It leaks a lot less than the drain hole in the muffler does. This type of throttle body does not even have a minimum air flow screw so it will go all the way shut. My last one had a screw so I just backed if off till the blade closed all the way. Neither one leaks enough to hear at all. I was concerned about burning the aluminum body or the bushings up but driving all last year even with a lot of nitrous passes didn't hurt the original one at all.
So when is the Track date!
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
The car is back on the road now. Made a few lower boost passes to check everything out. If felt very strong at 15 psi, probably as good as it was on 18 before. Ran the boost controller up for one higher boost pass and realized this turbo can really put it out. Let off of it when it bumped 30 psi. Seemed like a little too much for a bone stock bottom end 2.5 lol. Fortunately I have the timing curve take a big nose dive at 25 psi to lessen the chance of piston cracking spark knock. Settled for 18 for now. I have a new idea for the methanol injection system so I will start working on that in the next week or so. Then I will work on the new calibration.
Hopefully this fall, probably late August or sometime in September.Originally Posted by Shadow
So when is the Track date!
Just read this entire thread... wow! But I do have some questions on your methanol setup. Are you running straight meth or a meth/water mix? Obviously the TBI pump isn't designed for meth, how is it holding up? Any reason you used a injector instead of just a normal "spray nozzle" like most guys run? In your last post you said you were going to change your meth setup, can you tell us what the new plan is or do we have to wait? Lol
I run washer fluid, usually its about 28 to 30 percent methanol mostly for knock prevention as I'm running stock pistons. The first winter I parked the car the pump stuck from sitting in the washer fluid all winter without being ran. I used some penetrating oil on it and got it worked loose. I noticed the outside silver plating on the pump itself was turning black and coming off, not a good sign. I ran it all last summer that way with no problems. Probably ran 5 gallons of washer fluid through it. This past winter I put transmission fluid in the container with the pump and its still in the same shape it was last fall. However I'm going to try something new this year. The injector will stay as I found it atomizes the washer fluid quite well and lets me turn the spray on and off easily. The injector is from a flex fuel vehicle so methanol doesn't seem to hurt it. Since I have compressed air ran to the engine compartment for the variable cam timing actuator I think I will eliminate the pump altogether and use the 100 plus psi air pressure to push the fluid through the injector. Two birds with but one stone kinda thing.
So running water through the gasoline pump doesn't seem to have any adverse effects other then letting it sits for long periods of time? That's great news!
Just a thought on your air setup, why not ditch the compressor and just have the N20 bottle filled with C02 and use a regulator? It would be lighter, and I bet that 5lb bottle would last forever.
I will look into the C02 setup. I had not really thought about it since this is my daily driver and through the summer the actuator is used a lot so with the compressor I don't have to worry about running out of air.
Digging through some old paper work the other day and was surprised to find these time slips from 30 years ago. This was while the Omni was stock and still wearing the original Goodyear tires. I was 21 and this was my first trip to a drag strip. Its kind of funny that the fastest run of the day was with the drivers window down.
That's pretty cool, I still have a bunch of slips from when I spent every weekend at he drag strip in the mid 90s.
Post them up here the site, I'm sure others like myself would like to see them especially if they are from a turbo Mopar.
A brief update on the car so far. With the new turbo, manifold and down pipe the boost is totally different from the previous setup. Here's what I've noticed in the last two weeks of driving. The boost comes on sooner with the bigger turbo which I didn't expect at all. It builds 2-3 pounds at 2000 rpm. However it builds at a pretty linear rate compared to the old setup. With it boost would start after 2000 but hit 22 psi by 3000. The new setup takes till about 3500 or so to hit that same level. Feels good on the street and is more controllable too. Seems like its time to start working on the cal to take better advantage of the new setup. Also checked the boost activated voltage increase on the coil, injectors and fuel pump. Under load the voltage at the coil sometimes goes as low as 11.7 volts and I'm sure its that low or lower at the fuel pump. With the extra relay turned on voltage at the coil stays over 14 volts and actually goes up under load. Never misfires now even when it hit 30 psi boost. The steering gear works like a new one I'm happy to report. No leaks or stiff steering when cold. I think I will rebuild the one from the blue GLH and put in my upcoming Rampage project.
