bad knock after ignition timing!

[Shawnethan]

So I figured I would check my ignition timing on my 89 daytona 2.5l with a t3 garrett. While loosening the 1/2 in bolt I accidentally tapped the distributor more advanced, I moved it back and unplugged the cts, already running and at temp. 3-4 seconds later it started to die and a nasty knock... from what I believe I saw was 14* advanced.. I turned it back slightly and still would knock and die when I unplugged the cts, it was set to 8* and still would knock and die. It's not a ping, its a knock.

I looked on the forum and saw someone with the a no idle while cts unplugged issue and it was solved by fuel pressure, I'm not sure if my vac lines had a small leak but I made sure every one was fitted nicely and thrn it stsrted idling with the cts unplugged.

I got excited and was thinking GREAT!! Hopefully it was a ping and a vac leak.. so I got it set to 12* and everything ready to go and as soon as I start off in first, right after 1300rpm, knock knock knock knock.... under load it knocks.. barely any if I rev slightly in nuetral. I'm running 91 like I have for months.. I'm gonna grab my stethascope tommorow and go more in depth.. any suggestions?

[cordes]

That's interesting. To be clear, what do you mean by under load? You are plugging the CTS back in before driving etc. correct?

[Shawnethan]

Yes, I plugged the cts back in, disconnected the negative for about 5 minutes, plugged it back in and it start right up and started driving. Btw I have not revved about 2.5k since it produced this knock. I am 10 minutes away from goin out with my stethascope, will post results after.

And thanks for the quick reply!

[Shawnethan]

okay so I'm out with my car right now scoping around with a stethoscope, everything sounds normal besides the power steering pump, I've been having problems with the power steering pump, it's been whining and wooshing every now. anyone else have an experience with a knocking or abnormal Noise With their power steering pump?

also I double checked the Ignition timing, got the motor up to running temperature, unplugged the cts, got a good view of the window in the transfer case (ic piping makes it kinda difficult), and it was at six degrees advanced, but it was also idling at 1100 to 1250 RPMs. is it normal to I'll that high during this test?

[cordes]

That RPM isn't out of the norm. I have never had any problems with the PS pump causing issues even though mine are generally loud as all get out.

Here is the procedure to reset the base idle.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...dle-Adjustment

[Shawnethan]

Awesome thank you, it idles around 2k when coasting in nuetral to a stop and gets quite annoying.. but still have that darn knocking.. trying to get a videos that you can hear it..

[Shawnethan]

here's a link to a video of the knocking. I'm in 3rd gear, barely on the throttle. hard to hear over exhaust but it is much louder in person!

http://youtu.be/joFjyDKEltA

[cordes]

Yeah, that sounds terrible. Is it possible that you got some bad gas? Advance type timing light with the knob adjusted incorrectly? Is there anything loose under the hood at all? Do you have a scanner that you could use to monitor knock?

[Shawnethan]

I just filled up with 91 octane from circle k like I usually do, qbout 25 miles after this occurred. I do have the advance adjustment and it is set to 0. Made sure of that one. And this started happening after I checked ignition timing so I dont know what I could've loosened that is still loose.. and lastly no I do not, where can I find one and what are they called? I would like to get my hands on some sort of device for reading my obd1

[cordes]

An OTC 2000 or 4000 will do the job. I think you need the pathfinder II cartridge to go with it. Although, there is some free stuff available these days if you're decent with computer wizardry.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...p?47905-MPScan

[Shawnethan]

hmmm... learning a whole new game with that scanner... i'm trying to do some research on it and slightly confused. Will i beable to change any values? example - idle speed, injector duration, ignition timing curve? Some say it's just a reader and logger and others say they have changed values in their SMEC. Anyone have one that can give me more detail?

[cordes]

Yeah, MP scan just acts as a logger. MPTune is what you use to make changes. If you have an Ostrich or a flashable SMEC you can burn a new cal from MPTune.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...?45009-MPTuner

[Shawnethan]

Oh ok thanks, btw a friend of mine suggested to go back to step 1 and pull the plugs, I pulled plug number four and it looked just fine, then pulled number one look just the same, then I pulled plug number 2 and its red. Can this be caused from Pre ignition?

[Shawnethan]

Ok so I changed the plugs and no change at all... went around the block and still knocking... CEL comes on about 30seconds after starting, but when I check for codes, nothing. Turn off engine and turn on accessories, wait for CEL to flash and it doesnt

[wallace]

Sounds like something's not right with the ECU. You should get a code when you cycle the key.

[cordes]

I would almost suspect a bad injector or bad spark to the cylinders with dramatically different plug coloration. Something could be going on with the valves there too I guess. Is it only the one plug with the discoloration? I would swap two of the injectors around and see if the problem moves.

If you did have a scanner you could see which cylinder the detonation is coming from.

[Shawnethan]

Hmmm... I replaced the SMEC not too long ago because the last one shorted out(forgot to disconnect battery till right before i dropped the motor :bandhead: ) and all 4 injectors are new too.. but with my lyck, you never know... I will swap injectors around and go aroynd the block, then pull the plugs.

Oh by the way! I dont think i've mentioned this before, it does not knock at idle, i can only hear it and like 20% throttle, after that my exhaust is so loud i can hear it so i'm not sure if it continues.. but while in nuetral, if i rev to 2k and hold it there, i can hear it knock.

And yes it was only plug #2 that was discolored, i pulled the third later last night and it was fine. I recently replaced the cap and rotor, and the wire ends look perfect

[cordes]

If you have the capability to do a compression or leakdown test I would give that a go. Anything to minimize the amount of testing you have to do with the engine knocking like that would be nice.

[Shawnethan]

Ok, so i ordered an OTC 4000, wont be getting it till mid next week though... But i will preform a compression test tonight, and possibly switching injectors if the compression is good.

I hate it when work goes by soo slow and you have so much to do afterwards but your exhausted and tired after everyday... :/

[Vigo]

With knocking that loud, you couldnt find anything at all on the motor with the stethoscope?