Factory Consulier/Mosler RACE cars

[jacob mosler]

My first car would have brake fade , especially at a track with a long straight, then a 90" turn at the end.
So going from say 155 mph down to 65 , each lap.
I would over heat the brakes, burn the fluid etc.
I had a ball clencher moment when the fade + burnt fluid caught up to me and I was thankful for a long run out

Jacob's car has excellent cooling ducts to the brakes. So this helps a lot.

With the blue car I have no fade and can make my breaking distance much shorter and really stomp on the pads.

On a long straight I could dust all the Honda s2000 for example but would get out braked as they were going slower but braked much later and carried more speed thru the turns.
That is no longer the case.

When my friend the scca champ drove the red car his only complaint was the brakes- " inadequate for the handling ability " but realize that this is compared to modern race cars.

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yeah..the HH doesnt go 155 either. i also wont put anything in any of my cars except motul 660. ive had a pedal drop to the floor at the end of strait. its definitely clenching, especially in a mt900...

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Help! Trying to identify my knuckles to mount the wilwood kit.
Here are mine from the race car

Held up next to it is the adaptor that was used on the blue car
Below is the correct knuckle.

This is the knuckle and brake kit from the blue car. I need help identifying which knuckle this is.
I was told that the blue car had 1989 daytona's
But I was also told that the ones on the race car were also from a Daytona of similar vintage.
(In the blue car they used the same knuckles front and rear)

Can anyone identify them?
Thanks in advance.

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yeah, looks like the standard consulier upright.

[GLHNSLHT2]

top pic is 89-90 Shelby Daytona, Lebaron GTC and 87-90 minivan with 15" wheels. They're 11" brakes with the molded in caliper bracket.

Bottom pic is 90 and older 10" front brake stuff with press in hubs.

[polopharm]

Thanks a lot for the help. Did you mean the bottom one 1990 and newer?

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[GLHNSLHT2]

No, 90 and older. 91+ got bolt in bearings. The 90 and older 10" brakes used press in bearings and bolt on calipers brackets.

The 90 and older 11" stuff used the bolt in bearings and molded caliper brackets.

Not sure how the willwood kits work per say but if that's the route I were looking for I'd look for a kit that bolts onto the 91+ spindles. The 91+ spindles locate the ball joint farther down for a better roll center/camber curve. They also use bolt in bearings and the bolt on caliper brackets. So they're the cats meow for geometry and ease to bolt stuff onto and maintenance when swapping bearings out if needed. Might also allow you more wheel selection as the big 5x114.3 bolt pattern hubs bolt right in.

[Reaper1]

What is that adapter bracket for (application wise, I know it's for a caliper! LOL)

[polopharm]

Thanks for the info. The adaptor brackets were made by TCE racing for this application.
Mike Wah had them made. Tce also put together the Willwood kit based on a Neon brake kit he sells.
I made the mistake of assuming all Consuliers had the same knuckles. (Matt's gtp had the correct knuckles for this kit also. )

I already bought the kit , so I think I will have to find some used knuckles. The kit is designed to use front knuckles on the rear as well.

As of now I am in the market for 2 sets of front used knuckles , pre- 90 , 10" rotor type.
Hit me up if anyone has some floating around
Thanks

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[polopharm]

Another quick question- after reading the post above again- is the bolt spacing for the caliper brackets the same on the 91 and newer stuff with the bolt on bearing vs the 90 and older with the press in bearing?
If spacing is the same then obviously the bolt on bearings are the way to go.

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[GLHNSLHT2]

yes, you could get small bolt pattern and large bolt pattern hubs for the 91+ stuff. Small bolt is 5x100 and larger is 5x114.3. Now the brake caliper brackets will not switch between old and new the bolt spacing on them is different.

[polopharm]

Turbo Mopar people come thru - Rick, T3 guy got me 4 of the correct knuckles
This will get project back on track.

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[polopharm]

Tranny pulled. All plumbing out. Dropped subframe.
Going to powder coat subframe.
Run a new wiring harness for entire car. Painless wiring kit.

Now that I have the knuckles can get big brake kit installed. After installing new bearings.




Going to open up the tranny, some of the race cars had straight cut gears and LSD , not sure yet on this one.
Meanwhile the original engine is being refreshed
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[Reaper1]

Steel or aluminum subframe?

[polopharm]

Steel subframe , aluminum suspension components, solid bearings not bushings.
Additional engine bracing.

I was told that they had some cracking in the aluminum subframes.

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[player1up]

What's the e-brake setup like on the wilwoods? or is there any provision for the e-brake?

[polopharm]

Zero provision for e brake. Because it's 4 front knuckles.

But if you want to have some form of e-brake, you could use the line lock/ brake bias adjuster and lock the front or rear wheels.

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[polopharm]

Have also just pulled out fuel cell and fuel system.
It had a giant Holley fuel pump at the tank and then a secondary walbro tank in line.

The fuel cell foam had turned into "dust" and the bladder had literally melted into a rubber pool.
Pictures to follow.

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[Johnny]

But if you want to have some form of e-brake, you could use the line lock/ brake bias adjuster and lock the front or rear wheels.

But doesn't a line lock take electricity to function...draining the battery?

[player1up]

Have also just pulled out fuel cell and fuel system.
It had a giant Holley fuel pump at the tank and then a secondary walbro tank in line.

The fuel cell foam had turned into "dust" and the bladder had literally melted into a rubber pool.
Pictures to follow.

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hmm, dual pumps, interesting...ugh, all that crap in the tank...

I'm interested in any other "race" mods that have been done to the engine and what kind of coilovers it has. I just found out that my block has a threaded plug in the rear galley port behind the flywheel ( yes, I've had the trans/engine apart...again ) and the turbos unleashed puck clutch still looks new after about 5k miles.

[Rottie]

The ones Karyn has one the vette are flip valves. Once it's switched to LOCK, it stays there till she switches it back (it takes electric to flip them, but not to hold). So a line-lock setup like that would work.

[Johnny]

This should work as a parking brake.....?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...63028/10002/-1

[jacob mosler]

hmm, dual pumps, interesting...ugh, all that crap in the tank...

I'm interested in any other "race" mods that have been done to the engine and what kind of coilovers it has. I just found out that my block has a threaded plug in the rear galley port behind the flywheel ( yes, I've had the trans/engine apart...again ) and the turbos unleashed puck clutch still looks new after about 5k miles.

holly reds are very common on the race cars. i can rebuild them if anyone needs!