I'll get some pics of me next time I grab the envelope out of the garage. Sadly they are not from a turbo Mopar, they are from an 81 Honda Accord and a 78 Pontiac Grand Prix
Found a minor problem developing on the variable cam timing setup. The belt had stretched out a little I guess and was allowing the spring loaded belt tensioner to hit the head of one of the bolts on the front crank seal retainer. Grinding the bolt head to half thickness fixed the problem.
With all of the state of the art work you've accomplished I wouldn't be surprised if you discover a way to make this car fly like a plane.
Just FYI-
I discovered this back in 2000 and its covered under the Relaint section of The Dodge Garage. I may have to revampt the site if its that hard to find.
Hate seeing people reinvent they wheel, I thought this was a well known problem with several solutions. The Reliant ended up having a thermostat on the end of the head and for the Daytona I had a line that just fed coolant direct from the water pump. Both worked well.
Very cool work, I'm going to have to spend some time going through the thread getting caught up.
Working on clearing the decks.
^^^ yep. ^^^
I've also had great success running a line feeding the side of the head from the water pump. Been running that on the same cast piston 8v motor for at least the last 5-6 years with no knock or piston failures at the 350 or so whp level on spray.
how did you have it "feeding" from the water pump, was the coolant line tapped into the upper part of the waterpump housing?for the Daytona I had a line that just fed coolant direct from the water pump
yes. drill and tap for a fitting.
Nice to see someone else rebuild a rack. I haven't done it since the late 90's but neat to see none the less.Went ahead and installed the bumpers and inner tierod ends. Its important to note that you can damage the rack by pounding the locks down on the inner rod ends if you don't support the rack from the other side. I used a small adapter to hold the underside of the inner tierod end while I staked the joint. I also used some red Loctite just in case.
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
I had not done one for years either, it was a good refresher course for sure.
Currently I have been upgrading the cal since I have made so many changes to the engine setup. This is the timing map that I am working with right now. Its revision number 6. I changed it once a day last week driving it to work and back and once over the weekend. Now its pretty close. There is a slight dip in the advance curve around 3500 as the motor seems more prone to knock at that rpm under high boost. I've read that it happens on a lot of engines close to their max torque rpm. Feel free to comment if you see something that does not seem right. One thing I have not done is hit it with nitrous. That will be later on this week. I purposely dropped the timing very quickly after 2500 rpm and at high boost levels just for nitrous use. I might even have to drop it more than the 10 degrees its set to now from 4500 up.
Trying very hard to get this thing tuned in by the 4th so I can take it to the track and get an eighth mile time slip for reference purposes.
Did some more data logging to see just how every thing timing related was working out. Here are some different views of the same full throttle pass. Knock sensor didn't go over 1 volt the whole run which I consider pretty safe.
Here is the first graph with the highest knock at at about 5900 which I consider mostly to be noise from the motor. The pistons are pretty loose as it has a lot of mileage on it and if you notice the knock goes down through the run which I think is because the pistons expand as they are super heated from 21 psi boost and a 35 hp shot of nitrous lol. If it was a timing problem the knock signal would normally go up as the cylinder temperature did and as the engine was put under more load in the higher gears. However it goes down as you can see, hence my loose piston theory.
The second graph shows the transmission shifted itself to second at about 6200 rpm at 52 mph, a little high for my liking but the engine never quit pulling.
Next up is the 2-3 shift. 5700 at 83. A good 500 rpm lower than the first shift. This seems to be a common problem with the 3 speed transaxles. The first shift point is usually higher than the second shift. I like the 2-3 shift exactly where its at but I am going to work on lowering the rpm of the 1-2 shift probably by changing the 1-2 shift valve spring to a weaker one from a non turbo 2.2 carb motor.
I can understand wanting it to shift itself at a specific rpm but the 'easy' button is just to set it to shift itself lower than you want and then just manually shift at the track so you can pick your upshift rpms manually.
5700, even 6200 seem low considering you are retarding the cam timing at higher rpm. Is power dieing off that badly by those rpms? A dyno chart would help to determine that. Or even an accelerometer run graphed by rpm.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
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