My setup is 3" short ram, no pcv line to intake & breather filter to atmosphere.
I've been doing some reading and I think a exhaust vacuum will be the best route for me. Since I can't do a factory style setup anymore, I'm hoping that a exhaust vacuum setup will fix my problem.
I'm thinking of going through a catch to keep oil out of the exhaust & off my wideband sensor.
Comments please.
Thanks Mahlon
I would place it after the Ow either way. Just the air will change the readings of the sensor.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
Agreed, both on the placement after the O2 and the use of a catch can, preferably stuffed with media like scotchbright pad or stainless steel wool, as it will pull most of the oil out before it gets into the exhaust.
Mike
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Agreed, both on the placement after the O2 and the use of a catch can, preferably stuffed with media like scotchbright pad or stainless steel wool, as it will pull most of the oil out before it gets into the exhaust.
Mike
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
After the engine o2 or wideband o2?
After the wideband.
I have run mine without a catch can with good luck, just didn't want to empty it.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
To get the most out of an exhaust evac kit, place the venturi in the longest straight run of pipe. This is usually the cat tunnel area. Insure the probe projects roughly 1/3 of the pipe I'd into the pipe. Most evac system failures are due to low velocity or siphoning from the boundry layer near the outside of the pipe.
I run an evac and pcv from the manifold, tee'd into a catch can. I want to add a Grainger to relieve VAC pressure in through the valve cover cap at a couple psi.
Of course you need an exhaust with no restriction for the exhaust evac to work.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
Ok well my exhaust is full mandrel bent 3" turbo back using the atp swingvalve, no cat but using a hushpower muffler in center of car. I will be changing muffler out for a resonator this summer.Originally Posted by contraption22
Does the size of the pipe matter? I have plains to use same setup on my other glh but I want to use 2.5" exhaust piping.
Actually the level of restriction isn't the make or break parameter, angle and gas velocity are what will generate the low pressure that makes it work, so a small pipe might work better, but nothing that would merit downsizing.
MOROSO sells a kit for V8s, you should be able to download the instructions and they should cover the angle and depth the "slash tube" needs to be welded in at.
Mike
Last edited by zin; 01-28-2014 at 02:19 PM.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
I bought the moroso crankcase kit for a V8 & I want to put it in time this week. would I need the check valve on the tube I put in exhaust or would it pull to much vacuum without?
The mechanical check valve is to prevent the crankcase from siphoning exhaust were the flow to be reversed.
It "should" be installed anywhere between the probe (tube), and the next intersection upstream i.e. air/oil separator or catch-can, etc.
Well I finally got this in and it seems like it's not working.
How did you check it?
You'll probably have to attach a vacuum gauge to be sure, one way or the other. This is due to the tube requiring high speed exhaust to create the low pressure/vacuum.
If the angle /placement isn't "right ",it won't be as effective, and in any case, it isn't likely to show much suction at idle.
Mike
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You'll probably have to attach a vacuum gauge to be sure, one way or the other. This is due to the tube requiring high speed exhaust to create the low pressure/vacuum.
If the angle /placement isn't "right ",it won't be as effective, and in any case, it isn't likely to show much suction at idle.
Mike
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
I have tried a few catch can setups that used vacuum to draw the air/oil out of the engine, but have never like the way they operated. What I finally settled on, which was the easiest method, was to just run a heater hose off the rear port, of the valve cover, and attach it to the catch can, which is mounted below the battery. The can has a small air filter, that breathes freely, mounted on top. Inside, the incoming air/oil is pushed down and, with the breather on top, drops the heavier oil, before exiting the filter.
It's very free flowing and you don't have to worry about oil getting back into you intake, like on a closed system.
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