If you are willing to go to a smaller cross section width to a 205/55/15 there are a few choices (only 3 on Tire Rack), BUT they are pretty good choices, especially the Dunlop. They are all less than $100 each, too.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...55&diameter=15
I don't think the r888's are bad in the rain.
They are actually better than the ra1 in wet. Standing water the ra1 beats it simply because more tread.
Great all around tire with an r compound that can put the power down on our traction plagued torque monsters
Thanks for all the input guys! I finally got shipping confirmation from Summit that their supplier has sent the tires from Texas. Now Summit shows them as not available so I must have gotten the last two. They are Kumho Ecsta AST Tires 1845313. They should be fine on the rear I hope.
Good to know SirOriginally Posted by 168glhs1986
I've got a couple of buddies that run for cover when rain even threatens because of the R888's Will try and get them to stay out and play more now
Finally got around to making a vibration damper for the vct system. Like usual its just a few things I found laying around at the shop. It's pretty much smoothed out the operation of the phaser, good thing too since I'm out of room at that end of the engine.
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I dont understand how it works.
Also, did you cut your cam gear for a giant snapring out of a clutch drum?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
The small U clamp is part of a cable clamp. It is clamped right around the upright shaft about two inches below where the pneumatic cylinder goes through. The vibration dampening comes from the heavy iron spacer that I bolted to the exhaust hanger rubber insulator. When the engine is idling the upright shaft would vibrate about an eight of an inch back and forth really fast. One time it even caused the brass nut to spin off so I had to drill a hole all the way through it and the pneumatic cylinder rod to keep it from tuning. Then the whole rod and shaft would just spin around and around when the engine was idling so I figured it would eventually wear out the piston seals in the cylinder. I added a small spring to the end of the brass nut so now it could not turn but I still had the vibration. Now with the dampener hanging off the back of it stops that upright from being able to jiggle back and forth. No more vibration, kind of like a harmonic balancer on a crankshaft.
Again you have a good eye for something out of place. Yes that's a transmission snap ring on the cam gear. When the phaser switches to the retarded mode at high rpm the belt tension changes and it was causing the belt to walk over the edge of the cam gear a little bit. I didn't like that so I had one of my co-workers use the side of a big screw driver to run the belt over toward the valve cover while the engine was idling. Then I used an 1/8 inch blade on a cutoff tool, spun it up to about 10,000 rpm lol and held it to the aluminum gear and machined a nice groove into it. Like Sallah said "very dangerous" but it was also very fast. Then I just found the right sized snap ring and slid it on. Now the belt stays exactly in the same place while its running. Every problem needs a solution and I'm fixing them one at a time. It's starting to get more dependable now lol.
I have everything mounted on the rear now. I just need to tweak it a little but that can wait till I get started on the body work. A couple of people that have followed the car say it looks pretty wild going down the road. I got the license cover a little too dark so I will have to redo that right away.
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I wonder how many people look at the fans and say to themselves "WTFLOL I do like the tinted rear. Better make sure the rear lights work well at night!
Three pics of the 225/50R15 tires on the car now with 6.5 Shelby wheels.
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Ive been working on a new cal revision to better match the cam phaser as its effectively given me about an extra 1000 rpm in my powerband. I also have installed an exhaust system with a catalytic convertor and a fully baffled muffler. Since I didn't want all the heat back near my A/C condenser I made a turn out just in front of the left rear tire. Its so quiet that I can actually leave it running when I go through a drive thru and enjoy my ice cold A/C while Im waiting on my order.
Lookin good!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
That's pretty cool. Thanks for the update.
Tuck the bumpers and it will look even more sinister!
If I ever get done working on the drivetrain I am going to redo the body. I will try to do something with the bumpers then.
Here is a short video of my back pressure problems with the .48 housing.
Those are some interesting results to say the least.
2:1 drive pressure ratio isn't that far off from what I would have expected to see.
I would hesitate to lay blame just with the housing itself. Restrictions downstream of the turbine discharge affect the pressure needed before the turbine to hit the target boost before wastegate opens. What do you have for a swingvalve housing?Here is a short video of my back pressure problems with the .48 housing.
Personally, the opinion I've come to over years of watching other people is that the .48 housing itself is much less of a problem than the swingvalve housing right after it, and even when you address that there is something to be gained by clipping the 70s-style turbine wheel.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I built my own swing valve housing from a Garrett and Mitsubishi housing combined. Its deeper and more open inside than a stocker. About 10 inches down the 2.5 inch downpipe I have that home made exhaust dump. I'm fairly certain I have near zero back pressure after the turbine. This winter I am going to upgrade to the .63 housing and the TU exhaust manifold I bought during this last group buy. If those two additions don't drop the back pressure then I will just have to live with it I guess. [IMG][/IMG][IMG]
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Well, I think the stock style is just very limiting to begin with, even if you improve it. All of the people that have gone very fast in this community (mid 11s or better) have moved away from it completely.
This is an oversimplification but if you think about the turbo as requiring a pressure differential to do its work, if you have 25 psi in front of the turbine and 1 psi afterwards and you do something that causes that 1 psi to double to 2 psi, now you need *50* psi in front of the turbine to do the same work. Relatively tiny differences in post-turbine backpressure cause much larger changes in pre-turbine pressure.
I am not trying to talk you out of the turbine upgrade but I feel with a stock 'style' of turbine discharge and a 2.5" downpipe you are not really exploring the potential of the .48 housing before upgrading. Im sure that was never in your mission statement for this car, I'm just throwing it out there in case it would egg you on to further testing which benefits everyone else.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Once I go to the TU manifold I will have more room to work with. I will probably have to do the testing on the .63 housing though since I am going to swap them both at the same time. I have seen a few pics here of 3 inch elbows welded to a flange that bolts onto the turbine housing. Do you have a design that you like best?
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