The engine is still pulling well over 6000. I have manually shifted it at 6500 where it seems to top out. Since I run a lower than stock convertor I have a nice power band from 3000 up and with the nitrous on it lowers that to 2500 or so. I just hate to spin that stock 2.5 over 6000 15 or 20 times a day as I usually thrash it that much on the way to and from work lol. It probably would not hurt it but I'm trying to cut down on the major repairs for a while and just drive the car.
Ok, i understand the thought behind it now. Although i feel like if you do get it to the track you should let it go to its ideal upshift rpm even if that's the only place you do it. If only for my own entertainment.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Yeah I guess I will just take it easy on it this week and let it all out at the track Friday. Worse thing that can happen is I get all winter to fix it back up.... again ha ha.
Crazy, and to think here in Tx i am waiting for summer to end so i can do more stuff outside!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Took the car to the track last Friday night. Disappointed that I only got 5 runs in and the best was 8.58 at 83.94 mph. I drove the car 135 miles one way to the track and it was 93 in the shade. I was not prepared for that kind of heat and not being allowed to run my a/c even in the pit area where we parked. It seems that before we got there all the newer model cars were running their a/c systems due to the heat and had watered down the staging lanes which caused a problem on the track. I planned to cap my drain and run mine but they said no a/c meant no a/c regardless. So before the next trip I will install a drain to my water to air system and just run ice for drag racing since my wta intercooler was useless. I ran my soft compound radials and traction was an issue. My best 60 ft time was 2.119 so I can get 2 or 3 tenths there with slicks I'm sure. Nothing broke which was good and even though its been 20 years my worst reaction time was .18. I was able to run my co-worker with the stroked 6.0 Camaro one time. His car without nitrous was faster than mine on the 35 shot. However it was his first time to a track so I took advantage of him and cut a .075 reaction (my best of the night) against his .625. He ran 8.08 at 89 mph against my 8.58 at 83.94 which resulted in a win for me by .04 seconds. Just wish I had bet a couple grand on the race like they do on street outlaws lol.
Ahh, so you DO understand how the heat can suck!!
Sucks about the no ac rule. That's a big hit to your setup. Im sure it will put down totally different numbers when you get to run it the way it was designed for.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Isn't that a pretty universal rule at the track?
Yeah I knew you could not run the a/c since the water would be a problem but I was counting on running it in the grass area where we parked and then cap it before I went to the staging lanes but it didn't work out. I will just use ice next year. Here is the video of the one run that I got in against the Camaro.
No ac ANYWHERE on the premises? Maybe it's a Texas thing (ie people wont even show up during the summer) but i've never heard that rule at our track.Isn't that a pretty universal rule at the track?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I think the officials had already had it with people still dripping water on the staging lanes from just shutting off their ac before they pulled up. I will be better prepared next year as I now know what to expect.
I get sidetracked a lot it seems. I've been working on a homemade geothermal heating/air conditioning system for my home so the Omni has just been getting driven to and from work every week. I have a few things though that I will be doing this winter to get the car into the 7's this coming year. I have the manual reverse valve body that's still in the blue 86 that will get transplanted to the 85. This will fix my shift point problems once and for all. I will also fix the wta intercooler system for track use and I'm going with an all aluminum radiator that will fit under the core support instead of behind it so I will have some more room under the hood. I'm going to procure a decent set of slicks and probably install my 1.22 transfer gears for a 3.50 final drive ratio instead of the 3.04 I'm running now just for drag racing the 1/8.
[IMG][/IMG]
Glad to hear you are still scheming on it. The gearing change should be a pretty big gain as long as it's hooked up with theoretical future slicks.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I run a Griffin dual pass rad with in and out on the same side and Under the cradle like you are planning on. I am assuming that rad is also dual pass, but curious as to make and thickness, as well as over-all dimensions?Originally Posted by rgl10
I get sidetracked a lot it seems. I've been working on a homemade geothermal heating/air conditioning system for my home so the Omni has just been getting driven to and from work every week. I have a few things though that I will be doing this winter to get the car into the 7's this coming year. I have the manual reverse valve body that's still in the blue 86 that will get transplanted to the 85. This will fix my shift point problems once and for all. I will also fix the wta intercooler system for track use and I'm going with an all aluminum radiator that will fit under the core support instead of behind it so I will have some more room under the hood. I'm going to procure a decent set of slicks and probably install my 1.22 transfer gears for a 3.50 final drive ratio instead of the 3.04 I'm running now just for drag racing the 1/8.
[IMG]
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
info please. feel free to start another thread in the lounge and paste the link here.
ive thought about doing this with used central air AC/heat pump stuff myself..... take an outdoor condenser and make a coolant jacket around the condenser core and put it in the basement. lots of buried PEX tubing and a circ pump etc.
Brian
The last geothermal system I designed was 30 tons of cooling, 36 vertical closed loop wells 450 ft deep, total flow 90 gpm.
I perfer geo in northern climates over southern prediminatly cooling areas of the county as the main energy / cost saving are on the heating side.
Its a generic scirocco type clone. Its about 13 inches tall, 22 inches wide and 2 1/2 inches thick with two cores. Since I have no condenser up front it should fit under the core support I hope.
That's about what I am doing. I have a 20,000 or so btu window unit that I'm installing a reversing valve on and then I will put a tank around what was originally the condenser and pump rv antifreeze around it for cooling/heating. I have an abandoned well right beside my house that I'm going to put a heat exchanger in for the coolant to run through. I've been taking pictures along so I might start a thread when I get caught up.
Wow! I will probably have some questions for you lol. This is just another small experimental project of mine much like some of the stuff Ive done to the Omni. I will have less than 500 dollars in the whole project so I won't be out much if it doesn't work at all. I'm hoping though for some cheap heat to supplement my pellet stove that normally heats my house. And if I get some a/c from it in the summer that will be a bonus.
Fill free to ask me anything you have questions on. I'm here to help.
Landon
i was gonna scour craigslist and other places for heat pump systems and a backhoe and get digging lol.
dig as deep as that scooper will go. i have a pretty high water table so i figured that tubing would get decent heat transfer. i mean i have a 18.5 ft well and very few and far between water issues so there is water in the ground.
Brian
Finally getting some time to post this stuff up, read away!
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...eothermal-heat
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