Please tell me more about the process for disassembling/reassembling the revolution wheels. I have a set also that need some cleanup. Was afraid to take them apart.
Did you use new hardware?
Torque values for the hardware?
Torque pattern?
Balancing?
Thanks in advance.
Craig
SDAC Board Member
1985 GHLT
1986 GLHS 047
2005 SRT4 ACR
So mine were totally rusted.
I used pb blaster, an impact gun , and an allen wrench to loosen hardware.
Once all the hardware was off , i used a rubber mallet to separate the 3 sections.
I removed all gaskets and silicone.
Bead blasted centers, polished barrels n lips.
Powder coating is not recommended.
I used all new BBS hardware , it is slightly bigger then the original, so i drilled out the holes(m6 vs m8) used clear rvt silicone to seal centers , and applied between barrel and lip. Masking tape around barrels/lips to keep rtv in place.
Bolts applied in a star pattern , first torqued all to 10 , then start again and go to 20.
Allow rtv to dry, then pull off masking tape.
Thats it. I had someone else paint and polish them.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
hammerhead will be racing this weekend at road atlanta. come out and say hi!
Just got a wilwood big brake kit from Tce( what Mike put on blue car) , for the race car. They are amazing. Will be even better with some cooling ducts.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Plan is to strip car completely apart , rebuild everything back to make it a roller - all Suspension brakes etc.
Simultaneously going to strip all stock wiring and run a completely new harness,
Then start on engine n tranny.
The car came w tranny but no engine.
I found the original engine for this car ( freshly rebuilt in 1992)
Plan is stand alone engine management, individual coil packs , n see how we do.
I have 4 of the NOS stock engine and tranny's for when this one blows up on me.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Big brake kit - a couple people asked why bother , and what are the benefits when stock brakes are pretty good -
1- no race compound pads are available , only semi- metallic street pads.
2- these pads glaze and fade under consistent hard braking.
3- with the wilwood it takes longer to pull a wheel then to change pads.
4- brake bias is adjustable , my car had too much up front not enough in back.
5- the big brakes stop way better. Period.
Cost is high , relatively, with adaptor to bolt onto knuckles and with stainless lines it just under 2k.
But with the weight of the car , and in the case of the blue car , with so much power, it's nice to be able to out accelerate and out brake the other drivers.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
I will add to the "stock brake pad" statement, you can order pads in multiple different compounds from porterfield.
You can also get pads in different compounds from Carbotech. I have run both Porterfield and Carbotech
I couldn't find them , so that's good to know. I know I couldn't get hawks , but I remember something like I could get for the front but not back or vice versa. I could be totally wrong.
So maybe outside of track use , it's not necessary.
When my friend the scca gtl national champion drove the red car his only real complaint was brakes.
The difference between my old red car to the blue car was extreme.
You can't argue with bigger discs and calipers.
But again it depends on use.
I do know that stock I could flat spot front tires(fully lock the wheels) but have minimal rear wheel brake, and there is no bias adjustment.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Currently getting Fueltech Ft500 stand alone installed on my car. Down the road probably coil packs, but this system is supposed to work with the stock reluctors in the distributor. Will report back when it's done.Originally Posted by polopharm
Sounds good. Keep me posted on how it works. Are u able to diyno tune it?
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Totally agree on larger brakes, and only suggest the porterfield, and as Reaper mentioned Carbotech, as options to help close the gap a lil.
I installed the larger mini van front brakes on mine. Now the rears need a little more. Sure, the daytona or mini van front brakes work back there too but then you don't have a parking brake.
Great stuff for great cars! Poly engine mounts and bushings at: http://www.polybushings.com
I will say this, that in order to get the pads for our cars from Porterfield or Carbotech, I had to call. It wasn't something they advertised.
I do agree that larger brakes are almost always better. I was just throwing out options for stock...just in case.
Yes, it will be dyno tuned with numbers when i get it back.
for what its worth, i race the hammerhead with cheap semi metallics from carquest, and have no fading or glazing problems.
I don't race my car, but drive the car hard enough to have only gotten about 4000 miles out of the last set of tires. I've also yet to have any sort of problems with the brakes aside from the tendency to lock up the front if jabbed.
I was going to ask some of the guys what specific problems they were having or trying to overcome with the brake upgrades.
My first car would have brake fade , especially at a track with a long straight, then a 90" turn at the end.
So going from say 155 mph down to 65 , each lap.
I would over heat the brakes, burn the fluid etc.
I had a ball clencher moment when the fade + burnt fluid caught up to me and I was thankful for a long run out
Jacob's car has excellent cooling ducts to the brakes. So this helps a lot.
With the blue car I have no fade and can make my breaking distance much shorter and really stomp on the pads.
On a long straight I could dust all the Honda s2000 for example but would get out braked as they were going slower but braked much later and carried more speed thru the turns.
That is no longer the case.
When my friend the scca champ drove the red car his only complaint was the brakes- " inadequate for the handling ability " but realize that this is compared to modern race cars.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Help! Trying to identify my knuckles to mount the wilwood kit.
Here are mine from the race car
Held up next to it is the adaptor that was used on the blue car
Below is the correct knuckle.
This is the knuckle and brake kit from the blue car. I need help identifying which knuckle this is.
I was told that the blue car had 1989 daytona's
But I was also told that the ones on the race car were also from a Daytona of similar vintage.
(In the blue car they used the same knuckles front and rear)
Can anyone identify them?
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
That top pic looks like the one Johnny used. ( minivan? Gbody? )
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...TP-Targa/page5
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
