the temp gauge is about 2 segments from overheat. Runs rough once I put in Park and the fan kicks on late, but does not cool all the way down to under the 1/2 way segment. The OE boost gauge boost's to 4-5lbs at WOT. Idle not in gear is around 900 rpms, in gear it drops 800 rpms and runs rough, definitely seems to be running on three cylinders. Maybe Cyl #3 injector is not getting a electrical signal and just fuel washing.
    After the motor warms to operating temps, it does begin to emit white smoke. Its light, not thick smoke. After driving around the block,the smoke is pretty cloudy and stays maybe for 3-5 minutes until it slowlydissipates, but still a light color I can see from the exhaust. I did rev theT/B butterfly from the engine and the smoke got a little more greyish.
    When I pulled the plugs Idid not see any coolant in the cylinders and only cylinder #3 was wet with fuel on the plug. Antifreeze looks fine in the radiator. Timing marks are spot on.
    Which direction of more diagnosing should I go?
    Last edited by MeandMyShadow; 02-25-2014 at 10:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    The code 52 should be pretty straight forward. You most likely need a new O2 sensor if the wiring is hooked up and good.

    http://www.minimopar.net/fault/code52.html

    I'm very concerned about the over heating and the white smoke. I think a leak down or compression test is in order.

  3. #3
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Ordered a new Bosch O2 now. Still doesn't explain why fuel injector for cyl #3 leaking and fuel washing? Is because the ecu is in limp mode? As far as the light smoke, I will do compression check / leak down to see what I find. What about a stuck valve / bad seal leaking oil or bad turbine compressor turbine seals leaking and burning oil?

  4. #4
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    It could be, but the smoke from oil isn't usually white.

  5. #5
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Try swapping the #3 injector to a different cylinder and see if the problem follows it. Code 52 means the ecu can't componsate for a pig rich condition. It probably runs rough due to being too rich. The ecu grounds the injectors to fire them. If the #3 is leaking, there is either a stray ground signal going to it some how or more likely a bad injector that's stuck open

  6. #6
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Have you checked the compression? Sounds like the head gasket needs to be replaced.

  7. #7
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Injectors are brand new from fwd. I pulled the rail and injectors and I did find on the #2 injector connector, the pin contact was shoved way down in the connector housing, thus leaving just one contact to connect with the injector. I spliced in two new connector housings replacing the bad connectors. I already installed the injectors and fuel rail. Installed a new O2 sensor. Replacing the timing belt, idler pulley, and water pump, and will finish that tomorrow and re-fire.

  8. #8
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    The injectors are brand new Mopar out of the box. I pulled the fuel rail and injectors and found on the #2 injector wire harness connector plug, the pin contact inside was shoved way down in the connector housing, thus leaving just one contact to connect with the two injector contact pins. I went and bought two new connectors w/pig tales from the DIY auto store and spliced in the new connectors that were suspect. So, the injectors and fuel rail are re-installed. I also installed a new O2 sensor per recommendation from Cordes, Post #2. Right now I am in the middle of replacing the timing belt, idler pulley, and water pump which will be finished tomorrow, then I will re-fire to see where I am at.

  9. #9
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Update, it was too cold to work outside in the garage the past couple days: Replaced the fuel injector harness with a different 5-pin harness. Ran to operating temp. Still same issue, removed spark #3 and fuel soaked. Ran the codes, still a 52. Cleared the codes. Next, pulled #3 fuel injector from the rail and swapped out with a different OE injector. Ran to op temp, shut off, pulled #3 plug, still fuel soaked. Ran the codes, still 52. Cleared the codes. I did notice each time warming up to operating temps that after 15 minutes of idle, with the temp needle at one segment before the half-way mark, the engine started surging between 1000-800 rpms. Back and forth, 800/1000, 800/1000, 800/1000. This surging lasted maybe a minute plus then would stop. After about 2-3 minutes, the surge would start again, but this time, the tach would dive way down to 400 and surge between 400-800 for about 20-30 seconds, then the tach would shoot up to a high idle of 1200 and settle back down at 900. Bad map sensor or TPS out of range? Main issue is to solve the #3 cyl fuel soaking. I will check the female connector side/frame side of fuel harness tomorrow to see if there is a short on one of the contacts and would tell me there is a wire bad that way.
    Last edited by MeandMyShadow; 03-10-2014 at 01:05 AM.

  10. #10
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Was prepping the engine to remove the head, pulled off the valve cover and found this. This is why #3 cylinder was not doing anything. Did the rockers just popout of their happy spot? I visually inspected all the valve train and all looks good. The valve stems down to the top of the valve guide looks normal, no deformation or bending of #3 I & E valves. Springs look fine, not compressed or broken. Valve locks and seats are there, so the valves did not drop. I pushed with my finger on the top of each valve stem to see if they were loose floating and they do not move. Lifters are not loose and visually look normal. Need to replace that broken/cracked lifter first, then can the two lifters be installed, pushed back in place without removing the cam or the cam needs to come off or just compress the lifter and slide each lifter back in back in place? I am leaning towards just pulling the head and for a light shave, valve grind, dip tank, then install new valve internals; ie locks, seals, etc..., new head gasket, bolts and put back together. I looked in spark plug hole #3 many times with a flashlight and saw no metal nothing, piston top looked fine, even ran the engine without the spark plug and had loads of pop and compression, so my guess is piston #3 should be fine not have any damage, wont know till I pull the head and inspect. But the question still is, why did the two #3 I & E roller rockers just pop off like that?
    Last edited by MeandMyShadow; 03-14-2014 at 12:48 PM.

  11. #11
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    It could be the hla's failed. Is the car all stock?

  12. #12
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Yes, stock.

  13. #13
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    It looks like the follower in the second picture is broken.

  14. #14
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    Re: Code 52 Help

    Yeah, looks that way.... Pulled the head for a refresh and new valve train internal parts. I will have the remaining rockers magnafluxed at the machine shop to know if any others are cracked.

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