I know most will say make a grainger valve, but saw this on Ebay and it looks pretty much plug and play without having to run around finding parts and cost will be about the same if you factor in my time. Any thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-AD...6c270e&vxp=mtr
Do you have a wideband to monitor your air fuel ratio? If I wanted a grainger valve, I would take the time to make one myself.
As long as it is a ball and spring type controller, and have a good aftermarket boost gauge, should be no problem. I have used a couple in the past.
edit: just quickly looked at ebay link you posted, looks like a bleed type, I would search for a ball and spring type, similar to a g valve's operation. I have used the voodoo ones before with no problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voodoo-MBC-B...e6430b&vxp=mtr
greg
G valve is like 7 bucks off McMaster car and the parts list is on every dodge site ever. Takes like 20 min to make
So what is the disadvantage of the bleed type controllers? It's still cheaper than the g-valve and requires no running around finding all the pieces, plus I can mount the adjustment knob inside the car so i don't have to stop and pop the hood to adjust it.
Bleed type have slower response than ball spring type.
I like these myself. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NXS-MANUAL-B...b9eeae&vxp=mtr
I've made a few of the grainger valve boost controllers (ball and spring). The parts are really cheap, but I would also suggest finding a pin vise set on Amazon or eBay to drill the tiny vent hole it needs.
I have 3 of those. One of them is on my 84 Laser. There is a ball and spring inside of the "T" piece. The part with the adjusting knob is a bleed.
These are actually Turbosmart of Austraila boost controllers.
I would prefer to make my own when it comes down to boost control. You can set it up in the car if you really want to. Although I would save up an extra $20-$30 and get a chip that's programmed for a little extra boost. You can roll your own cals for ~50-60 bucks if you keep things really cheap.
Yeah, the problem with my and tryign to make my own grainger valve is I live in the barracks and don't have a garage to do stuff in. Trying to drill the small hole would be a challenge with the hand held cordless drill I have. And buying the pre-made one FWD Performance sells pretty much eliminates it being a "cheap" option.Originally Posted by iTurbo
I went to the hobby store and bought small bits but realized they were too small to fit in my drill LoL then i went to Harbor Freight and bought a small kit that fit in my Dremel. Cutting in with the bit is super easy because of the material you're going into, just have to keep the bit somewhat strait to keep it from breaking..
The bits are to small but I put the barb fitting in the drill and spun it and held the drill bit with a pair of vice grips. Did this all with a hand held drill. I soldered the fittings in the end and done. Got the drill bits in harbor freight and they were metric but put a micrometer on them and a few of them were .22. Tools are always a good investment anyways. I made mine for a whole like 20 bucks. McMaster Carr is cheap.
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You will also need more than one bit which the kit had because they will break for sure
I'd run that ebay thing. Or if you don't want to mess with a drill, you can hammer a tee into the WG side of the valve instead of a 90. Then run one side to a bleed jet. That is what I did.
MinivanRider
I have the same thing, seems to work well. I quickly found out where the boost cutoff was with it tho!
How high? I was trying to set it to around 16-18 but remember I couldn't get anywhere close to it.. I'm sure I still have it in the shed..
It looked like I was just hitting 10psi or a hair over. I have an 84 which seems to be the most limited of all the models, I'm looking at the feasibility of doing a bleed to the map sensor to trick the ecu.
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