Ouch. Oh well, you can always spend the rest of your time tuning a bigger nitrous shot.
I feel like your car has 11 second potential. That's at least in the ballpark of a built pump gas 400ci LS motor f-car. Confidence is lower but the possibility of winning definitely still exists.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
It could come down to car set-up and driver skill. I would LOVE to hear that you beat him!!
If that 408 doesn't have some sort of forced induction or spray, I think your buddy will be very upset with the amount of money and time he put in and the results. LS stroker motors are just not that impressive N/A. To much stroke to move around.
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Thanks for all the encouragement! Its 150 miles one way to the Greene Co. airport where the race will be held. As long as I don't break on the way or before I get at least one run in with him I will have fun win or lose. I am working on new cal right now to make the best use of my setup including a 75 shot of nitrous. Here is a drivers view of my data collection system lol.
What steering wheel is that?
One year only Chrysler Momo from a TC with the center pad removed.
Thanks. Now that you said it, I'm pretty sure that I must have asked you earlier in the thread. It looks great.Originally Posted by rgl10
I use the same Snap-On scanner for my car!! lolThanks for all the encouragement! Its 150 miles one way to the Greene Co. airport where the race will be held. As long as I don't break on the way or before I get at least one run in with him I will have fun win or lose. I am working on new cal right now to make the best use of my setup including a 75 shot of nitrous. Here is a drivers view of my data collection system lol.
It bolts right up with no adapter needed. The only thing I need to fix is the turn signal cancel dowels are not there. Just need to drill two small holes and put in two. The wheel does make it easier to see my dash and wideband too.
I have had several of these scanners over the years going all the way back to the late 80's when the came out. The update rate is slow but I compare several data capture movies to get a good idea of how my cal is tuned or what changes I need to make.
More testing has revealed a weakness in the Z1 asd relay circuit of my 89 wiring harness as I have long suspected. When under full boost and with the nitrous on I sometimes get an intermittent misfire. I'm certain its from spark blowout. It seems to only happen if my wideband shows the mixture going richer than 11 to 1. So I've tuned my cal to try to keep the wideband reading 11.5 or so under full boost. The nitrous however messes with my overall mixture since things like bottle pressure and rpm come into play and with the increased cylinder pressure it will still miss sometimes. I can pretty much eliminate it if I gap the plugs down to say 26 thousandths but it does noticeably cut down the power of the engine. So I ran a test with my MT2400 Vantage. It has a dual multimeter in it. I tested the voltage at the back of the alternator and at the coil at the same time. Idling I got 14.10 volts at the alternator and 12.85 at the coil positive terminal. 1.25 volts difference. When under load the alternator voltage stayed the same but the Z1 circuit drops to 12.0 volts at times. I'm guessing this is in part to wiring and connectors that are 25 plus years old and all the load that's on the circuit. The fuel pump goes from 45 psi to 70 under boost, the injector pw goes up adding to the draw and the coil draw also goes much higher as rpm goes up. A couple of volts really doesn't seem like much until you check the difference in coil output. I'm loosing over 15% of my coils maximum output (4000 volts?), that might be enough to fix my intermittent misfire problem. So I'm going to relay in the extra voltage directly from my alternator to the Z1 circuit at the coil to see if it makes any difference. I could hook it up to have the extra voltage all the time but its not needed during normal driving and would just make the coil run hotter. I will just add it to my boost switch on the intake and let it come on over 14 psi of boost and see what that does. If it works I will add a one way diode to the Z1 circuit at the asd relay so the power does not feed back into the ignition circuit when the "boost relay" is on. The side effect of this circuit mod will no doubt help the injectors and increase the fuel pump rpm under high load. More updates to come!
It is very satisfying to be validated!I've had the same suspicion for years, so both of the cars that I converted from fusible links to the PDC I separated the coil, fuel pump, O2, and injectors. Unfortunately I've not run either car, so I can't say for sure any difference, but it makes me feel better!
Can you give a simple diagram on how you plan to do the relay? I'm sure it's simple, but if this is something that would beneficial at all, I'd be interested in applying this to my car. I have a good fuse/relay block in place, so it should be relatively easy to implement. Thanks for providing this info, good stuff for sure!
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
My meager attempt at MS Paint. Everything in color is what I have added to an 89 harness. As you can see there is a pretty good load on the Z1 circuit from the factory. Adding voltage at the coil should take the strain off this circuit and boost everything on it for any of our cars. The diode is just a safety precaution in case the J1 20 gauge fusible link blows. If that happened then all the load from the J1 and Z1 circuits would be running through the relay I'm adding and the power wire to the coil. In other words, bad things could happen.
Winter upgrades in the works. Flange is for the divorced wastegate.
Any updates on the race?
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How did you cut that flange? Can you do more? Be careful with your response because i have at least a box worth of 2.25 SV housings.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Its supposed to be this Saturday but the weather is not looking good. Just have to wait and see if they call off the races or not.
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We have a band saw but even with that it was hard to cut. I could do a few for you though if you need them.How did you cut that flange? Can you do more? Be careful with your response because i have at least a box worth of 2.25 SV housings.
Interesting! PM incoming..
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Well the Omni and I made the 300 mile trip without incident. Ran 4 races against the Camaro and one against a little white two door Honda I think. Won the first and third race against the Camaro so I'm a happy camper! He had a lot more top end than I did but had a hard time getting taken off. I had my 2.60 final drive in so I couldn't hardly even spin my 225's after they got hot. It was a close race in the two that I beat him. I ran the entire eighth in the first two gears. My slowest run showed 94.5 on my gps, the best was 98.7 but I'm not sure how accurate that is. I let off of it as soon as I crossed the cones and it nose dived pretty good as I was in second gear. Hopefully this winters upgrades will help the top end out some.
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