Anyone running a Line Lock on a FWD?

[Blue Iroc R/T]

Is anyone running a Line Lock on a FWD car? We are going to be doing a Rear Drum to Disc conversion on Mark's 93 Daytona, 2.5 Turbo Auto. While we have the brake systm apart, we were talking about adding a Line Lock. At least with the drum brakes, the E-brake won't hold it. Does anyone make a kit for this? Thanks for any help.

[BadAssPerformance]

I run 2 on my Z, one on each rear line so that the corner brake bias is not messed up.

They are generic and fit any car, just need to connect the lines to either side then run 12V to them thru a switch. I have a pair of brand new spares that I've been meaning to put on my shadow but have not yet if you're interested...

[green IROC R/T]

I just use the parking brake on my Daytona. It holds just fine to do a good burnout. Are you using it on the launch too?

[Blue Iroc R/T]

I just use the parking brake on my Daytona. It holds just fine to do a good burnout. Are you using it on the launch too?

The E-brake with the rear drums just wouldn't hold it for a burn out. The rear brakes probably just needed to be snugged up a little more. We don't use the e-brake for launch, just brake torque it for a few quick seconds to about 2800 rpm.
This car doesn't do much drag racing anyway. Althought I'm sure it has ate some rice on the street. Just figured while we had all the lines loose, it would be a good time to add line lock. I haven't go a clue on how to go about hooking it up.
JT; How much do you want for the pair of solenoids shipped to 44203. Do you have any pics on the hook up?

Thanks

[BadAssPerformance]

I decided to tuck mine up right behind the torque boxes in front of the rear trailing arm mounts, but you can put them anywhere you want to run brake line to, obviously not wanting to add too much brake line.

Here is a pic of the drivers side one:



...and the passenger side one:



I just looked and the ones I have on the shelf are identical to the ones in the pictures (except shiny and new) and iir were the smallest size ones available. I bought them from Summit Racing for $40 each and will ship the pair to you for $90... I can take Paypal too.

[Bossman429]

Do you guys think this would be a good alternative to an E-brake in normal E-brake functions? Say for example, getting rid of the E-brake cables, and just running two line lok solenoinds. Would they stay locked with the ignition off? Probably just a matter of wiring it to stay on, but what about battery drain?
Any ideas?

[BadAssPerformance]

Absolutely not! They are solenoids that need to be energized to work and they will burn up if left on too long! Manufacturer suggests no longer than 1 minute.

[Blue Iroc R/T]

JT, sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I need to talk to Mark (my son), it's his money and his car. I haven't had a chance to talk to him lately. We seem to be running in opposite circles. If Summit has them, we are only 20 minuts away from summit. Thanks for the info and pics, it's a big help. I'll get back to you after I see Mark.

[BadAssPerformance]

No problem. Definitely save on shipping and go there if you're that close, you can check out the different brands too

The ones I got are Biondo Racing for $40 each, I beleive they also have Hurst and TCI and maybe another 1 or 2, but those are all closer to $100 each...

[Tony Hanna]

Any issues with using them on the front of an automatic car in combination with 2 step rev limiter? I was considering this at one point with both wired up on a single pushbutton switch. Just stage, hold the button, set the brake and floor it. All you'd have to do is release the button to launch.
That would have probably really helped with my reaction times.

[Tony Hanna]

Do you guys think this would be a good alternative to an E-brake in normal E-brake functions? Say for example, getting rid of the E-brake cables, and just running two line lok solenoinds. Would they stay locked with the ignition off? Probably just a matter of wiring it to stay on, but what about battery drain?
Any ideas?

I wouldn't try it with line lock solenoids for the reason JT mentioned.
If you're looking for something like that, they make a line lock that uses a
manually operated valve, so no electrical parts to burn up or drain your battery. You usually see those on wreckers and rollbacks. I think JC Whitney sells them. One of those would do fine for a parking brake, but without the cable operated e-brake system, if you have a hydraulic failure, you're screwed.

[BadAssPerformance]

Any issues with using them on the front of an automatic car in combination with 2 step rev limiter? I was considering this at one point with both wired up on a single pushbutton switch. Just stage, hold the button, set the brake and floor it. All you'd have to do is release the button to launch.
That would have probably really helped with my reaction times.

I've heard of 'quad' line-lock setups like that on automatic cars to brake torque against... dont really need the 2-step tho

[Tony Hanna]

The reason I was considering the rev limiter was that my daytona had a bad habbit of trying to drag itself through the beams regardless of how hard you were on the brakes. The only way to get around that was to launch at part throttle. I figured the rev limiter would be a good way to control that since I could adjust it to just below the point where the car was trying to drag itself.

[BadAssPerformance]

Gotcha...

if you pump the heck out of the brakes with full vacuum (before getting on the throttle) and then lock all 4 of them, it should hold pretty good tho.

[Tony Hanna]

I hear ya. The vacuum issue was probably the problem. I'd pre stage and then load the converter until the boost started to come up then ease off and on the brakes until I was staged. I'd say I was emptying the brake booster. I hated to stage first and then bring the boost up as it took so long I was always worried about getting the light before I was ready to launch.

[BadAssPerformance]

oh yeah... I'm not used to that taking time building boost thing with my 5-speeds

[altered7151]

I hear ya. The vacuum issue was probably the problem. I'd pre stage and then load the converter until the boost started to come up then ease off and on the brakes until I was staged. I'd say I was emptying the brake booster. I hated to stage first and then bring the boost up as it took so long I was always worried about getting the light before I was ready to launch.

I found in my daytona the trick was to creep into the lights first to give myself some time, roll into the second light and press as hard as I could on the brake, then rap the throttle once real quick. That would increase the rpm's a bit, but then when the throttle body snapped close it would really increase the vacuum in the booster. The brake pedal would usually drop another good inch or so. Never had a problem rolling through the lights after I found that little trick.

[Tony Hanna]

Good idea. I'll give that a try the next time I launch an auto car.

[turbovanman²]

You guys have sucky brakes, my 10 inch setup easily held me at 20 lbs of boost, my 11 inch don't even work too hard now. No creeping and its rock steady, I usually launch around 5-7 psi,

[Tony Hanna]

In my case it was stock '88 Daytona Pacifica brakes with approx 1/2 life unknown brand pads. Everything in the brake system seemed fine under normal driving with no pull to either side under braking and what felt like normal stopping distance. It just wouldn't hold on the line.