Not starting Omni

[roachjuice]

Ok well I'm putting the clone back together and I think I've got the fuel pressure issue figured out. I had it sort of running on brake cleaner thru the intake. Now the dam thing won't even fire off anymore. Got fuel pressure. Got spark. Re timed it like 5 times. No clue what it is. Spent 3 hours messing with it today. Injectors not firing maybe? Hell I don't know. I just want it running.

[black86glhs]

Do you have an injector noid light you can plug into the injector connector and check for signal?

[roachjuice]

Do you have an injector noid light you can plug into the injector connector and check for signal?

I think I'm gonna try to swap out the injector harness today or tomorrow with a known good one. Maybe that's the problem. But no I don't have a noid light. I pulled all the plugs. 3 and 4 were wet. 1 and 2 were dry as can be. I pulled #1 and checked spark. So I'm getting spark there.

[black86glhs]

If you have another one, try it. That is why I rebuilt mine years ago.

[roachjuice]

I'm done. ---- this ----. Injectors aren't firing. Tried the other harness. Sprayed some gas in the throttle body. It fired up on the gas from the throttle body and died. Doesn't run on its own. All the grounds are good. So ---- this ----. Done.

[knownenemy]

Do you have a 2nd HEP laying around?
If not, you should probably invest in one.

Distributor hall effect pick-up (HEP)

The most important sensor in the system- without it the car doesn't run!
Supplies TDC piston & camshaft location data to ECU for proper ignition timing and injector firing.

This is where I would start.
They may be the most common issue and the most overlooked culprit.

[roachjuice]

Do you have a 2nd HEP laying around?
If not, you should probably invest in one.

Distributor hall effect pick-up (HEP)

The most important sensor in the system- without it the car doesn't run!
Supplies TDC piston & camshaft location data to ECU for proper ignition timing and injector firing.

This is where I would start.
They may be the most common issue and the most overlooked culprit.

ive already tried 2 of them. the one that was in the car was a known good one. the car ran when it was parked. it was parked because of a cracked ringland. i wouldnt see why the hep would let the car have spark and not have the injectors fire. when a hall effect goes it goes. ive never had this issue before. but for shits and giggles ill try it again.

[85boostbox]

Have you tried a different computer?

[black86glhs]

Have you tried a different computer?

Do you have an extra PM and LM to try?

[roachjuice]

Do you have an extra PM and LM to try?

Yes I do. But I guarantee you that it will not work. It's gotta be something I messed with when I took it all apart. I'll mess with it this week some more. These cars get so damn aggravating sometimes.

[black86glhs]

I understand. Between me screwing up something and the natural tendency for 80's Dodges to suddenly do odd things, I stopped messing with mine for a while.

[wallace]

Did you verify you have 12v at the injectors?

[Force Fed Mopar]

Injector ground at the fuel rail bolt?

Also, I've had the wires push out of the plug on the harness side. Also had a wire fray apart right at the spade terminal, had to cut the wire at the spade and crimp a butt connector onto the spade to fix it, as They are soldered from factory so I had no way of crimping the wire back to the spade itself.

[roachjuice]

Did you verify you have 12v at the injectors?

That's what I'm thinking is the issue.

[turismolover22]

Ok, so you tested spark, got that. ( we assume you have good compression) timing is on, starts with spray. So now we need fuel. Pressure was tested, so we have correct fuel pressure. No noid light tests, but have verified injectors are not working. If all this aboveis true, check your tps. Should provide a clean gradual sweep from .1 vts to 5, or thereabouts. If it is stuck at anything at or above 2.5 v, you will bever get the car to run. 2.5V is the voltage that the car switches from a start mode to a "clear-out" flooded mode, meaning it kills injector/fuel. Start at the beginning (fuel pump) then work your way to the end (injector)

[roachjuice]

Ok, so you tested spark, got that. ( we assume you have good compression) timing is on, starts with spray. So now we need fuel. Pressure was tested, so we have correct fuel pressure. No noid light tests, but have verified injectors are not working. If all this aboveis true, check your tps. Should provide a clean gradual sweep from .1 vts to 5, or thereabouts. If it is stuck at anything at or above 2.5 v, you will bever get the car to run. 2.5V is the voltage that the car switches from a start mode to a "clear-out" flooded mode, meaning it kills injector/fuel. Start at the beginning (fuel pump) then work your way to the end (injector)

---- i never thought of that. i'll check that too. the pumps are coming on. i can hear them loud and clear. i just KNOW the injectors arent firing.

- - - Updated - - -

Injector ground at the fuel rail bolt?

Also, I've had the wires push out of the plug on the harness side. Also had a wire fray apart right at the spade terminal, had to cut the wire at the spade and crimp a butt connector onto the spade to fix it, as They are soldered from factory so I had no way of crimping the wire back to the spade itself.

ive got a good ground. that was my first thought. ill recheck that "good" harness and check the wiring harness from the car.

[Force Fed Mopar]

That's a good tip on the TPS sensor, I didn't know that.

[roachjuice]

Injectors are getting fire. Still no start. Swapped out hep for brand new one. Spark. Fuel etc all check out. Wtf.

[85boostbox]

My crystal ball says........................ TIMING!!!!!!!!!

[roachjuice]

Car starts when gas or any other flammable is sprayed in the throttle body. I think your crystal ball is wrong.